Mercruiser sterndrive painting question

[jacksparrow11]

I pulled the Bravo 3 leg off to sevice and while im waiting for a oil seal to arrive I would like to spruce it up with a repaint, Black and shinny, would it be ok to use hammerite smooth or do i have to get some special paint. I keep my boat on a trailer not on the water it may make a diference.

cheers for any info

 

[stamfordian]

there,s no east answer... but the hard wa yis to completly remove the old paint,etch prime it ,then top coat pray it with outdrive spray at 17 quid plus a can slomber it with anti foul and forget it!!
cherrs /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

 

[Elessar]

Hammerite smooth works fine but you must use hammerite special metals primer first on any bare metal. It's an etch primer and necessary for painting aluminium.

 

[jacksparrow11]

Cheers elessar I was hoping someone was gona say that it was ok to use.
stamfordian had me worried as i have already started to rub some of the old flacky paint down to bare metal.
there is no pitting in the metal only bit of bubbly paint here and there.

cheers

 

[capnjack]

It's easier than you think. I did my little sportsboat Alpha 1 leg with the proprietory Mercruiser paints in a can, dead easy, no fuss. If she's on a trailer, no anti foul etc.

Buy some Mercruiser or OMC Zinc primer in a can, it's usually green and looks a bit manky and some Mercruiser Black, rub down with wet and dry fine, mask off and spray away, polish afterwards, makes a god job, no fuss. Allow a few days to harden though, you may get a little misting from overspray but a good polish or some TCut will sort it out.

Good luck, hope this helps.

Cap'n Jack

 

[nonitoo]

On a slightly different tack, how easy was it to remove the leg ?

I will have to do my bellows next winter (2 years old) and am wondering if it is a DIY job.

I presume the Bravo III service manual (when I buy one) will give the procedure.

Any information gratefully received.

Tom

 

[Elessar]

Its easy but it's flippin' heavy, far easier with 2 people.

Don't see why the bellows need changing after 2 years if they're still soft.

Removal

1) Start with outdrive down and put lever in forward gear.

2) Remove the nuts holding the rearward trim & tilt cylinder anchor pin, save parts.

3) Pull the trim & tilt cylinder heads off of the rear pin, save parts. You may have to slacken the forward bolts to do this.

4) Remove the six 5/8 locking nuts & washers from the outdrive at the bell housing, save parts. Note there are only 5 washers - remember where.

5) Bump the unit downward or lift & drop it lightly to break the seal between the drive and bell housing.

6) Pull rearward on the unit and it should fall into your arms. (Be careful, they are very very heavy. Have some carpet to put it on)

7) Clean surfaces of drive and bell housing.

Replacement

1) After replacing the bellows, install new outdrive mounting set which is the rubber seals and O rings.

2) Use a recommended sealant / glue on the large square 'O' ring to the shoulder in the bell housing. (I just use grease.)

3) Use a recommended sealant / glue in the water passage in the groove on the bell housing

4) Replace the "O" rings on the shaft of the drive.

5) Use a recommended sealant on the outdrive gasket and put it in place.

6) Stand the unit upright and make sure the jaws of the gear shift linkage are open to receive the cable.

7) The gear lever in the boat should still be in forward I've had to relift the boat for forgetting this!

8) Place the prop shaft in the hole, jiggle the outdrive until it slides in.

9) Slide the unit forward until the main shaft hits the coupler spline. It may not go in at this point.

10) Keep pressure forward (inward) on the outdrive. Turn the prop counter clockwise, (it will be hard). This will rotate the shaft. Continue this until it slides in, keeping pressure inward as you turn. This is the hardest bit so be patient. When its right it will just slide in.

11) As you get to the last bit, check the shift cable on the bell housing goes into the jaws on the out drive.

12) Slide the unit the rest of the way on and replace the nuts and washers.

It is good to check the gear shifting after only two nuts are applied. If removal is required it saves time. See 7 above!

13) Replace the trim rams and bushings.

 

[jacksparrow11]

cheers cap'n jack.

tom It took me aboat 20mins to get the leg off first time an all I kept refering to the manual, definatly a diy job. i watched a machanic service our first boat, bellows and a oil change and grease from start to finnish it took him approx 2 hours including answering his phone and was charged £350 after that i decided to do myself.
I took my father down to help lift the leg i will let you how it all goes back together hopefully next week as i have to change the front oil seal.
Go for it but definetly get the manual

jack

 

[nonitoo]

Thanks to you both, I appreciate the advice. I'll certainly get the manual and have a go myself + 1 for the lifting.

By the way, how long do you think the bellows should last under normal conditions, i.e. drive left down in salt water for 10 months of the year ?

Tom

 

[jacksparrow11]

Tom i was told change every 2 years and after having one split on my first boat i would agree, it took on quite a bit of water but luckly got it back onto trailer with no damage.
I found this website good for reading before we manual.
http://www.outdriveshop.com/mercruiserhelp.html

have fun

 

[davedpc]

I find standind the o/d on ablock of wood so the driveshaft is horizontal helps.