Mariner 2.5 ..... how do I split the engine from the leg ?

[Bav34]

I want to clean the waterways on my outboard as the water flow seems to have decreased and the engine cover feels hotter than expected. The little elbow (with the large rubber pipe) that comes out of the block was blocked with salt which I have poked clear and I guess the waterways will be the same.

When I had a Yam/Mariner 2 HP this was just a case of undoing the 6 bolts that held the engine to the leg. With a bit of wiggling the two would separate and it was easy to get the salt deposits out.

However on the 2.5 I have got to the same stage .... cover off, electrics unplugged, even taken the fuel tank out BUT with the 'same' 6 bolts extracted the engine just won't separate from the leg.

There is definite movement .... a small gap opens on the spark plug end of the joint but there is very little movement at the carb end.

It really feels as if there is something internally holding them together.

Any ideas?

My biggest problem is that I am not in the UK at the moment ... coming back Sunday then we are leaving for France on Tuesday ... which gives me just Monday to sort it.

Not my fault ...I got to this point several weeks ago when in the UK and a boatie friend offered to have a go ... he agrees that there is nothing more visible to undo .... but also at a loss as to why they won't split /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

I have spent ages searching the Interweb but strangely no-one else seems to have this problem /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif


Thanks

 

[Talbot]

I initially had that same problem with the old Yam 2hp. The previous owner had not greased the join between the engine and the shaft. I eventually had to get quite physical with it. IIRC I removed the gears from gearbox and allowed the shaft to be withdrawn so that any work would not damage the waterpump, and eventually I ended up with the shaft join exposed. At that stage even if you havent managed to break the shaft join to make future deep surgery an easier procedure, you will at least have got to a point when all the crystal removal can be carried out.

 

[Bav34]

Thanks Mark. If I read that correctly did you end up with the engine separated from the leg .... but with the shaft still attached to the engine as opposed to the shaft still sitting in the leg?

If so it may be worth me ''tapping'' the cavitation plate on the bottom of the leg with a rubber mallet to try to break the shaft joint in the engine.

 

[Lakesailor]

This is the motor that is a Tohatsu really isn't it? If not ignore this.
Don't "tap" the cavitation plate. It'll suddenly snap.
There isn't anything more to undo. It's just a wiggling job. I seem to remember I used a hardwood drift on any parts up at the powerhead that would help open the gap and then prised (carefully) with a lever, which I seem to remember was a small tyre lever with nicely rounded edges. Just try not to damage the mating faces, although it's not crucial. There are quite a lot of threaded castings on the powerhead which seem substantial enough to tap against the create some movement. See the pictures.

The arrows point to areas for special attention. The water jacket passes through small holes and these need careful cleaning.

 

[Bav34]

That's the one Lakey, many thanks. I'll get my soon to be ex-mate to have another go now that we're confident that its only the shaft jammed in the 'head' and not some humungous 4 inch nut holding things together

Don't seem to remember seeing those convenient yellow arrows ... probably hidden under the black paint ????? /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

 

[explores]

Can,t the boffins make a chemical that clears the water ways out without all this dismantling? We can get to the moon,but can,t dissolve salt.

 

[Talbot]

Just realised that I have given you duff info. The pulling apart of the gears is the best way to get at the water pump.

You can see the end of the shaft on a previous post in this thread. It will almost certainly be just crud and rust holding it together.

 

[Bav34]

Yep, crud and rust. Once Paul mate had the confidence to give it some stick, judicious tapping on the engine block with attendant wiggling soon had it apart. Water ways not as bad as expected but the overflow pipe connection (???) was blocked solid.

Following advice to others on the Forum he poured vinegar into the drain channels then stood back in horror as things started to fizz and gurgle.

After a few minutes(with the overflow pipe held up in the air) he pulled the pipe off and a stream of gunk spluttered out!!

Several applications of vinegar later everything flowing freely /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

Thanks, as usual, for the input.

 

[Alrob]

next why not run engine in bucket of vinegar - might be easier

/forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif