More raw water pump problems

Quandary

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Three years ago I had a drip from the raw water pump at the shaft behind the impeller (VP D1 30, Johnson type pump? but all smaller VP engines are similar) It had been caused by the front shaft water seal being displaced by a disintegrating impeller vane. I got advice here and without taking the shaft out of the the pump managed to relocate the front seal in its aperture and put it together. This year the seal has been leaking again, so I decided to replace both seals. I took the pump out, but my first problem is that I can not get the gear wheel off the shaft even using considerable force on a gear puller, as I understand it there is a large circlip between the gear and the pump body which needs to come out to let the shaft move forward?
So my questions are.
Should I put the puller in a vice to apply even more torque, should I heat the gear wheel or whack the shaft with a hammer, which is the safest way to separate it?
When I get it out and get at the back circlip and take it off, will the shaft with seals and bearings come out forward, there is another small circlip shown in front of the back bearing?
I notice that Keypart do not stock seals or bearings, just a replacement pump at £300+, The VP workshop manual which I have down loaded does not describe dismantling, only replacement but then that is where Volvo make their profits! however Marineparts Europe have one of their excellent exploded diagrams complete with part nos. and prices. It is suggested that replacing seals is not a good idea because there will be some wear on the shaft? These bearings seals etc. should be available from most bearing shops?
So is replacing seals a sensible course? I think it is because the engine is only 7 years (900hrs) old and the seal was damaged by the impeller vane rather than wear.
 
That is some list of pumps, there must be thousands of variants on that site, unfortunately my pump does not appear to be there.
Fairly sure I can source the seals (and bearings if needed) in Glasgow, safer than trying to match them on line perhaps, but so far I am still struggling to pull the drive gear off to get at the circlips to dismantle. The cheap puller I have is tending to get out of line when a lot of torque is applied so I am hoping to access a better one.
 
That is some list of pumps, there must be thousands of variants on that site, unfortunately my pump does not appear to be there.
Fairly sure I can source the seals (and bearings if needed) in Glasgow, safer than trying to match them on line perhaps, but so far I am still struggling to pull the drive gear off to get at the circlips to dismantle. The cheap puller I have is tending to get out of line when a lot of torque is applied so I am hoping to access a better one.

I got my drive gear off (2030) by resting it on the jaws of a vice so the shaft hung down, then tapping the top end sharply with a polythene headed hammer.
 
if you dicide to use a hammer try not to bend the shaft as you remove it
simply bearings should have bearings and seals at normal prices.
 
Gear is off, courtesy of Jackie Kay at Ardrishaig boatyard, next problem is finding a very long nosed pair of offset circlip pliers to get to the clip way down the aperture beside the shaft. Jackie is pessimistic that the leaking water suggests that the shaft might be worn. While the seals and bearings are available the shaft is not so it could still mean a replacement pump @ £350. If I was back in Ballymena I could get a replica shaft turned for about £50.
Thanks for the advice, I decided hammering it was too risky, I tried some heat but that did not work but a better gear puller did the trick.
 
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