MD1 wont start Help.

ferrispeterchris

ferrispeterchris

Well-Known Member
Joined
13 Aug 2005
Messages
850
Location
Bangor, County Down
Visit site
My Westerly Pageant has been on the hard for the last year. Before that the engine was running well. I did a lot of work to it two years ago, luckily located a used head,no lateral movement of the piston so I put it back together and all was well. Went to start it yesterday and it would not fire. I fitted a new injector when I was doing it up. I slackened off the big nut on the injector cranked the engine and got a small amount of fuel out. When I did the same with the small nut got a lot of fuel out. Any ideas anyone? TIA Peter.
 
Stuck valve; Faulty cold start button; old fuel/bug;Recheck Valve clearances,did you check the shim thicknesses for the new head/use new ones - reduced compression if wrong.Make sure the cold start button staysdown at the start. I don't recommend the QuickStart fluid unless all else fails.

You could try injecting some engine oil into the cylinder to increase the compression for starting via the injector aperture.



Did you have anything left over when you did the overhaul!

ianat182
 
Will check for sticky valve that thought did cross my mind yesterday but I never did lift the rocker cover.No bits left over,as I said it/she was running sweetly before. Diesel bad? possibly. What about the "big nut" or "small nut" should I have been getting more diesel from the big un?
 
Have you bled the fuel system, checked for water in fuel from condensation in part filled tank; emptied the water separator if fitted?

Are you using the decompression lever and have you checked the clearance on it and the valve arm inside the cover; it's a devil to check properly but when refitting head etc it alters the clearance, too much and the valve will not seat, or the decompression will not work if the clearance too little; I don't have the handbook any more but at rest it must just clear the arm and not be in contact with it,say .015"and the cam on the lever applies the pressure when operated.

Your lift pump is obviously working OK, and the return line will return more fuel than the injector uses, quite a lot more too.

ianat182
 
A squirt of engine oil through the air filter port always worked like magic on mine. Use one of those oil cans with the flexible pipe to the nozzle and get it well in. Dont turn over with nozzle inserted. Would not recommend more than 2 squirts as you may cause a "hydraulic lock"

If using dynastart also suggest a 2 man operation - one operating the starter and decompression /valve lifter - the other cranking hard with the starting handle. This involved something like a game of twister to enable each to do thier job on my little Wesertly but the faster cranking did get me started and out of a couple of scrapes.
 
Sticky governor.

I know that on some of the early Volvos if the engine has been shut down for some time with the throttle in the minimum position, the balancing mechanism for the governor sticks in the off position and the engine won't fire up - even with fuel appearing to be getting to the injectors. That was a problem I had with a MD11C which I think uses similar technology. If nothing else works, it might be worth investigating. The remedy I found is set the throttle to mid-revs position after shutting down the engine. (assuming you can get it started, first!) Best of luck.
 
Another thought just occurred to me.
If you have been turning your engine without it starting ,you will also have been turning the raw water pump which will not then exhaust the water as normal but remain in the exhaust pipe /bend.
I suggest that you should turn off the seacock, and proceed starting methods, then quickly turn on after it does start, which should get rid of any possible build-up of water.

ianat182
 
Good news, after bleeding everything in sight and a serious amount of cranking the old girl fired up.Bad news, my exhaust elbow (between the manifold and the rubber exhaust pipe) expired flooding the bilges! Luckily I am still on dry land. Any clues as to where I could get one or will I have to make one. I also noticed the elbow has two separate channels for a short distance ie one exhaust one water,any particular reason for that?
Thanks for all your help. Peter.
 
ferrispeterchris said:
Good news, after bleeding everything in sight and a serious amount of cranking the old girl fired up.Bad news, my exhaust elbow (between the manifold and the rubber exhaust pipe) expired flooding the bilges! Luckily I am still on dry land. Any clues as to where I could get one or will I have to make one. I also noticed the elbow has two separate channels for a short distance ie one exhaust one water,any particular reason for that?
Thanks for all your help. Peter.
Click to expand...

Bad luck.
the elbow is a "mixing elbow" I.E. mixes exhaust gases & water & designed so as to inject the water down the exhaust pipe, not back into the valve gear.
A new elbow will be like rocking orse poo
 
Mine has a dry riser before the mixing point, not original but also prevents water coming back into the engine from exhaust end. Looks like it's been made from heavy steel pipe elbows threaded together. I can take some pics if you fancy a bit of fabrication
 
a'int t'internet a wonderful thing !

As of now there is a complete MD1 for sale on e-bay...currently this maybe your best source for parts etc....

If you don't need the gearbox I know someone , (DYLAN), who just might!!

Cheers !
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Share this page

Top