Measuring standing rigging for replacement.

[stav]

Hi All,

Well since the rigging is +30yrs old I figure it is time to replace it especially as now have the opportunity to take more than two weeks to go sailing....... The thing I am seeking advice is about what dimensions to give to the rigging company. When paired together some of the pars are the same length but some are slightly different say up to 14mm. Looking at the bottle screw set up they seem quite closed so I think I am going to work to the shortest length and deduct ten millimetres. the aim being to centralise the threaded section when installed, but not so short the thread cannot be started when stepping the mast.

Writing this I have been thinking through the plan and the supplier for the rigging wire only offers fork end turnbuckles. So I am going to get wire with swaged threaded ends, reuse the bronze bodies (I bought them from a friend second hand and had only been used for ten years, except my cap shrouds which were bronze so might renew them. I will then buy new threaded strap toggle ends to go with my bronze bodies. Complicated but have been quoted £5500 to have it all done. But hoping to do it for £1500ish myself. Westerly Conway 8mm main mast 5mm and 4mm mizzen mast.

The only other thing is my shroud bases were renewed in 1995 in her refit and are 8 or 10mm round bar u shaped and wondering about using the fork end over this since they are round and therefore will naturally articulate to the right angle?

So use new fork end toggles Or reuse bronze bodies with new wire and new strap toggle ends?

Thanks for the thoughts.

 

[ash2020]

Have you thought of trying Jimmy Green. They supply all sorts of different ends and you can make up the rigging online to check the prices. I'm sure they would post to your location.

 

[vyv_cox]

A method that is widely used when shroud and stay lengths are not known precisely enough is to order them over-length with the upper end fittings swaged on and the lower end left bare. Sta-lok or similar fittings with the required ends can then be mounted onto the wires after they have been cut to length. I once rerigged a 55 ft ketch using this method, very successfully.

 

[Minerva]

A method that is widely used when shroud and stay lengths are not known precisely enough is to order them over-length with the upper end fittings swaged on and the lower end left bare. Sta-lok or similar fittings with the required ends can then be mounted onto the wires after they have been cut to length. I once rerigged a 55 ft ketch using this method, very successfully.

So do you do all the cutting and fitting when the mast is being held up by the crane? Seems like a high pressure job and must cost a fortune in crane fees!

 

[Minerva]

Hi All,

Well since the rigging is +30yrs old I figure it is time to replace it especially as now have the opportunity to take more than two weeks to go sailing....... The thing I am seeking advice is about what dimensions to give to the rigging company. When paired together some of the pars are the same length but some are slightly different say up to 14mm. Looking at the bottle screw set up they seem quite closed so I think I am going to work to the shortest length and deduct ten millimetres. the aim being to centralise the threaded section when installed, but not so short the thread cannot be started when stepping the mast.

Writing this I have been thinking through the plan and the supplier for the rigging wire only offers fork end turnbuckles. So I am going to get wire with swaged threaded ends, reuse the bronze bodies (I bought them from a friend second hand and had only been used for ten years, except my cap shrouds which were bronze so might renew them. I will then buy new threaded strap toggle ends to go with my bronze bodies. Complicated but have been quoted £5500 to have it all done. But hoping to do it for £1500ish myself. Westerly Conway 8mm main mast 5mm and 4mm mizzen mast.

The only other thing is my shroud bases were renewed in 1995 in her refit and are 8 or 10mm round bar u shaped and wondering about using the fork end over this since they are round and therefore will naturally articulate to the right angle?

So use new fork end toggles Or reuse bronze bodies with new wire and new strap toggle ends?

Thanks for the thoughts.

I am doing my rigging this year to satisfy my insurance. Spoke to zspars on a recommendation of someone on here - you just send them the old rigging and they’ll make up a new set to match the old. Keen price too.

 

[vyv_cox]

So do you do all the cutting and fitting when the mast is being held up by the crane? Seems like a high pressure job and must cost a fortune in crane fees!

Change one at a time, no need for a crane at all. A well established method used by liveaboards world wide. Support the mast with halyards. Professionals do the same: my forestay and furling gear were replaced like this.

Or alternatively take the mast off, replace everything to match the old shrouds and stays, put mast back.

 

[Minerva]

Change one at a time, no need for a crane at all. A well established method used by liveaboards world wide. Support the mast with halyards. Professionals do the same: my forestay and furling gear were replaced like this.

Or alternatively take the mast off, replace everything to match the old shrouds and stays, put mast back.

That would do it. Thanks for the explanation!

 

[stav]

Hi Thanks for the replies. Lots of food for thought. The mast are already down and glad they are as going to fit a new mast head LED light, remount the wind sensor and check the VHF antenna, service the sheaves and all of those sorts of jobs. Think I will use the rigging supplies for the wire and swaged ends. Reuse bodies for bottle screws and have had a look at Jimmy Green for the lower parts so can all be brought together. Made a little jig to hold the wires and a slot for the end of the tape, so hopefully accurate enough........... Figure when all the parts arrive can assemble and check next to assembled existing stays. Hopefully my measuring will be ok!!!Also going to add a second hand furler and a detachable stay. Thanks for the comments, made me feel I wasn't being mad having ago at doing it myself.

 

[Sea Change]

Compare prices between Jimmy Green, Z Spars, and S3i. I've always used Z Spars and found them good to deal with and very competitive.

 

[PetiteFleur]

I had my mast down when I did mine a few years ago - well worth it as all the mast fittings inspected as well. I my case I found the baby stay fitting needed repair and also repaired the main halliard sheeve which was stiff. I marked where the turnbuckles were fitted, went to a local rigger who quoted better prices than online and suggested improvements which I accepted.