Low Friction Stanchion Blocks

[Touching Cloth]

We currently have a number of stanchion mounted pulley blocks for leading the genoa reefing line aft, which are knackered.

Should I replace with similar pulley blocks, or go for stanchion-mounted low friction rings instead?

Thank you.

 

[Poignard]

I had these on my boat, they were excellent:



“Clear Step” Outside Lead Furling Blocks - Schaefer Marine

 

[Tranona]

I use a mix as recommended by Spinlock. Sheaved where there is a positive change in direction and plain rings for straight line spinlock.co.uk/en-GB/uk/products/wl

 

[Poecheng]

I had these on my boat, they were excellent:

View attachment 206243

“Clear Step” Outside Lead Furling Blocks - Schaefer Marine

Fitted these now, having bought them a set off a forumite a couple of years ago, and they are excellent compared the decent blocks that were there before. They put the rope outside the stanchions so that the side deck is clear and they run on ball bearings and soooo much smoothe/easier to pull in.
I also have stanchion mounted low friction rings for other lines and they work well. Obviously they intrude into the side deck, and perhaps a bit more than blocks do, but the other advantage is that you can run a couple of lines through some/all if you need to and get big enough ones.

 

[Refueler]

On my 25ft .. I have the reefing line blocks that clamp on ... but every so often the blocks pull away from the clamp .. I keep meaning to drill and put a self-tapper screw in to prevent that.
On my 38ft - I have similar - but they have a bolt through by design ... they do not pull away ...

If I was to replace all - I would use simple swivel blocks .. so they can move easier to align with reefing line.

I have to say that when looking online - I find it hard to justify many of the prices for a swivel block and mounting loop !!

 

[flaming]

We currently have a number of stanchion mounted pulley blocks for leading the genoa reefing line aft, which are knackered.

Should I replace with similar pulley blocks, or go for stanchion-mounted low friction rings instead?

Thank you.

Honestly I'd go with whatever is cheapest for that use. It's a good use case for LFRs, small angle changes with thin and slippery rope.

I also have stanchion mounted low friction rings for other lines and they work well. Obviously they intrude into the side deck, and perhaps a bit more than blocks do, but the other advantage is that you can run a couple of lines through some/all if you need to and get big enough ones.

No reason you can't have the LFRs right against the stanchion if you lash them with thin dynema wound around several times. Not as tidy as splicing them in place, but would do the job easily.

 

[Roberto]

I personally prefer something solidly attached to the stanchion, when sailing downwind and the genoa rythmically fills and bangs the furler rope oscillates a lot, I tried blocks with soft shackles but they moved too much. I bought the Wichard steel ones, 10-12 euro each particularly inexpensive given the usually jewellery priced Wichard stuff, they work well.

 

[RunAgroundHard]

I use a mix. LFR from the furling drum to aline the furling line with the first block. Last block is ratchet block (on or off ratchet) which makes easing out a reef a doddle when ratchet is on. LGR was bought from chandlers, stanchion blocks were from Harken. A very smooth system.

 

[Roberto]

I use a mix. LFR from the furling drum to aline the furling line with the first block. Last block is ratchet block (on or off ratchet) which makes easing out a reef a doddle when ratchet is on. LGR was bought from chandlers, stanchion blocks were from Harken. A very smooth system.

+1 for the final ratchet block