MD2030 oil leak

[Denek]

Hi can anyone advise please. I have an oil leak on my Volvo MD 2030 and I can’t figure out where it’s coming from. It only leaks when running but there will be a little puddle after it’s run for a while. I can’t see anywhere on the upper part of the engine so figure it must be somewhere lower down. It collects around mid engine. The amount is Enough to require moping up each time and it’s bugging me. I’m going back to the boat tomorrow to see if I can find the scource but we are on the hard now.
any suggestions please.
thanks in advance.

 

[HappyAfloat]

MD2030-oil leakage from throttle arm

 

[Ammonite]

I've recently tackled this on my MD2040 and there are three o rings in the timing cover (throttle, stop and a pivot for the throttle assembly) that can all leak and the oil tends to track along the fuel injection pump and down the block and / or onto the raw water pump. It's a right PITA in terms of the time it takes but not difficult if mechanically minded. The post above goes into more detail. However, also worth checking that the dipstick o ring hasn't failed and that the flange welded to the dipstick where it enters the block hasn't cracked, normally due to overtightening because the o ring is on the way out. If its the dipstick o ring it's a 5 minute job!

 

[Neeves]

A picture is so useful - 'mid engine' ? leaves a lot to the imagination. Is the oil in the moulded fibreglass pod on which the engine sits or

I don't know the 2030, only the 2020 - the oil filter on the 2020 is 'mid engine' and, again on the 2020, the water pump drive, at the end of the shaft holding the impeller has 2 seals one to retain the seawater and one to retain the oil - and the seals are prone to failure (sometimes because the shaft is worn). The water pump could be described as 'mid engine'.

Jonathan

 

[Denek]

Sorry yes by mid engine I mean somewhere around the oil filter. I have changed this and fitted the new one carefully I can’t feel any oil around the filter so I don’t think it’s this. I do sometimes also get a very small amount at the front of the engine in the engine bay but can’t see any signs of oil on the engine at the front so I think it must be finding it’s way there from the main puddle. I think if I can’t find this on the hard I will have to try to sort it when she goes back in the water next spring as unless I run the engine for a decent amount of time it doesn’t seem to leak. I’ll try to take a phot today to show where it collects.
thanks for your replies.

 

[opwanderer]

I have a similar issue with my (22 year old) 2020. I have eliminated most of the obvious and am starting to suspect the rear main (crankshaft) bearing seal. However to get into this will involve splitting the engine and gearbox. Anyone had a similar experience? The leakage is not severe bot there is always a small puddle beneath the sump after running.

 

[Denek]

Went to the boat today. The only place I can see any trace of oil is around the sump plug/ crankcase breather tube. If it is there then I will take that as when I change the oil in the spring I’ll get new washers. I have my fingers crossed. ?

 

[Fimacca]

I have the same issue. 2030. A thin oily mist (non directional) which starts small and grows over 2 months regular use.
the mechanic said it was old oil sprayed accidentally (previous owner) in the foam insulation around the engine that drips out slowly over time when heated.
he spent ages looking . I don't think he was bull$£@! ing............

 

[shortjohnsilver]

Went to the boat today. The only place I can see any trace of oil is around the sump plug/ crankcase breather tube. If it is there then I will take that as when I change the oil in the spring I’ll get new washers. I have my fingers crossed. ?

I have the same issue on my 2040 and traced it to the sump plug. When the engine is used and hot, the oil thins and I get a oil by passing the sump plug, albeit it’s minimal it does seem to go a long way. When standing cold and unused, no drip.
I can just about reach right under the engine and when feeling the sump plug, sure enough oil. I’ve continued to use the engine throughout the year and have very occasionally added a little engine oil to replace but not a lot.
Its a bugger to get under there but next time I service I’ll drain the oil entirely via the sump plug and replace the washers and sort it.

 

[Never Grumble]

I've had a little oil leak for ages, drips towards the rear port side of the engine. I have tightened some of the securing nuts for the timing gear cover which seemed loose and that has improved but not completely solved the problem. I did buy some UV dye for engine oil tracing but in the end never used it. Its such a small amount now that I am less concerned.

 

[TSB240]

I would put money on regulator arm. Try pushing it inwards and the leak will get worse! There is a small o ring on the inside that hardens and shrinks with age.
If you pull the arm out you can nearly stop this leak as the o ring will make better contact and be held by crankcase pressure against the casting.

A double check is to clean up all existing oil with degreaser and then wrap a tissue around
the throttle arm. I managed a year of cruising like this before I gave in to wanting to stop it.

Annoying little leak that is not easy to cure. It is a worthy winter DIY job. A professional will be talking at least two days labour to replace a 10p O ring.

You should replace the timing cover gasket and crank seal as part of the repair.
You need a harmonic balance puller to remove crankshaft pulley.

 

[peteK]

Mine was a leak from a slightly loose sump plug.

 

[Bagarn86]

Hi,

replying to this thread as I have also had an annoying oil leakage on my VP 2030-D that I tracked down to being the rear crankshaft oil seal. Oil would typically collect at the bottom outside of the flywheel housing and slowly drip to the bilge below after running the engine for some time. No large amounts at all, topping up the oil maybe 1dl in 50h of motoring, but still annyoing.

This spring I did a major engine overhaul where the crankshaft seal was replaced along with many other things. Also took down the oil pan and cleaned it out and fit it back with new seal etc. Problem now however is that the same, yet smaller, oil leakage from the same place as before still remains now after some time of motoring! Very frustrating. I have checked if I can see oil coming from somewhere up top if it somehow finds its way down there but havent spotted any place. I have a small leakage from the throttle arm, but this I know and have rags around it so it collects there.
As far as I know I fitted the new seal in the correct way, oiled in the lip seal etc. Possible it somehow has been damaged anyway? Tips on other locations to look for? Attaching some photos with how the leakage used to look like, the work with replacing the seal and now how the leakage looks like.


Old leakage and seal. Clearly leaking.


Replaced and sealing compound around the housing mating surface according to workshop manual.


Still leaking?!

 

[chewbacca]

Not specifically your engine but I commented on similar issues on the 2000 series of engines.Search volvo penta 2003 or 2001 crankshaft seal (rear) I would suspect the issues are the same, if the crank does not have a mirror like finish without any blemishes it is probably still leaking due to the damaged crank face. I am not familiar with the vp 2030-D so I cannot comment on the position of the oil seal. Is it possible to reposition it, either moving in or out of the case to bear on a new section of the crank?It looks from the photos maybe not. The most reliable and easy fix is probably to fit a speedi-sleeve on the crank. You appear to have good access, I wish I had that kind of access on my boat. Good luck.

 

[Daydream believer]

I had a leak on the port side of my 2020. It seemed that there was oil all around the sump seal, so I managed to get my arm underneath & using a small ratchet spanner tightened it against the cork gasket. Something that I was loath to do. It still carried on & after 30 hours motoring ( inc motor sailing) there would be a mess under the engine. I had never removed the rocker cover in 4000 hours & the paint was hardly cracked with no sign of oil.
One year I was short of oil when doing the annual oil change & only filled the engine to 3/8 inch below the max line on the dip stick.
Result - No leak. No idea why, but if I fill it higher, I get oil under the engine from somewhere. If I keep it down a bit I can place absorbent paper under the engine & it will stay fairly clean for nearly 30 hours of running.

 

[MikeBz]

I have a similar issue with my (22 year old) 2020. I have eliminated most of the obvious and am starting to suspect the rear main (crankshaft) bearing seal. However to get into this will involve splitting the engine and gearbox. Anyone had a similar experience? The leakage is not severe bot there is always a small puddle beneath the sump after running.

I had an oil leak on my MD2020 which was the rear crankshaft seal - the clue was that it was wet with oil along the underside of the engine/gearbox interface. I was able to detach the gearbox and drop it back far enough to change the seal in situ. There was a slight groove worn in the surface that the seal runs on so a risk that a new seal would also leak, but fortunately it doesn’t. If the groove is bad enough then you can get a sleeve which you heat up and slide over the end of the crankshaft to provide a pristine surface for the seal to run on.

 

[Bagarn86]

Not specifically your engine but I commented on similar issues on the 2000 series of engines.Search volvo penta 2003 or 2001 crankshaft seal (rear) I would suspect the issues are the same, if the crank does not have a mirror like finish without any blemishes it is probably still leaking due to the damaged crank face. I am not familiar with the vp 2030-D so I cannot comment on the position of the oil seal. Is it possible to reposition it, either moving in or out of the case to bear on a new section of the crank?It looks from the photos maybe not. The most reliable and easy fix is probably to fit a speedi-sleeve on the crank. You appear to have good access, I wish I had that kind of access on my boat. Good luck.

It never struck me to thoroughly check the surface of the crank when the seal was removed…I just cleaned it but didn’t check for scratches or similar. Could be but at the same time, what would have caused that there?! The rubber on the lip seal should not be able to cause that to a hardened steel surface.

Another thing is that you apply gasket sealant around the whole thing (grey string on the pictures) which should prevent oil from appearing between the flywheel housing and the engine block where it’s showing now…? It did before, but when the sealant gasket has been there several years it’s maybe likely it will not work completely as intended. But now it has just been applied.

 

[David_cepi]

I would put money on regulator arm. Try pushing it inwards and the leak will get worse! There is a small o ring on the inside that hardens and shrinks with age.
If you pull the arm out you can nearly stop this leak as the o ring will make better contact and be held by crankcase pressure against the casting.

A double check is to clean up all existing oil with degreaser and then wrap a tissue around
the throttle arm. I managed a year of cruising like this before I gave in to wanting to stop it.

Annoying little leak that is not easy to cure. It is a worthy winter DIY job. A professional will be talking at least two days labour to replace a 10p O ring.

You should replace the timing cover gasket and crank seal as part of the repair.
You need a harmonic balance puller to remove crankshaft pulley.

Hi.

I am dealing with this issue right now. I have pulled apart the the o rings and ready to replace them. My worry is to make sure which size orings should i install from an assorted o ring box. Is it essential to buy original?. I would hate to see how the thing is leaking again cause the orings are not the right size.

Cheers.

 

[peteralm]

Hi,

replying to this thread as I have also had an annoying oil leakage on my VP 2030-D that I tracked down to being the rear crankshaft oil seal. Oil would typically collect at the bottom outside of the flywheel housing and slowly drip to the bilge below after running the engine for some time. No large amounts at all, topping up the oil maybe 1dl in 50h of motoring, but still annyoing.

This spring I did a major engine overhaul where the crankshaft seal was replaced along with many other things. Also took down the oil pan and cleaned it out and fit it back with new seal etc. Problem now however is that the same, yet smaller, oil leakage from the same place as before still remains now after some time of motoring! Very frustrating. I have checked if I can see oil coming from somewhere up top if it somehow finds its way down there but havent spotted any place. I have a small leakage from the throttle arm, but this I know and have rags around it so it collects there.
As far as I know I fitted the new seal in the correct way, oiled in the lip seal etc. Possible it somehow has been damaged anyway? Tips on other locations to look for? Attaching some photos with how the leakage used to look like, the work with replacing the seal and now how the leakage looks like.


Old leakage and seal. Clearly leaking.
View attachment 136907View attachment 136901View attachment 136902View attachment 136903

Replaced and sealing compound around the housing mating surface according to workshop manual.
View attachment 136904View attachment 136905

Still leaking?!
View attachment 136906

Sorry for reviving an old thread. But did you leave your engine only supported by the front mounts while doing this? It certainly would make this job easier in my boat.

 

[MikeBz]

Sorry for reviving an old thread. But did you leave your engine only supported by the front mounts while doing this? It certainly would make this job easier in my boat.

When I did our MD2020 rear crankshaft seal in situ I left the front engine mounts in place and blocked up under the sump to support it.