Measuring for a new sprayhood.

[ash2020]

I bought a S/H frame and hood last year for my 20' Hunter Medina and I've just got round to fitting it. I had to make up brackets to fit onto the top of the cabin sides, rather than on top, because there are 2 winches close to the edge. Very pleased with how the hoops fit. However, the canvas hood is clearly not from such a boat, it's way too big and completely the wrong shape.
I run an upholstery business and do lots of canvas work, I've done many sprayhoods, but only ever using a customer's original as a pattern. I've never actually measured one up from scratch with just the frame. Does anyone have experience with this and can offer any tip, pointers. Thanks.

 

[Roberto]

I had to replace my canvas on the existent metal structure, I followed the Sailrite video for patterning first, then the whole sewing, quite pleased with the result. They call it dodger

 

[ash2020]

I had to replace my canvas on the existent metal structure, I followed the Sailrite video for patterning first, then the whole sewing, quite pleased with the result. They call it dodger

Thank you. I will look for that. Sailrite are pretty good.

 

[Martin_J]

Follow sailrite videos, especially with regards to the stringing up of the frames to get them into the right place, then insulating tape along the top of each frame before putting the double sided tape over the top of the insulating tape (or you'll have a heck of a job trying to peel double sided tape off the length of the tops of each frame)..

I also add one panel of template fabric at a time, cutting around it with an inch or so spare, then going over the lines where the seam will be (along the top of each frame where the proposed stitch line will be) with a marker pen, before adding the extra double sided tape over the top and adding the pattern fabric for the next panel, then marking the stich line again.

Use the marker pen to clearly mark fwd, aft, port, stbd etc and the I, II, III types of mark 'across' proposed seams to make the panels easier to line up before sewing.

I usually then peel the whole pattern off in one go, then cut along the marker lines... and all done... so long as it's not a windy day!!

Buy propelling chalk pens... easier to mark the fabric with...



And if adventurous, you can do a whole cockpit tent in this manner..



Oh and draw the windows on freehand.. they can be straightened up once the pattern piece is flat.

Finally... If you're adding removable (zip on and off) panels... Sew the zips on so that the zipper pull stays with the removable part.. or you're left with zipper pullers that are left on the fixed part of the hood/bimini and they jangle around in the wind.

 

[Martin_J]

Adding oval patches where the cover might rest against a winch isn't the easiest... a rectangular patch would be quicker!

And you can see below that I use webbing around the inside of the windows.. In my mind it makes then look neater..

 

[Roberto]

And you can see below that I use webbing around the inside of the windows..

It's also useful when the windows are due for replacement, no need to sew the new window above the worn one and then cut away the latter, one can remove all the stitches of the old one, throw it away then sew a new piece. I had to do that after a couple of seasons as they sold me a non-UV resistant clear vynil and it all turned suntanned.

 

[Martin_J]

It's also useful when the windows are due for replacement, no need to sew the new window above the worn one and then cut away the latter, one can remove all the stitches of the old one, throw it away then sew a new piece. I had to do that after a couple of seasons as they sold me a non-UV resistant clear vynil and it all turned suntanned.

Apart from the fact that the window material is under both rows of stitching... i.e. it goes all the way under the webbing

I do have a different method for window replacement though