Mooring Pendant

Stemar

Stemar

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My mooring pendant is chain, but now worn to the point where replacement before the next gale is imperative, but I can't get hold of the guy who normally does it for me, so DIY time. I'm guessing that the riser is OK - it's pretty big, but I will check. It comes up to a swivel then the buoy. The pendant is attached under the buoy.

I'm assuming I'll need a suitable shackle to attach to the riser above the swivel, and a length of chain, plus another shackle to make an eye at the boat end.

So, questions:

1. What size chain? Jissel's a 24 ft bilge keeler and it's a drying mooring. Not much use measuring the old one, it's too worn and rusty!

2. I'm pretty sure the old chain was black iron, but not sure I can lay my hands on that at short notice. What disadvantage is there in using galvanised anchor chain and shackles?

3. Anything else I need to be thinking about?

Thanks
 
Portsmouth harbour moorings use 10mm anchor chain.
At 6 months they reverse it and change after a year.
 
Definitely use galvanised unless you want rust stains on the deck.
6mm chain will hold a 24ft boat but 8mm will last longer and 10mm even longer if it will fit your bow roller. The shackles are the weak point as you cannot fit large shackles to a small chain unless it has an oversize end link. 10mm with the biggest shackles that will fit is the way to go for peace of mind.
 
andsarkit said:
Definitely use galvanised unless you want rust stains on the deck.
6mm chain will hold a 24ft boat but 8mm will last longer and 10mm even longer if it will fit your bow roller. The shackles are the weak point as you cannot fit large shackles to a small chain unless it has an oversize end link. 10mm with the biggest shackles that will fit is the way to go for peace of mind.
Click to expand...

Or even stainless chain for the over roller and deck part 6mm might have the strength in theory but shallow water waves can create shock loads that might overcome that.

edited to correct dumb spellchecker.
 
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For a mooring, you can use long link chain without losing strength. Anchor chain is shoirt link to give more weight. Long link accommodates shackles more easily.
 
Thanks everyone. Off shortly to put some spare 6mm anchor chain on for now. I'll measure up and work out what I need so I can order it for the next combination of neap tide and decent weather, but today's bodge should see me through the forecast gales.
 
So, the 10mm chain has been replaced with doubled 6mm anchor chain, which will hold it for the next month or so until I can do it all properly.

Now, what to use. I've had an idea bouncing around the brain that I'm finding my 10KG anchor to be a heavy old thing to take from its chocks and get onto the bow roller at arm's length because of the forestay and pulpit, so I've wondered about having a pair of rope mooring pendants, to take to the Samson post via the fairleads, leaving the bow roller free so the anchor can stay on it.

I'm thinking of using 18mm polysteel - way stronger than I need at a breaking strain of over 6 tonnes, but that allows for a bit of chafe, eye splices for the top, a bit of pipe to prevent chafe on the fairleads and hard eyes on the bottom. Advantages of the polysteel are that it floats, but is UV resistant.

Why is this a good idea, or a bad one? Is 18mm too small, the right size, or too big for a 24 foot boat weighing about 3 tonnes?

If a good one, what's the best hose to protect from abrasion? Clear PVC, reinforced PVC, green reinforced or black spiral hose? It'll need to go on before I splice it, so no chance of changing my mind!

Thanks again
 
Leather is liked by traditional boats as an anti chaff .. Any pvc hose is quite slippery, maybe the thicker walled the longer it will last?
 
Stemar said:
So, the 10mm chain has been replaced with doubled 6mm anchor chain, which will hold it for the next month or so until I can do it all properly.

Now, what to use. I've had an idea bouncing around the brain that I'm finding my 10KG anchor to be a heavy old thing to take from its chocks and get onto the bow roller at arm's length because of the forestay and pulpit, so I've wondered about having a pair of rope mooring pendants, to take to the Samson post via the fairleads, leaving the bow roller free so the anchor can stay on it.

I'm thinking of using 18mm polysteel - way stronger than I need at a breaking strain of over 6 tonnes, but that allows for a bit of chafe, eye splices for the top, a bit of pipe to prevent chafe on the fairleads and hard eyes on the bottom. Advantages of the polysteel are that it floats, but is UV resistant.

Why is this a good idea, or a bad one? Is 18mm too small, the right size, or too big for a 24 foot boat weighing about 3 tonnes?

If a good one, what's the best hose to protect from abrasion? Clear PVC, reinforced PVC, green reinforced or black spiral hose? It'll need to go on before I splice it, so no chance of changing my mind!

Thanks again
Click to expand...
Having just noticed this thread, I'm pleased to note you didn't procrastinate, and fixed it pdq.

I use 18mm polysteel myself - as did our friend 'Sarabande' on stuff I loaned him over a West Country winter - and it works fine. It's plenty strong enough provided proper attention is paid to countering any potential for chafe..... and cheap enough. More and more boats are using it for 'risers', as it doesn't corrode away.

As for anti-chafe gear, I have used 'time-expired' fire hose for some years, with securing cords tied into punched holes. It's cheap as chips and easily replaceable. Send me a PM with details and I'll post you some.
 
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