MD7 Saildrive seal

micksayer

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Has anyone any information and/or tips in changing the saildrive seal and clamping ring. I've a Carter 30 with MD7/110S installation. Intending to do the work over the Easter weekend so would be grateful for any info.

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Elissaar

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Dear Mick

I think Easter must be the time for changing saildrive seals! My own boat is having a new seal (it has an MD2030B saildrive), its 7 years old and as a precaution I am having it changed by a yard in Portsmouth (I suspect its weeping). I cant help you with tips and tricks but a volvo dealer, DB Marine in Cookham is very helpful. Speak to Mark Kennet (01628 526032). Incidently, he has offered me 20% discount on parts so if there is anything else you need he might be worth cultivating!

Hope this helps

Simon

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philwebb

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Hi Mick, I did this a couple of years ago on my boat which has an MD5 and a 110S.
First drain engine oil (on my engine the back is open to the drive) Support saildrive
and back of engine with wooden chocks and wedges. Undo bolts between engine
and saildrive, detach engine from mounts ,control cables fuel lines electrics etc
use tape to label where things go. Block and tackle on boom and strap /chain around
engine. Lift engine out . A large piece of scrap plywood will protect your cabin floor.
Lots of rags are essential , a small crowbar came in useful. With the engine out of the
way the clamp ring is now easily removed and the sail drive can be manoevred through
the hole in the hull, providing that you have removed the prop. I think that you need to
drain the oil out of the saildrive and spit it apart to clamp the new rubber seal in place.
A soft hammer will be useful for this.Loctite on the bolts is essential on reassembly.
The sealing ring kit has stainless steel wire to go through the bolt heads, but my bolt
heads did not have the holes. When you reassemble the ring and seal to the hull,
the mating surface needs to be clean. No sealant is used, but I think we used
either silicone grease or fairy liquid to aid postioning of the seal. While your engine
bay is clear it can be given a good scrub.
Support saildrive underneath and have wooden wedges etc handy for putting the
engine back in place. One thing- while the engine is out you can check the rubber
mounts especially the back one. Heavy duty hand cleaner needed for afterwards.
The rubber fairing piece underneath the hull I made up myself from rubber bought
from Electroplan (Radiospares)
Enjoy your weekend, Phil

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micksayer

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Hi Phil
Thanks very much for the advice. Can't say I'm particulary looking forward to undertaking this little task, but, needs must as the pennies drive. My local dealer wants £800.00 for doing the job, which I think is a little excessive.
Thanks again
Mick



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scarlett

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Did mine without moving the MD5 motor. It took me two days, mainly because the nuts etc. were so difficult to reach. One day to take it off; took it home to do the spliting in comfort and fitting back the following day.

Biggest mistake was not replacing the metal ring at the same time.

If the 800 is an all in fixed price from someone you trust, take it if you can afford it, as it is reasonable.

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ashanta

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Another important thing to remember is the it is an insurance requirement and and therefore it is worth considering the guarantee you will receive from a volvo agent for the work carried out. I did all the prep work as previous posts described but let the agents simply change the seal and ring. This cut down significantly the labour cost.
One the posts referred to changing the ring clamp. If it is at all pitted, which is likely if any water in the bilges has splashed about over the years, you should change it.
The work is not as difficult as it first appears and if you are reasonably OK with practical work it should be no problem.

Good luck.

Peter.

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