Morse cables

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julianmingham

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Hi all

I’m planning to replace the Morse gear/throttle control and both the gear and throttle cables on my Westerly Oceanlord and I’d like to get some advice on the cables. I assume that gear and throttle cables can be terminated in a number of different ways at each end dependent on type of control and type of engine ?

At the control end
I have a Whitlock pedestal and I’m planning to buy Lewmar p/n 89400137 as the control as this appears to be the same as the one already fitted. Lewmar information on this control specifies using Morse cables 33C or equivalent.

At the engine end
The engine is a Yanmar 4JH3E so I assume I just need cables suitably terminated ?

Can someone confirm my assumptions and suggest a supplier ? Can I give a supplier the information above and let them provide the correct cable (I assume I will need to provide the required length).

thanks
 
My Morse control is mounted beside the helmans' seat. I took a light cable down to a sprocket mounted on a shaft directly below. On thje other side of the shaft it had an adjustable ball joint lever which worked the gearbox and throttle. I think each installation would be unique?

Can you see anything here?
Yanmar 4JH3E throttle link morse - Google Search

How to replace Yanmar control cables on a boat


Morse Marine Controls and Accessories
 
I would recommend buying Teleflex TFXtreme 33c cables as they are much smoother to operate, and more flexible as well
Plenty of info on t’internet on how to measure the length needed.
 
We had the gear change cable fail. I replaced it with the throttle cable and devised a new throttle cable to get us home using 'string' and a series of blocks to route the string to the helm. The throttle needs not much tension to operate the gears need some real tension.

From memory morse cables come in standard lengths and as long as the cable is long enough - it can be as long as you want. However my guess is you pay for length, so buy one that replaces the one you remove. Take the old one out, pulling a mouse line through so as to make the new installation easy - and measure the old one. When you get your new cable - I'd take the old one with you and then get one to match. Good chandlers will stock a range of cables and lengths. I cannot help you with the latter - I bought ours in Tasmania.

Take some pictures of how the old one is assembled, from memory the variable is at the engine end. You need to get the 'lengths' right or the engine will be constantly racing (or not). I found the installation relatively easy, just a bit fiddly, and logical. The most 'difficult' part was retrieving the old cable, it had been cable tied to part of the wiring loom, and feeding the new one in.

Again from memory - attach the cable at the control end first, then feed through to the engine. If you do it the other way round you might find the cable is too short and you are trying to connect up in a very confined space. However the other cables might mean this his not possible :( . You have to hope there is some slack in the other cables to allow you to take the control off so you can connect up in the cockpit with plenty of space.

Jonathan
 
I think Morse 33C cables are pretty standard and just have threaded ends to the bowden cable. You just need to swap the end connectors from your old to the new.
 
We did ours last winter. The fiddliest part was attaching the new cables to the morse lever and then rebuilding the unit, the engine and gear box end were pretty straightforward. They come in fixed lengths and I don't believe they are supposed to be cut. Ideally go as short as you can get away with because any additional length, whilst acceptable, will increase friction. The difference between the old and new has been notable.

We used Multiflex Edge 33c control cables. Not cheap, but the quality is great and it's not something you'd want to go wrong, especially the throttle cable in a marina!
 
As already said: Fixed lengths, threaded rod at each end and the thread is UNF 10-32 (and not M5, which it looks like...)
 
Neeves said:
From memory morse cables come in standard lengths and as long as the cable is long enough - it can be as long as you want. However my guess is you pay for length, so buy one that replaces the one you remove.
Click to expand...
My throttle cable is at least a couple of feet too long, because I thought it safest to err on that side, and seems prone to slipping. It seems finally to have settled down, but the last several months my boat would motor along happily at 4 knots and if I wanted 6 knots I had to keep a foot or a toolbox on the throttle lever to hold it open. Not sure if it's possible to tighten the lever to add more friction to it?
 
The length should be engraved in the outer jacket at one end invariably at the inaccessible end however some came stamped in the middle
Very old or American sourced will be feet others metric 1/4 meters do not be tempted to go longer if not exstock delivery
Keeping old cable will ensure that new one doesn’t break
 
When my throttle cable broke, [at the most inconvenient time],I took the view that the gear cable was the same age and possibly at risk. So I bought 2 cables and taped one alongide the old gear cable ready for renewal. I checked that the length was OK and got 2 of the longer ones.
This will probably guarantee that it won't break but I'm ready for it now.
 
KompetentKrew said:
Not sure if it's possible to tighten the lever to add more friction to it?
Click to expand...
If it's a Teleflex TX700 then there's a grub screw on the control box that sets the friction.

Contemplating this as the gear shift on my 3YM30 is sticky going from reverse to neutral. Looking at the gearbox it looks like it's pushing almost straight through the pivot of the gear lever, so I think maybe the geometry has been messed up somehow has anyone seen that?
 
JBJag27 said:
so I think maybe the geometry has been messed up somehow has anyone seen that?
Click to expand...
I would guess that the gear shift lever is bolted onto its shaft?
Sounds like it needs to be set in neutral, disconnect the cable, move gear lever back to upright then adjust cable so it connects back up.
Does that make any sense ?
 
Rappey said:
I would guess that the gear shift lever is bolted onto its shaft?
Click to expand...
Seems to be and doesn't look like it's moved in a while to me.

Rappey said:
Sounds like it needs to be set in neutral, disconnect the cable, move gear lever back to upright then adjust cable so it connects back up.
Does that make any sense ?
Click to expand...
Yes, I think so, I might try that..
It'd be useful to know what the gear lever positions should look like...
 
JBJag27 said:
It'd be useful to know what the gear lever positions should look like...
Click to expand...
Usually the gearshift lever would be at 90 degrees to the cable connected to it when in neutral so it can move around 45 degrees either way.
The gear lever can have a few holes to connect to ,changing the amount of throw the lever gets when moving the cockpit control lever
 
Neeves said:
Is there a use for old cables? Not necessarily the cable but the wire inside.
Click to expand...
For cheaper cables yes as they have a nice solid stainless steel solid wire around 1.5mm
The more expensive cables have a steel cable inside wound with stainless strip making them very smooth but can't see a use for old ones yet.
 
Rappey said:
I would guess that the gear shift lever is bolted onto its shaft?
Sounds like it needs to be set in neutral, disconnect the cable, move gear lever back to upright then adjust cable so it connects back up.
Does that make any sense ?
Click to expand...
Not at 90’ to connection but at mid point of neutral in gear so below arc
Also check whether control should be in neutral or at gear slot as it will have a lost motion devise as you do not normally want the engine to increase speed before engaging gear
 
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