Mrs Kipper says we have to get gas - how best to do it?

With a big boat why not add extra batteries, a big inverter and go electric?

We've been experimenting with a 3KW inverter and an induction hob this summer and are thinking about a small microwave, whilst keeping the gas

protem .

The Induction hob has been terrific when on shore power, but does put a hefty load on the inverter and batteries.

Potentially far safer than gas?


S.
 
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With a big boat why not add extra batteries, a big inverter and go electric?

We've been experimenting with a 3KW inverter and an induction hob this summer and are thinking about a small microwave, whilst keeping the gas

protem .

The Induction hob has been terrific when on shore power, but does put a hefty load on the inverter and batteries.

Potentially far safer than gas?


S.

Safer? Possibly.
But more reliable? I don't think so.
I've had batteries fail on me, but never a gas cooker.
 
With a big boat why not add extra batteries, a big inverter and go electric?

We've been experimenting with a 3KW inverter and an induction hob this summer and are thinking about a small microwave, whilst keeping the gas

protem .

The Induction hob has been terrific when on shore power, but does put a hefty load on the inverter and batteries.

Potentially far safer than gas?


S.

Personally I rate electric behind gas in terms of safety. That's going to need a colossal battery bank, monstrous cabling, a hefty inverter and a way of charging it all!
 
Safer? Possibly.
But more reliable? I don't think so.
I've had batteries fail on me, but never a gas cooker.

yes that is a fear. I am reluctant to remove the gas cooker.

However we are sold on the idea of the induction hob especially .
We've experimented at home and then bought a second for the boat to try this last summer.

This is the type that we have bought..... since been discontinued. Swan SIH101
It is rated up to 2.5kw so agreed it is hungry, but is not required to run on top whack for long and this one has been used on all settings with extremely good results especially on shore power.

I did leave the circuitry etc to the electrician. We have 4 x 110AH service batteries and wind and solar usually available, although I'm considering more solar. I have been advised to run the engine too whilst in use.

As the cabling is very short on our boat....( less than two feet from Inverter to battery bank, and a foot to the 240V ) and the inverter is 3KW then I'm hoping it's all been spec'd correctly.

I've not been interested in an electric oven...... I may still yet regret selling my Origo!

S.
 
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If they couldn't work out some way to remove the valve, jury-rig a bypass, take the cover off and jam it in the open position, etc etc, then they are numpties who had no business setting off across an ocean.

In any case, I would always fit a manual bypass valve so that such measures aren't necessary.



Indeed, yes. And wouldn't it be nice if "turning the gas off at the bottle" meant flicking a switch in the galley instead of lying down on the foredeck in the rain?

Pete

The additional complication of a bypass adds an awful lot of potential failure points.
Flicking a switch in the galley relies on electrical connections, and the solenoid valve is unlikely to be as secure as a screwed down needle valve.

I sometimes feel that if you can't trust the pipe from the gas locker to the tap in the galley, you probably don't want gas in the boat.
Or diesel, or any other fuel.
Keep it simple and check it often for damage and you are very unlikely to have a problem.


If I really wanted remote operation of the valve in the locker, I'd rig up a thing like a speedo cable to turn the valve by hand.
 
That's what I'm thinking. Copper pipe from the gas locker clipped in place with no nearby 12v cables (which can short and burn a hole in the copper in a few minutes) and a run of about 10 feet to a shut off valve in the galley. If there's a problem in the gas locker it will vent to open air, how is the pipe from the locker going to be breached? I've decided no to the solenoid. Now I have to look for a gas leak detector; always more stuff to get.
 
A couple of years ago since fitting my gas, but as I remember.......when running the pipe through with my pal who is a gas fitter, we found

it a very delicate affair to get the run we wanted as there were corners that were too tight and therefore there was a possibility of kinking

and threatening the integrity of the pipe wall. One kink, he said and it would all be throw away.

Measuring out to check the length of pipe needed, from locker to stove was one thing, but getting the several feet of pipe in place was far

more difficult than I imagined. So my advice is to stick to the easy route if possible.

One thing he emphasised was not to over tighten the fittings. He used a small leak detector to check things.

If you havn't done this before you'll need a pipe cutter for a clean edge, but don't be put off.... perhaps do a test connection on a scrap

piece before the actual job is done.

As long as it all tests o.k. there is not a lot to go wrong as long as all sensible advice is adhered to.

Good luck!

S
 
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