Mast "A" frame construction ....

William_H

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Re: Mast \"A\" frame construction ....

Nigel I am unclear on the term "blade" for the mast step.
My boat has what might be described as a blade which the mast base straddles. It has a pivot bolt at the front through lugs on the mast and through the blade on a raised point. This is actually an excellent form of pivotting mast step becuase it can accomodate huge amounts of mast swing sideways when near down without real damage.
Many local boats have a commercial cast aluminium base with 2 lugs set about 12cms apart and this distance is not enough to stop the mast swinging but is enough to snap the lugs off very easily.
Mast swing occurs if it is not sufficiently stayed sideways when half down and you encounter a wash when motoring. As in under bridges.

I reckon the secret to mast lowering (or raising) is to have very long (high) A frame or mast support at the transom. It should be so high that you can only just lift the mast into it while standing at the back.
You lift the mast into the support then slide it forward to the engage the base. This means the mast is closer to balance (ie less top heavy) and so it is easier to get the base engaged. But more importantly much of the early raising (angle) has been done by physically lifting at an easy lifting point. (Provided it is not too heavy.)
So you might get the first 20degrees from Horozontal done before you start hauling on your tackle. This means less compression loads on your A frame and less load on the tackle.

Your main sheet will almost certainly not be long enough. You need to be able to take it back to a halyard winch or sheet winch for the first (lowest ) part where the real load is. You then revert to pulling by hand as it gets near vertical. So 4 part purchase is prefered.

It is all very doable as we see on Swan river 75fters with 100ft of mast lowering the mast this way while under way under bridges. Yes that is a bit scary but many smaller boats, but still larger than yours, do it regularly. One acquaintence does it on a 40 fter single handed as a matter of habit (without stopping)

I think that the poles you have in mind will be a little light and susceptible to failure in column compression (buckling). Needs larger diameter. You could use a single spin pole but it is likely too log and really tedious in staying it sideways compared to 2 poles.

To "graham" re. staying the mast. On a mast head rig you extend the chain plates in rigid steel tube or rod to a popint in line with the mast pivot. This forces the stays to remain tight even with the mast at 45 degrrees. On a fractional rig the chain plates usually are well aft of the mast so they go slack when mast goes down. I use a small tackle attached to the shroud about a metre above deck and can tighten the shrouds as it goes down. However a system is growing popular here where a slider is fitted in the main sail track, two poles are attached pivotted on the gunwhale towards the transom. As the mast goes down the slider and poles move toward the mast top supporting it sideways all the way. It can even be used as a support when the mast is down but if angles are too acute they won't have as much vertical support. Some even advocate actually raising the mast by hauling the slider down the track although I feel the loads would be too great.

good luck to you all be carefull and have helpers until you get it all running smoothly. olewill
 

charles_reed

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I used

40mm x 2mm for a very similar function, the bowsprit for an 860 sq/ft asymmetric.

Loads are probably greater, but lever shorter (1550mm).

Successful.

Comment, you'll need a generous cross-sectional area to resist the bending moment, I haven't done the calcs (insufficient detail) but I'd guess you'll have an awful lot of deflection, even if the load won't be crippling
 

cliffordpope

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Re: I used

I have raised and lowered a 25 foot solid wooden mast using an A-frame made from an old garden swing. The poles are 1" diameter and about 8 feet long, bolted together close to the top.
With a 4-fold block purchase on the stem head, connected to the forestay lead over the notch in the poles, it is quite an easy one-man job. Just start at the stern, lift the mast by hand while walking forward, winding in the fall. At about the beginning of the coach roof I can't reach the mast any more, so the tackle takes the weight.
I tie the upper block to the frame to stop it from slipping, so the frame reaches the foredeck just as the mast reaches vertical.
The metal poles are easily strong enough in compression. As the swing was originally a flat-pack one, the poles are actually in two socketed sections, so it could all stow away into 4 feet if I wanted.
 
G

Guest

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Re: Mast \"A\" frame construction ....

Thing is I don't need to UNSTEP the mast ...... I'm looking to lower it still pivoting on the blade.
Once down - no problem to move etc.

I have found a guy with scaffold poles ... have to ask him if I can have 3 of them !! 2 to be side and 3rd to be centre ... could even produce a tri as Spyro ?

and a local supplier of galv. 32mm pipe ... 2.8mm wall .... 6m lengths ... 15 quid each ...

Now this brings me to a question ...

If I took the 6m lengths of 22mm I have and created a tripod ... with centre leg extended to mast base ... sides to fwd baby-stay fittings - say each side leg at 3.5m and centre at suitable .... maybe the making of a tri will adde enough stiffness and strength ?

Oh back to asking the scaffold guy !!
 

Lakesailor

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Re: Mast \"A\" frame construction ....

Just try lifting an A-frame of scaffold poles to an upright position on a moving boat before deciding you don't want to spend double on alloy.
 
G

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Re: Mast \"A\" frame construction ....

The blade is a T section plate inverted so that the vertical part of the T sits for a cast shoe in the mast base to sit over ... this has a slot in it. The shoe extends aft about 5 - 8cms to allow a bolt to pass through and the mast to pivot without fouling.
The advantage is the blade has a number of pivot points so mast can be moved fwd or aft before raking to increase tuning ability. But the major disdvantage is the structure is not designed to take any side or lateral strain ... it is purely designed as a vertical pivotal fitting.

Close look at photos here may help :

mast-base.jpg


April21_2005h.jpg


thYarmouthmay-day2006maintenance.jpg


mast004.jpg


Superanne-gosport.jpg


Image004.jpg


Image0001.jpg
 
G

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Re: Mast \"A\" frame construction ....

I agree about alloy and the weight ... but I won't be doing it out on a mooring as you have ...

It's basically in my sheltered canal with boat stern moored to pontoon. And other place is alongside another dock / pontoon other side of bridges ...

I reckon that fixing the bases first - then use spinnaker pole uphaul to pull frame up to vertical. Once there - the main halyard can pull the strop up the mast under the spreaders .. the spinny pole uphaul can then be slacked of ...
My idea now after trawling the web is to have the A frame fixed and not pivoting as mast raises / lowers ...

I even considered taking the mast and boom from my weekender boat and creating a derrick on the pontoon with it ... it's light enough that I could even carry it to other location to fit up ... The base fits a smaller diam. tube on deck without bolt etc. The stays providing the real support ... so wouldn't be difficult to set-up and still be able to put back on w/ender ....
 
G

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Interesting variation ....

http://www.precisionowners.com/CrossnerMastRaise.htm

Simple and effective ... Ok - the mast is subject to side influences and would need steadying as its raised ... BUT the single wood beam held in the pulpit means a steady runner point..... and reasonable height.

The guy is doing it on his trailer and using the trailer winch ... but a simple adaption so that the runner is fed down to bow fitting and then to my anchor winch ?
My mooring arrangements are reasonably sheltered ...

So another idea in the pot !

untitled.jpg
 

PatrickB02

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Re: Interesting variation ....

I’m sure you have tried this, but Googling on “mast raising” gives a plethora of different methods, including my personal favourite, the system on the Telstar 28 trimaran, at http://www.geminicatamarans.com/Exterior_Telstar_Mast.htm, which seems to involve the use of no fewer than three A frames! It might even be four – the videos are a bit small and my eyesight isn’t what it used to be!
 

Spyro

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Re: Mast \"A\" frame construction ....

Wouldn't like to try it on the water. its scary enough how much the mast moves when the stays are loosened.
 

Spyro

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Re: Mast \"A\" frame construction ....

Yeh I tell folks it's because it is a Trapper300. I'm surprised you didn't post a picture to go with the name. /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif
 
G

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Re: Interesting variation ....

The Telstar system ..... ye - a Mate of mine Malcb passed that link to me earlier ! Blimey - minor engineering job - but judging by the photos works. Particularly like the way it slots the mast base into place !

Anyway - as I said before - my mast is staying bolted to the blade fitting - so its only a matter of pivoting mast up / down - I don't need the full blown lift and lay job.
 

William_H

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Re: Interesting variation ....

High Nigel. Yes I think the blade base is much the same as mine except I don't have any provision for moving mast fore and aft.
Like I said I consider it a very good system in that the mast can swing without too much damage. I have seen many including a local 32fter with tall mast where the mast go out of hand when half way down and swung sideways under the effect of a passing boats wash. The mast base was badly damaged.
With the blade system the blade and slot should be wide enough to cope with quite a bit of swing without damage. The other systems having 2 pivot points might seem liike they could stop swing but in fact just destroy themselves when trying to stop swing. The mast should be controlled by keeping tension on the side stays or by having helpers hold the mast.

Anyway I would urge you to try the classic 2 poles as an A frame hinged on or near the chain plates with a tackle to the bow. If you have helpers lifting from the cockpit, then cabin top, the loads will not be so great. My little boat has purpose built 50mm diameter rings on a base fitted permanently to the side decks just for the spin poles. However almost any attachment including tieing with rope to the chain plates is OK.They only need to be tethered to locate them.(stop them slipping aft) Just bear in mind the main load is down onto the deck so provide some flat plate for the pole ends to pivot on.
In your location in the short canal you might be able to set up a ladder on shore so mst head maintenance can be done with the mast lowered to about 30 degrees from horizontal. I use this method against a highjetty. It is better than climbing the mast.

I think you will find it all a piece of cake once you do it. good luck olewill
 

cliffordpope

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Re: Interesting variation ....

I agreee with William H - see my previous post.
If the mast pivots at the bottom, and can go all the way down to horizontal without unbolting, the classic 2-pole system is dead easy. The poles don't need to be very long - they merely hold the forestay out to get a better angle of pull.
As I said, I raise and lower a heavy wooden mast single handed by this method.
 
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