firstascent2002
Well-Known Member
Had to use this for the last ob fillup. Will it do any harm in the short term? Indeed, would it do any harm for long term use?
J
J
moped two stroke oil?
- Thread starter firstascent2002
- Start date
sailorman
Well-Known Member
VicS
Well-Known Member
In the short term in a small outboard no.
Its designed for air cooled engines which run hotter than water cooled outboards. It is a slightly higher viscosity I think you will find.
I'd be more concerned about using an outboard oil in an air cooled engine.
captainscott
Member
moped 2 stroke oil
I want to take my Avon out tomorrow, I have just found some 2 stroke motor bike oil in my store but it says for use up to 50 -1 can I use it in my Evinrude 4 which is 100-1 or will it clog everything up? I am being mean but dont want to spend 12 quid on outboard oil if this will do!
I want to take my Avon out tomorrow, I have just found some 2 stroke motor bike oil in my store but it says for use up to 50 -1 can I use it in my Evinrude 4 which is 100-1 or will it clog everything up? I am being mean but dont want to spend 12 quid on outboard oil if this will do!
sailorman
Well-Known Member
mix 100>1 & it will be ok but better engine longevity if used @ 50>1 or perhaps you have a "Special" additive for sale
yoda
Well-Known Member
Shouldn't do any harm, only (very minor) risk is a spark plug fouling up. That said I ran a Yamaha (100:1) on 50:1 fuel for ages without any problem.
Yoda
sailorman
Well-Known Member
yammi made by Tohatsu who recommend 50>1 in their own badged engines
monkfish24
Well-Known Member
Don't worry about it, I've run outboards on motorbike oil for years.
As said before, it's just slightly more viscous.
As said before, it's just slightly more viscous.
captainscott
Member
moped oil
Hi Sailor Man
Yes I have loads of additives for sale, in fact a shed full!
Nothing that says I can use old motor bike oil though.
Just a thought whilst we speak, as you are on Windermere, have you been up to Pull Wyke Bay at the Waterhead end the the Lake, there used to be a fantastic old converted lifeboat called LAURITA (London) which if it is still arround would be a great photo for your potfolio.
Buy you a pint in the Drunken Duck next time I visit my favourite place!
Hi Sailor Man
Yes I have loads of additives for sale, in fact a shed full!
Nothing that says I can use old motor bike oil though.
Just a thought whilst we speak, as you are on Windermere, have you been up to Pull Wyke Bay at the Waterhead end the the Lake, there used to be a fantastic old converted lifeboat called LAURITA (London) which if it is still arround would be a great photo for your potfolio.
Buy you a pint in the Drunken Duck next time I visit my favourite place!
sailorman
Well-Known Member
VicS
Well-Known Member
You should not be running your Evinrude on a 100:1 mix
In 1985 and for a few years following OMC did specify 100:1 but following a large number of failures and claims they reverted to 50:1 for all post 1964 engines* using premixed fuel.
The owners manual should have been altered and the 100:1 decals removed from the engine many years ago!
* Engines pre 1964 use 24:1 and pre 1959 20:1
captainscott
Member
moped 2 stroke oil
Tanks for your advice, I only bought the engine recently and the decal by the filler states 100 - 1, again thank you I will go with 50 - 1!
Tanks for your advice, I only bought the engine recently and the decal by the filler states 100 - 1, again thank you I will go with 50 - 1!
Avocet
Well-Known Member
My little Suzuki 2 horse says 100:1 in the manual but then says that if you're using the motor "commercially", use 50:1. I've always inferred, as a result, that 50:1 (a) won'tdo a 100:1 outboard any harm and (b) is actually good for it! That said, a commercially used one probably won't get laid up for long periods, so I suppose washing out and not leaving fuel in the tank would be more important.
DownWest
Well-Known Member
I have both air cooled and water cooled out boards. And use the oils recommended for both. i.e. bike oils for the air cooled and marine 2Ts for the water cooled. Does it matter? No idea, but cheaper to conform. Temps are quiet different in the engines. But 2Ts are suprisingly tolerent.
VicS
Well-Known Member
I think the problems that OMC encountered were twofold.
The larger engines being worked hard simply suffered from lack of lubrication.
Generally 100:1 leaves little oil behind for protection during storage resulting in many seizing up when not in use.
Personally I'd run any 100:1 motor on 50:1 if it will tolerate it. Any run on 100:1 should be fogged before storage to avoid the risk of seizure. (50:1 models as well for that matter!)
Lakesailor
Well-Known Member
If 50:1 causes problems with the kind of running you do, maybe your plugs are knackered or opening them a touch may help.
Of course there is nothing to stop you using 60:1 or 70:1 (just a bit more tricky to calculate). It's still better than 100:1
I used some 50:1 in my 4 stroke mower the other day (it was all I had) Ran very well.
Of course there is nothing to stop you using 60:1 or 70:1 (just a bit more tricky to calculate). It's still better than 100:1
I used some 50:1 in my 4 stroke mower the other day (it was all I had) Ran very well.
VicS
Well-Known Member
That reminds me of another thing. OMC have reduced all the recommended plug gaps from 40 thou to 30 thou but usual advice is to use which works best if you can detect any difference.
Also raises the issue of plug type. OMC recommended only Champion plugs. The crucial factor is that if the engine has CD ignition, rather than points, resistor plugs must not be used. The Champion plugs beginning with "Q" are special developed inductively suppressed plugs for the OMC CD system.
Dealers often supply NGK resistor plugs, identified by an "R" in the number. These are not suitable for use with OMC CD ignition. In some cases a suitable NGK plug with inductive suppression can be found. These have a "Z" in the number
No problems with points ignition but without model number I cannot tell what type of ignition system your engine has.
