mast raizing gizmo's

Are you going to be doing this with the boat on a trailer or in the water and does the mast pivot at it's base?

I use a halyard running over a pivot point approx 4-5' above the deck and then down over the bow roller to the trailer winch, although I can take it through a block and back to a cabin top winch if I'm on the water. My pivot point consists of a beam across the vertical ends of my folded beams but several other similar boats use a gin pole attached to the foot of the mast instead. The real problem is making sure you mast stays stable sideways as it goes up. Mine is designed so that the shrouds do all the work immediately but others have had to fit temporary support wires.

It's a really simple, safe and reliable system which given I generally trailer sail it has to be.
 
I use purpose fitted rings about 35mm in diameter welded vertically to a plate. One each side of the mast on the side deck. These are located so that the spin poles 2 off when in thse rings meat at the forestay. In my case without roller furling I have a clamp onto the bottom of the forestay to which is attached another ring that the spin poles can lock onto.
I have a high filed lever on the bottom of the forestay (fractional rig, so that all rig tension can be applied or released in a moment. On my 27 ft mast (light) I use a 3 purchase tackle from the ring on the forestay to the deck attachment for the jib clew.
When the mast goes back the shrouds go very loose so I guide by hand the mast down to a high support at the transom. (quite smartly if on the water under way.)
I can fit lines from a point up the shrouds about .7 metre forward to pulleyson the gunwhale then back to winches. These can be used to tension the shrouds as it goes down so stopping sideway swing.
The pivot base of the mast has quite a small "wheel" base such that mast can swing quite a lot sideways without damage. As opposed to those with a 10cm base in cast ali that snap off inm a jiff.
When my mast is down to the high level of the support at the transom, I release the mast base pivot and walk the mast forewards until base ia at the bow rail where it is slung on ropes under the rail. Then I lift the mast down from the high level support to a low level one for on the road.
In my case with the mast down in the high level support (2.5 metres above the cockpit floor) mast is low enough for local bridges but high enough so boom can stay attached to the mast. All works well after 35 years of ownership.
Poleringscropped.jpg (20.8 KB)
mastbase.jpg (24.1 KB)
100_6759scaled.jpg (83.8 KB)
http://www.ybw.com/forums/images/attach/jpg.gif
 
Further to the above comments. If you have roller furling then people around here use a spin halyard for actual lowering in place of forestay. This must be firmly cleated on the mast of course. The spin poles are used in a similar manner. With the tackle to the halyard end. Use the tackle to apply tension so that forestay can be disconnected from under the drum. For boats with inner forestay this can also be used for mast lowering /raising in the same way. good luck olewill
 
Have a look at some pics of Pegasus 700/800s. I used to have an 800, with A frame and side/steady wires. Piece of cake to use. Important that the pivot point of the side steadying wires is level and in line with the point at which the mast pivots.

http://www.ybw.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-131261.html

For a mast that size (although I use an A frame as a gin pole) I think I might use a lifting frame as per the following, only needs to be slightly taller than the balance point on your mast, usually just under the spreaders.. more here.. http://www.hurleyownersassociation.co.uk/pages/mastliftframe.htm

mastlift2.jpg
 
loads of great info to check out. the 2inch ali scaffold pole to build an a frame, sideways movement should kept to the minimum. the mast step on the jag25 is cast ali with a hinge, the 3 1/2 inch screws would soon rip away from the compression post quite easy
 
Top