More antics up the rigging (aka tall ship sailing in the Windies)

Bajansailor

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Further to that most interesting account 'Up the rigging' posted on Scuttlebutt yesterday by Stephenh re his sailing adventures on the tall ship 'Stavros Niarchos', I would just like to scribble a report about my first time sailing on a tall ship.

Stephen, I can absolutely relate to your thoughts as you climbed the rig - I have always been terrified of heights, and even just climbing a 12' ladder would reduce me to a nervous wreck.

But then one day almost 5 years ago I saw a little write up in Classic Boat magazine mentioning that Stavros Niarchos would be doing a few 10 day voyages out of St Lucia - this was her first winter in the Windies, and I think they were on a reconaissance mission.

So I signed up for a trip for my 40th birthday - sailing on a tall ship seemed like a good way to spend it, rather than in the pub!
Although I wasnt too sure about going up the rigging.... but I was reassured when they said it was not compulsory if you were not up to it.

Hopped on a puddle-jumper plane over to St Lucia, and arrived early on board, before the mob from the UK arrived later that evening. Had time to have a wanderabout - wondered how anybody could tell what rope was what - hundreds of them everywhere, all neatly coiled and hung on belaying pins - but no labels on them, and they all looked the same!

Stavros only has 6 full time crew, on a vessel a tad less than 500 GRT, and I wondered how could they get up to 48 newbies organised into efficient watches to sail this beast when it all appeared to be so fiendishly complicated?

Next morning, after a full works brekkie, happy hour (ha!), various safety talks and issuing of (full body) harnesses, we were invited to go 'up and over' on the foremast - ie up to the first platform, which is a little ways above the Course yardarm.
Ummm, so much for bravado earlier, having 2nd thoughts now.

It was only when two lads obviously much older than me jumped into the ratlines and cheerfully scurried like monkeys up to the platform ('no worries mate'!) that I decided I couldn't lose face - everyone else in my watch had got there - and down again. So I started off...... its true what everybody says about not looking down - concentrate on the job to hand. Get to the Jacobs Ladder - yikes, this is angled outboard slightly as you go up! But they generously have a safety strop for you to clip the harness line on to - so if you fall, its not toooo far......Heaved myself up on to the platform - and couldnt stand up, as my knees were knocking and legs were rather jellyish..... had a breather, then across to the other side, and back down. Not too sure which was worse, the upp or the down..... Did feel rather chuffed with myself though after reaching the main deck again.

We set off that evening, bound for Bequia, an overnight sail. Volunteers please from Blue Watch (ie us, who were on watch) to untie the gaskets on the yards, to allow the sails to 'hang in their gear' (ie just secured by the clewlines and buntlines, which are controlled from deck level). Am press-ganged by my watch-leader (a lovely young lady who moonlights as an air traffic controller at Swanwick when she is not off sailing on tall ships) to go up to the fore course and lend a hand. Ummm, OK.....

Found it easier going up the ratlines this time - and we didnt have to negotiate that treacherous Jacobs ladder! 'Stepping on' to the foot-ropes slung below the yard was interesting - for me it was more of a leap across the gap and hope for the best (while still clipped on of course!).
No worries!
Start edging my way out to the end, along this foot rope (a stout S/S wire cable). Trouble is, if someone heavy steps on to it by the mast, you get catapulted upwards..... an interesting sensation! It was pitch dark by then, and in many ways this made it easier - they had flood lights on, but the lights sort of diminished the apparent height (couldnt see the deck properly), hence knees not too wobbly..... Two of us cast off all the gaskets on that side of the yard, and made our way back to deck level, feeling very pleased.

Earlyish the next morning there was an opportunity to go a bit further up, to the lower topsail yard, to help furl the sail in a neat harbour stow after we arrived at Bequia. A bit higher than the platform. Martin out on the end, told to heave up the clew in sync along with the others on the yard who are rolling the sail up in a nice neat sausage. Sail is made of what appears to be bullet proof canvas, as this is the equivalent of their storm jib / trysail, hence it is rather heavy. And the 'sheets' are not ropes, but chains...... needed three of us all heaving away to get that sodding clew remotely near the yard. Respect Mon for those iron men who sailed in wooden ships round the Horn, and who would do this in a gale (or blizzard) with no safety harness.

Meanwhile, members of Red watch were tasked with tackling the higher up sails, like the t'gallant and royal. A couple of them were not keen at all - they tell their WL they are happy going as far as the course yard but thats it. WL points out to them (in his best sardonic p*ss take manner, for which his watch loved him dearly) that if they fall from the course yard (unlikely, as they will be clipped on), and are not clipped on, they will be just as dead as if they fall from the royals, so just get on with it! No answer to that really, so they did just 'get on' as instructed....

That evening, after a good run ashore earlier, including some local Hairoun beers in the Green Boley rum shack on the beach, there was a special meeting summoned for the whole crew in the Mess after dinner (which was in two sittings). Oooh dear, permanent crew are looking very grave. What major fock-ups have we done now? Lights out, and two birthday cakes, (complete with non-extinguishing candles! MCA would have a fit!) arrive, for this scribe and his WL (the ATC, who was celebrating her 29th).
An excellent way I reckon to spend a 40th (and 29th!) birthday!

Each climb aloft became easier after that run up to the 'lower top', and each time I managed to get a bit higher, until by the 2nd last day I found myself out on the t'gallant yard, sitting astride it (was told off later for this!) out on the end, about 100' up, perfectly happy, no wobbly knees, and enjoying the view. Was feeling especially chuffed with myself until the chap next to me commented that he had to make the most of the view, as they wouldnt let him come back next year, as he would be 'too old' then (ie over 70).... The upper age limit for semi coastal voyages has since been raised to 75, I suspect after many howls of protest......

I have been on a few more voyages since then, as one of the volunteer crew (Engineer's Assistant, aka Engineer's Hindrance - thats me alright!) and each time I have had an excellent holiday, and learnt so much.

If you have never been tall ship sailing, I can heartily commend it! For youngsters and oldies alike, from all walks of life and every conceivable background, it teaches bonding, and how to work effectively together as a team.
Management Consultants take note - you might be pleasantly surprised by the results if you send a group of trainees off on a tallship for a week (or even a long weekend), rather than getting them to shoot paint balls at each other in some muddy wood.

For further reference, have a look at the website of the Tall Ships Youth Trust (TSYT, they used to be the Sail Training Association) at www.tallships.org (they run the brigs Stavros Niarchos and Prince William), and the Jubilee Sailing Trust (JST) who operate the barques Lord Nelson and Tenacious at www.jst.org.uk
 
I can second that after a week on the Malcolm Miller some 10 years ago. My main claim to fame was being "encourage to go aloft" when seasick. Watch leader thought it would do me good. He revised his opinion when I was actually sick!

Fortunately, I had the presence of mind to shout the traditional warning "Below" just in time to catch his attention so that he looked up. A litre or so of assorted half digested meal hit him full in the face. I was watch hero for the rest of that week!
 
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