making a boat unsinkable.

Searush

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OP talks about unscrewing the deck to release pressure & his intention to fill the under deck space - is he talking of an open dinghy style boat? Cos most of his respondents seem to be assuming a big heavy cruiser.

turning a dinghy upside down & pouring the mixed foam under the side decks could be quite effective, although it would be more effective if lower down. Poly foam is commonly used in home made GRP kayaks, with the usual caveat of not too much at a time to avoid splitting the seams.
 

daveyw

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Umm, everytime you finish a plastic bottle of coke, wash it out, screw the top on and stow it in the space you're want to use for bouyancy. The big 2l bottles are best. Thats only 2500 bottles you need!
 
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OP talks about unscrewing the deck to release pressure & his intention to fill the under deck space - is he talking of an open dinghy style boat? Cos most of his respondents seem to be assuming a big heavy cruiser.
.

He needs 2.5 cubic metres so it's fair to assume that it's more than a open dinghy.

I'm not convinced that there is a lot of point in adding foam in the hope that there is much to be gained if a boat is made to be unsinkable. The Rafikiki was still afloat...after a fashion...several days after she lost her keel. She may still be bobbing about out there.
 

john_morris_uk

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Done that, got a liferaft, got the teeshirt... I need to at least go through the motions of sealing my decks in able to get my MCA code, the mecal survayor is quite straight down the line on this one.

Well that's totally confused me. What sort of a boat are we talking about? I have been involved in getting boats coded and although the requirements talk about weatherproof decks of suitable construction etc, I don't remember any requirements for non sinkability in offshore sailing yachts. In fact it isn't until you get to Cat 0 (Ocean going) that you even need watertight bulkheads.
 

RAI

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Why not seal up the available spare compartments, maybe add a waterproof inspection hatch, so the volume could have dual use.
 

shan

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So much misinformation about PU foam on here. Firstly, there are several different types of PU foam. Some are single component open celled,others are 2 component open cell, some are 2 component closed cell. Some react to moisture and continue to expand over 24 hours, others react when the 2 components are mixed and will continue to expand over a period differing from approximately 20 seconds for a quick expanding formula to several minutes for a very slow formulated expansion (yes, this is a slow expansion for a 2 component closed cell). Those that react without the addition of moisture should never have moisture added to them, as you then change the formulation qualities and end up with a badly reacted foam with an enormous amount of broken cells. Some formulations are designed to be sprayed, or injected or mixed and then poured. Various formulas have different levels of rigidity, density and tensile strength.
 

JumbleDuck

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Those that react without the addition of moisture should never have moisture added to them, as you then change the formulation qualities and end up with a badly reacted foam with an enormous amount of broken cells.

As I understand it, it's addition of water to the polyol component that gives you foam rather than solid PU.
 

shan

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To add to this, you will find there is a very small percentage of water added to rigid and semi rigid formulations as you will end up with a large inital expansion and then shrinkage.
 

chris dyer

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I have the same thoughts. I'm thinking that I'm going to make all my storage areas air/water tight with sealed hatches. I'm also going to take my time and 'air tight' all the areas between the outer hull and the inner fibreglass lining. Above the fibreglass lining I'm going to epoxy 40mm sheets of extruded (not expanded) polystyrene sheet as accurately as possible and coat it with a 100gms glass (epoxied). This will provide bouyancy and excellent insulation. In the deadly Fastnet many of the boats that were abandoned survived the storm. People were dying in liferafts when they may have survived on their yachts. Thinking about dyneema standing rigging to ensure I can quickly ditch the rig in an emergency. A flooded hull will sit upright without the rig. Water in water has no mass. The keel will maintain stability. Whatever you do DON'T use expanding foam. The bubbles may be closed cell but the gaps around the bubbles aren't and will quickly fill with water becoming a problem rather than a benefit. This can happen from condensed water vapour. To stop this the foam needs to be completely watertight. Simpler and much lighter to build watertight, air filled spaces.
 

rogerthebodger

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I collected all the single use plastic bottles and filled then with builders foam. I then packed all the bottles into closed but not sealed sections of my 3 meter tender and a 6 meter long motor boat.

This prevents the foam from getting water logged which it will over time. Its hell of a job to dig it out to replace.

I had to do that on some floats for my motor boat jetty at my condo
 

Refueler

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My 5m daysailor when I bought it from a couple of guys here was full of pop-bottles all tied together.

SA and LL.jpg

Yes I know ... they both need a good clean up !! The guys had crammed those bottles into every nook and cranny they could ... even filling the under cockpit bench areas which are supposed to be sea berths. Anyone who wonders what make it is ... its a Polish "Kormoran" - during Soviet time - quite a few were used by Marine Academy's for boat training, twin drop keels and no ballast ! I managed to save this last one here before it 'disappeared .... as so many items did ...
 

Old Harry

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Has anyone used 2 part polyurethane foam in their boat to keep it afloat if it gets holed? I need 2.5 cubic metres in mine. I need to put it under the decks in the void spaces, I plan to put it into tough plastic bags to stop it sticking to the boat.
Can anyone offer any advice before I start please?
Leave room for accommodation, remember the "Unsinkable Titanic"!!!!!!
 

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