Manky Electrics..... Tips

[Ammonite]

Hello,
Quick question about aged electrics.

I've discovered that my boat had 40 years worth of grot, and green wiring. I am working my way through it also to remove that redundant circuits and bring some sense back to the circuits.

Questions:
1: is there a magical spray that will remove the verdigris on connectors in situ - think dirty contacts on quick blow fuses etc.
2: does anyone know of solder/heatshrink spade connectors (you see a lot on ebay for butt connectors but no bullets/spades)
3: is there a conformal coating that can be used after clean up.
4: do people run wires in conduit or just in wire bundles?

Thanks,
Niic

Regarding you second question - do you mean this type?
LUTER 250pcs Heat Shrink Wire Connectors Kit Waterproof Electrical Marine Automotive Insulated Wire Crimp Terminals Butt Splice(3 Colors): Amazon.co.uk: DIY & Tools

Loads of similar items on eBay, Amazon etc and I prefer them to the red, blue, yellow nylon variety. You do need a heat source of course and I have one of these

Dremel Versaflame 2200 Stationary Butane Gas Burner, Cordless Mini Blow Torch and Heat Gun for Soldering, Pipe Bending, Welding, Shrinking: Amazon.co.uk: Business, Industry & Science

Edit: Just seen post #9 D'oh!
Heat gun is still worth a look though

 

[Turbonic]

So time for disclosure of the master plan**....


I've stumbled https.://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/

These guys have lots of bare crimp connectors, and the corresponding clear covers. I think I shall opt for these and actually crimp and solder the wires to each?

Foul play you say!
Yes apologies, however the spade shrink connectors I have discovered don't actually have solder in them as per the butt connectors? I've also used these bare terminals before and they give superior crimping when used with the righttool.

Amazon linky:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product...c_img_srh_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1IFADH6IWHNPH

The "tagged" versions of these terminals can be used in male/female connectors (durite)

• Bit of a degrease where the bundles have been subject to oily nastiness in the engine room.
• Bit of a clean of the panels with contact cleaner and a toothbrush.
• Pinout powers and grounds on the 12v system.
• Pull out the redundant wire
• Check over remaining
• Add lights/sockets/USB as necessary
• Add tinned copper wires where necessary
• Get jiggy with the soldering.
• For testing/access/revision sake, I will go with discrete bundles and cable trays in the engine bay to the helm control panels I think.
• The rest will depend on access, however will either be conduit or trinking (now I come to think about it, ive seen some flat section stuff used in walls which was plastered over, prob good for confined clearances in a boat - yey.

As for a soldering and shrinkage heat source, I have a rather natty Parkside gas soldering iron from Lidl, which I've used to good effect on other projects. tip? (no pun intended) watch where the heat from the exhaust goes when in confined spaces.

Cheers,
Nic.

**No guarantee of sticking to master plan given or implied!

 

[PaulRainbow]

I've stumbled https.://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/

Good company, have had dealings with them for many years.

These guys have lots of bare crimp connectors, and the corresponding clear covers. I think I shall opt for these and actually crimp and solder the wires to each?

Solder or crimp, not both. If you solder first the crimp can work loose. If you crimp first the solder is a waste of time, it cannot get into a properly made crimp.

Foul play you say!

Indeed.

Yes apologies, however the spade shrink connectors I have discovered don't actually have solder in them as per the butt connectors? I've also used these bare terminals before and they give superior crimping when used with the righttool.

Amazon linky:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product...c_img_srh_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1IFADH6IWHNPH

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product...c_img_srh_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1IFADH6IWHNPH

The "tagged" versions of these terminals can be used in male/female connectors (durite)
[/quote]

The connectors with solder in them are rubbish, don't use them. There is also no need to have every connection waterproof. If you need waterproof use the crimp and shrink terminals (no solder). Pre-insulated crimp terminals work perfectly well with the correct tool, uninsulated ones offer no advantage in most applications. I do keep the uninsulated "tagged" ones you mention, mostly for use on French production boats where they use the male/female connectors.

In summary, i would use:

• Pre-insulated terminals in gerneral
• Crimp and heatshrink where they need some moisture resistance
• Uninsulated if a plug/socket style connection is needed

Buy a decent crimping tool, doesn't need to be a super expensive brand, but not a cheap and nasty one either. Decent ones are available where you can change the dies for different terminal types.

• Bit of a degrease where the bundles have been subject to oily nastiness in the engine room.
• Bit of a clean of the panels with contact cleaner and a toothbrush.
• Pinout powers and grounds on the 12v system.
• Pull out the redundant wire
• Check over remaining
• Add lights/sockets/USB as necessary
• Add tinned copper wires where necessary
• Get jiggy with the soldering.
• For testing/access/revision sake, I will go with discrete bundles and cable trays in the engine bay to the helm control panels I think.
• The rest will depend on access, however will either be conduit or trinking (now I come to think about it, ive seen some flat section stuff used in walls which was plastered over, prob good for confined clearances in a boat - yey.

As for a soldering and shrinkage heat source, I have a rather natty Parkside gas soldering iron from Lidl, which I've used to good effect on other projects. tip? (no pun intended) watch where the heat from the exhaust goes when in confined spaces.

That all sounds reasonable

 

[penberth3]

..... As for a soldering and shrinkage heat source, I have a rather natty Parkside gas soldering iron from Lidl, which I've used to good effect on other projects. tip? (no pun intended) watch where the heat from the exhaust goes when in confined spaces....

A plumber's soldering mat might be useful.

 

[ghostlymoron]

A plumber's soldering mat might be useful.

As for a soldering and shrinkage heat source, I have a rather natty Parkside gas soldering iron from Lidl, which I've used to good effect on other projects. tip? (no pun intended) watch where the heat from the exhaust goes when in confined spaces.

I've also got one of these gas soldering irons which is very useful but has now run out of gas and I can't seem to refill it. What's the secret?

 

[penberth3]

I've also got one of these gas soldering irons which is very useful but has now run out of gas and I can't seem to refill it. What's the secret?

I've had problems refilling things with lighter gas. You must have the right size nozzle on the gas can. Also it helps to have the can the right way up i.e. nozzle downwards seems to help the liquid gas flow. And do wait for any spillage to disperse before you light anything.