Bosun Higgs
N/A
I have a small oil leak which appears to be coming from the back of this pump. Has anyone ever removed the complete assembly without disturbing the timing gear? Is there an oil seal on the pump shaft?
MD 2030 raw water pump
- Thread starter Bosun Higgs
- Start date
alan
Well-Known Member
MD2030 Raw Water Pump
I have removed it on the 2020, so I guess it should be the same. The only difficulty I had was getting at the bolts on the back of the engine block which hold the pump on the engine body; with patience I did manage to get it off. Didn't have any problem with the timing gear. The pump assembly has a cog which mates with a cog in the block. Yes, there is a water seal behind the impeller on shaft on the pump side and an oil seal on the shaft on the engine side of the pump.
Alan.
I have removed it on the 2020, so I guess it should be the same. The only difficulty I had was getting at the bolts on the back of the engine block which hold the pump on the engine body; with patience I did manage to get it off. Didn't have any problem with the timing gear. The pump assembly has a cog which mates with a cog in the block. Yes, there is a water seal behind the impeller on shaft on the pump side and an oil seal on the shaft on the engine side of the pump.
Alan.
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
To answer your question, the pump has two seals on its shaft and they are easily replaced. Volvo do a kit. The pump is held on with four bolts and has a large 'o' ring to seal it in place. The bolts go through the casting containing the timing gears into a backing plate with captive nuts on it. This has a paper gasket. You won't disturb the timing gears when you take the raw water pump off.
However are you sure that the oil leak is coming from the back of the raw water pump? I had an oil leak in this area for years and eventually found it was coming from the spindles of the stop control, throttle and governor mechanism. The tiny 'o' rings cost me less than £5 but a lot of hassle to install, and you need the workshop manual to fit them. (Its available online)
Clean and dry the whole area carefully and then run the engine and watch VERY carefully to see where the oil is coming from. Watch yourself on the moving parts and wipe with clean tissue etc to find the first traces of leaks. My experience was that a tiny leak went a long way and for years looked as though it was coming from a different area to where it was really leaking from. I speak with feeling as this is the first season with this boat (in six years) that I have had a non-oily engine bilge.
Bosun Higgs
N/A
Thanks for that advice - no I am not sure. The leak is small (I think) but I wont really know what size and from where until I sort out the other leak which is coming from somewhere either under the engine or behind it - I suspect the crank seal. The thing that makes me sure there is a leak from the pump area is oil on the top of the engine mount bolt
cmedsailor
Well-Known Member
Bosun Higgs;2701577The thing that makes me sure there is a leak from the pump area is oil on the top of the engine mount bolt[/QUOTE said:
bobm
Well-Known Member
Shaft removal to replace seals
Jumping in on this post, I have the raw water pump sat on the kitchen table with new seals ready to fit. How do I get the shaft out to replace the seals? At the moment the pump is intact with the drive gog still attached by the single nut.
Bob
Jumping in on this post, I have the raw water pump sat on the kitchen table with new seals ready to fit. How do I get the shaft out to replace the seals? At the moment the pump is intact with the drive gog still attached by the single nut.
Bob
Cantata
Well-Known Member
If yours is the same as the pump on the 2020, the cog is a press fit on a taper, with a nut just to make sure. You'll need to use a 'puller' to get the cog off.
Cantata
Well-Known Member
If it's the pump seal that's gone, the oil will be coming from a small hole in the underside of the pump body's narrow section behind the pump chamber. Should be able to feel it with your finger, and see the trace of any oil if you apply a piece of loo roll (unused) or somesuch. (The hole gives access to the shaft between the two seals, so you can tell which seal has failed depending on whether you find oil or water)
bobm
Well-Known Member
Cantata,
Once I get the cog off how do I get the shaft out to replace the seals, or how do I get the old seals off the shaft with the shaft insitue?
Bob
Once I get the cog off how do I get the shaft out to replace the seals, or how do I get the old seals off the shaft with the shaft insitue?
Bob
Stork_III
Well-Known Member
Try this link, may give you some clues. http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/raw_water_pump
Cantata
Well-Known Member
Sorry, I can't exactly remember but the link that Stork III has come up with rings some bells! I'm no engineer but I'm sure it was obvious and straightforward. Only did the job about about 3 years ago, brain fading....
LeonF
Well-Known Member
Bob I just had mine done for me. I have a 2010. It was a very simple job once the pump was off, which was a battle as two of the bolts feed in from the back and it involved working on one's back with a sawn off spanner. I say simple, because the chap knew what he was doing. The circlip pliers were invaluable ( I had never seen a pair before). Even though he was skilled, it helped that I had printed off the exploded diagram from a Volvo supplier schematic. http://www.marinepartsexpress.com/vp_sch_fs.html.
Bosun Higgs
N/A
Remove the drive gear with a puller and then remove the circlip holding the bearing behind the drive gear. Drift the shaft out with a hammer from the impellor end and it will come complete with two seals, two bearing etc
Bosun Higgs
N/A
having removed the engine and replaced both a leaking crank oil seal and a leaking gearbox oil seal and leaking seals on the water pump, I've put it all back together above a nice clean shiny sump only to find there are also leaks where you describe above.
I have the manual but do you care to give a bit more info on how to tackle the job?
john_morris_uk
Well-Known Member
This is what I wrote last time - sorry its a bit sparse on description, but hopefully it gives you a flavour of what to do.
"Removing the timing gear cover on the Volvo 2010/20/30/40 series.
First you need to take the alternator belt off and remove the seawater pump and tie the pipes back out of the way. Then you need to remove the crank shaft pulley. This needs a large socket and a long bar AND in my experience some heat on the pulley to get it off its taper. There is a flat on the casting of the pulley you can put a spanner on to stop the crank rotating. Once you've got the nut off you need to put a three legged puller on the pulley and heat it up to get it off. Boiling water or a blow torch does the trick - but be careful with a blow torch in the engine bay of a boat!
Once the pulley is off, you need to remove the injector pump and as you lift it clear, carefully take the clip off the linkage that connects the injector pump rack to the governor assembly that is inside the gear case. The connection is just clear and visible underneath the injection pump as you lift it up. (There is a small spring clip that you need to pull off and it would be VERY EASY to drop it through the injector pump 'hole' and into the sump of the engine!) Try not to bend the shims that sort the injection pump timing out that the injection pump sits on. Then it's a matter of undoing all the bolts on the flange of the timing gear case and removing it to sort things out. One last thing to be careful of. There is a spring on the governor assembly that locates in a recess in the flange of the casing. It's not obvious at first where it came from, but with that as a clue it should be clear where to put it back. The various shafts on the timing gear case are easy to remove and to put the new o-rings on. Its a lot of hassle for three o-rings, but it cured all our oil leaks when I did it. You will need a new gasket for the cover and possibly a new oil seal for the crankshaft pulley.
Hope this helps. PM me for a phone number if you want to talk it over, or if you are in the west country I could come and give you a hand."
The time I did it, I cleaned up and degreased the timing chain cover and when it was assembled I sprayed everything with Volvo green paint so it all looked like new again. The shafts all have either nuts on the end of them or cir-clips. I have added a couple of comments to my original broad brush description and omitted 'take off the injector pipes etc etc in my description of what you need to do as I hope those procedures are common sense.
