Making an anchor trip float + line

[Refueler]

You don't pull on a trip line with the boat lying to the anchor. Head the boat up towards the anchor till the chain is straight up and down and then lift. The tripping line is attached to the opposite end to the chain an just bodily lifts the anchor the wrong way up so it does not foul wires, moorings etc. The tripping line only has to be strong enough to lift the weight of anchor and chain. I use old topping lifts and bring the tripping line back to the boat rather than clutter the anchorage with buoys . Just leave enough slack so the chain does its job. Never had a problem!

If that doesn't work - you slip or slack the cable enough to be able to slowly motor away with tripping line made fast in oposite direction to which you lay to anchor ... the tripping line then pulls anchor out backwards. Once it's moved reasonably - you then pick up normally.

 

[Cliveshep]

On the occaisions that I set a trip line for my 35Ilb CQR (sorry luddite) I use 6mm line with one end tied off on the anchor the line threaded through a small pick up buoy and then tied off on a heavy shackle ~2Ilb weight which is then closed around the line to the anchor ie it runs up and down the tripping line and keeps the buoy above the anchor with a taught line at all states of tide. I suppose if need be I could lift the anchor and chain with it preferably using the winch but have never had to.

It's the simplest things we always miss. I ALWAYS use a tripping line and spend ages "faffing about" getting it to about the right length. I just never thought of the weight idea to adjust, brilliantly simple and no doubt very effective.

Lots of "Senior" moments for me clearly!

 

[Refueler]

I reckon it would in calm conditions but probably not with 3 knots of current running, but if you have an anchor that needs a 12mm line to lift it then I guess you wouldn't notice the cost of a larger buoy
6-8mm would do for 'normal' anchors.

Always amazed at sizes people quote for jobs ....

12mm !!

Think on this - a Rocket Line Throwing apparatus uses a 4mm synthetic braid line ... that line is enough to drag a heavy messenger line in crazy seas and weather to then drag heavy hawsers for towing etc.

as to buoy / marker .... I use an oval float with line through centre polystyrene float that usually is used to keep the line afloat between for / aft moorings. With a 6mm 8 plait braid which is very light and sorry to say this - floats. Why add weight by sinking line if you set line length properly ?

 

[Refueler]

So 10M would be just shy of a kilo so your cistern ball must displace ~1 litre approximately a 12cm diameter sphere, unlikely to be a problem especially with submerged rope.

Sorry but not quite right ....... the polyprop will be bouyant and will not require full weight suspension. Your maths is based on weight in air and lack of buoyancy.

 

[Refueler]

The only problem with anchor trip float and line out here (Greece) is the busy anchorages. Summer is full of charter boats that do not have a clue, most enter day or night with no consideration for anything.
There's always the risk of someone snagging and loosing your line and float or getting a fouled prop on your trip line and then drifting about aimlessly and a chance that it's your own boat they hit.

IMO it's far better if possible to take the line up with the chain or getting ones self a tripping hook.
Ours is like a large stainless steel hook with a 10mm line to it's eye as in a fishing hook with a another eye just after the radius with a 6mm tripping line.

Just in case someone asks, how does that work...........

If you get snagged, let's say on an anchor chain raise your anchor till you can see the snagged chain and hook it and cleat off the 10mm line, then lower your anchor till free and stow, now lower the 10mm line till the weight is of and pull the 6mm trip line and off you go.

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This is similar to commercial shipping way. But then you have big windlasses to haul up the anchor and fouled object. We would then pass a mooring wire round fouled object with a rope tail fastening to bitts back on board. Slack away the anchor till it frees.
When anchor is clear and can be brought home, you then 'axe' the rope to drop fouled object away ... making sure everyone is in safe position.

 

[grumpygit]

This is similar to commercial shipping way. But then you have big windlasses to haul up the anchor and fouled object. We would then pass a mooring wire round fouled object with a rope tail fastening to bitts back on board. Slack away the anchor till it frees.
When anchor is clear and can be brought home, you then 'axe' the rope to drop fouled object away ... making sure everyone is in safe position.

Agreed this works fine with a little messing, out here we are used to 8-10mm rode's that are/should be laid at least 3 to 4 boat lengths for stern to berthing. Most windlass's are capable of lifting the offending rode.

We get so much entertainment from the charter boats watching them in this busy harbour, they get upto all sorts of antics. Using boat hooks which disappear with the rode, standing on anchors and trying to lift off the rode, trying to swim down to free the anchor and much more...............Some even pay a diver €150 to do the job.

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[Searush]

On the occaisions that I set a trip line for my 35Ilb CQR (sorry luddite) I use 6mm line with one end tied off on the anchor the line threaded through a small pick up buoy and then tied off on a heavy shackle ~2Ilb weight which is then closed around the line to the anchor ie it runs up and down the tripping line and keeps the buoy above the anchor with a taught line at all states of tide. I suppose if need be I could lift the anchor and chain with it preferably using the winch but have never had to.

All the best ideas are the simplest. Thanks for that PeterHB, & to Schmoo for the pretty picture. Now filed away at back of mind for future reference. I love this forum when it generates gems like that.

 

[Cruiser2B]

Anyone use an after-the-fact retrieval system? Like this: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=10105&subdeptNum=10361&classNum=10363

 

[grumpygit]

Anyone use an after-the-fact retrieval system? Like this: http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wc...toreNum=10105&subdeptNum=10361&classNum=10363

Oh come on, it's so simple to avoid or to remedy. Why lean to market forces and advertising.

Sailors are supposed to be so practical and resilient.......unless you only charter once in a blue moon.....?

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[Cruiser2B]

Sailors are supposed to be so practical and resilient......._______________________________________________________________________

I wasn't suggesting buying one - just using the picture (free from the web) to illustrate the device. Easy enough for a practical sailor to cobble together something similar. Just wanted to know if anyone has and if it works?

 

[grumpygit]

I wasn't suggesting buying one - just using the picture (free from the web) to illustrate the device. Easy enough for a practical sailor to cobble together something similar. Just wanted to know if anyone has and if it works?

Sorry to cast any astertions, but the simplest is usually the best, generally the most cost effective too....................

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[Cruiser2B]

but the simplest is usually the best, generally the most cost effective too....................

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Piece of steel rod, bent into a loop; slip it over the anchor cable and tie a fender to it - doesn't get simpler or more cost effective - but is it effective?

A tripping line is cheap, but a PITA. If it's not rigged ahead of time, it's completely useless.

 

[smeaks]

If a weight is used to keep the line taught not only will its weight be correspondingly reducing the effective weight of the anchor (e.g. a 4 lb weight would reduce the effective weight of a 24 lb ancor by 17%) but also upsetting it balance. What sort of weight has proved suitable in others' experience?

Provided it is a sinking line it can all be simplified by attaching the line direct to the float with a smaller weight attached to the line say 2m downthat wont effect the anchor at all and allows you to deploy as much line below the weight as you feel is appropriate.

 

[Ludd]

I am totally bemused by this obsession with littering anchorages with floating ropes, buoys counterweights for floating ropes,blocks for these ropes to run through when light weight cableties cost a quid for three gazillion!

Attach the tripping line to the crown of the anchor.
Stop the tripping line (nonfloating ) to the shank of the anchor and to the cable(with loose cableties) at appropriate intervals up to deck level at HW.
When retrieving anchor,wait till cable is up and down.
If anchor is fouled,put tripping line on windlass and Robert is your mother's brother.

God ,that was tiring!

 

[LittleShip]

A few years ago I was sent one of these from the USA...

http://www.mv-dreamer.com/Finger.doc

My instructions were, "Take it to the Anchor and tap it with the device. Once the anchor knows you have one of these you will never need it" !

So far so good, it is still in the packet just in case.

I have to say although I have never used it in earnest, it seems such a simple device to have on board as a safety precaution.

Tom

 

[noelex]

I am totally bemused by this obsession with littering anchorages with floating ropes, buoys counterweights for floating ropes,blocks for these ropes to run through when light weight cableties cost a quid for three gazillion!

Attach the tripping line to the crown of the anchor.
Stop the tripping line (nonfloating ) to the shank of the anchor and to the cable(with loose cableties) at appropriate intervals up to deck level at HW.
When retrieving anchor,wait till cable is up and down.
If anchor is fouled,put tripping line on windlass and Robert is your mother's brother.

God ,that was tiring!

Ludd leading the trip line back along the rode, has advantages as you point out, but it is not the answer for all situations.
If the rode becomes wrapped around an object a floating anchor bouy is more likely to be able to free the anchor. This type of scenario is not uncommon, particularly in coral waters.
An anchor buoy also identifies the anchors location. Although with EGNOS accuracy GPS now does a reasonable job at least to the boat owner.

 

[jbweston]

Ludd leading the trip line back along the rode, has advantages as you point out, but it is not the answer for all situations.
If the rode becomes wrapped around an object a floating anchor bouy is more likely to be able to free the anchor. This type of scenario is not uncommon, particularly in coral waters.
An anchor buoy also identifies the anchors location. Although with EGNOS accuracy GPS now does a reasonable job at least to the boat owner.

I agree - one reason for buoying the anchor is to tell other boats (boats who know what they are doing, that is) where my anchor is so they don't foul my cable.

I use the Petehb sytem and it works fine. With a weight there is no floating line and the buoy keeps station.

 

[Angele]

Provided it is a sinking line it can all be simplified by attaching the line direct to the float with a smaller weight attached to the line say 2m downthat wont effect the anchor at all and allows you to deploy as much line below the weight as you feel is appropriate.

This is indeed simpler. However, any surplus line will be between the anchor and the buoy (whereas with the earlier weighted method illustrated by Shmoo it is on the other side of the buoy) and this therefore cannot ensure that the buoy is immediately above the anchor - hence losing one of the benefits of using a buoy in the first place.

 

[maby]

Piece of steel rod, bent into a loop; slip it over the anchor cable and tie a fender to it - doesn't get simpler or more cost effective - but is it effective?

A tripping line is cheap, but a PITA. If it's not rigged ahead of time, it's completely useless.

Does anyone understand how that thing actually works? Obviously it would be easy enough to reproduce it with a lager fender and a large shackle, but I just cannot see how you get the buoy to stay still - surely it will just stay on the surface and follow the boat?

 

[electrosys]

Would a toilet ball really support the weight of 10+m of 12mm poyester line? Surely not

Tudorsailor

FWIW, a standard 4" (100 mm) cistern ball will support exactly 1 Kg. I use these as intermediate buoys on surface fishing gear, so needed to know this.

For attachments, I found that some s/s wire (tig rods, inserts from windscreen wipers, etc) made into a pear-shaped loop, with the thin end squashed and epoxied into the cistern ball is as good as anything to tie onto.