Low friction rings for headsail sheets

[DoubleEnder]

Hope someone here may have experience that’s useful. I have a 34 foot ‘classic’ wooden fractional sloop, so not exactly state of the art but we try to do our best. I have one inch T track for headsail sheet cars, which are Barton. The sheets scrape on the cheeks of the blocks as they exit towards the cockpit winches and the sheets are getting frayed real fast, plus there is clearly too much friction for comfort. I have feeble classic winches and feeble classic crew so would like to improve things and extend life expectancy of sheets and crew.

We don’t have and don’t want a tackle to move the cars under load. They lock to the track with a pin and we move them between tacks when we remember.

I guess I could find some better cars that would give a better lead. But I was wondering about using Antal rings lashed tight to the car. The angle in the sheet between entering and leaving the block is about 120 degrees I’d estimate. Headsail max area is about 18 sq metres.

Any suggestions? I like things to be simple cheap and light if possible of course

Thank you
Graham

 

[TLouth7]

Are the cars hinged such that the sheave can find the best angle? Ideally you would want a turning block on the side deck in line with the track such that the line exits directly along it. You might be able to use a low friction ring for that purpose if you can position it somewhere such that the angle of deflection is small (i.e. lashed to the toerail forward of the winch).

 

[Poignard]

My classic sloop also has Barton 1" track and I have main tufnol blocks with swivels for the headsail sheets. Like the photo above but not as large.

The sheets came with the boat when I bought her 22 years ago so I have no idea how old they are but they show no sign of wear. The tufnol blocks are over 20 years old.

 

[DoubleEnder]

View attachment 78839

My classic sloop also has Barton 1" track and I have main tufnol blocks with swivels for the headsail sheets. Like the photo above but not as large.

The sheets came with the boat when I bought her 22 years ago so I have no idea how old they are but they show no sign of wear. The tufnol blocks are over 20 years old.

Yes that’s what we used at first but the lee block flopped about and destroyed my varnish so we switched to the Barton cars. But maybe I can make the tufnol blocks stand up with a thick leather collar hmmmm. Thank you

 

[Poignard]

Yes that’s what we used at first but the lee block flopped about and destroyed my varnish so we switched to the Barton cars. But maybe I can make the tufnol blocks stand up with a thick leather collar hmmmm. Thank you

If you used blocks with a becket, you could attach a length of thin shockcord to the becket and seize it to a guardrail wire (assuming you have those cursed things on your classic yacht). That would keep the block from falling without preventing taking up the optimum position when the sheet is in use.

Alternatively, these springs might do the trick:



https://www.marinesuperstore.com/de...MIv_qalbuY4wIVMTPTCh3DLgESEAQYASABEgKvqvD_BwE

 

[DoubleEnder]

If you used blocks with a becket, you could attach a length of thin shockcord to the becket and seize it to a guardrail wire (assuming you have those cursed things on your classic yacht). That would keep the block from falling without preventing taking up the optimum position when the sheet is in use.

Alternatively, these springs might do the trick:

View attachment 78840

https://www.marinesuperstore.com/de...MIv_qalbuY4wIVMTPTCh3DLgESEAQYASABEgKvqvD_BwE

No guardrails hehehe. But the spring could work.... covered with leather of course. Thank you

 

[Poignard]

No guardrails hehehe.

I envy you. Although I have no statistics to prove it, I suspect there are more injuries caused by people tripping over guardwires than there are drownings prevented by having them

But the spring could work.... covered with leather of course. Thank you

I like my suggestions so much, I might even get around to adopting one them! :nonchalance:

 

[Daydream believer]

It may be worth checking that in raising the height of the sheet as it leaves the car (or added on ring) it still works OK with the winch.
I added a pulley to the top of my car (for a different reason) & found that the sheet then formed an over ridding turn on the winch. I solved the problem but you may not be able to.

 

[DoubleEnder]

Yup. I tried a block as per post #3 and it made a poor lead to the winch so back to the status quo. I decided against the rings, in the end. But may try to modify the cheeks on the block in due course

 

[markhomer]

Why not do what the tradionalist would do a wrap your blocks with leather to save your varnish : )

 

[TLouth7]

Because that resulted in a poor lead to the winch...

At a minimum I would suggest using a file and some emery paper to ensure there is a nice radius and no burrs on the edge of the car where the sheet is chafing. You really need a turning block, perhaps another car at the aft end of the rail. This would allow the forward car to rotate to the angle of the sheet while maintaining a good lead onto the winch.

 

[zoidberg]

Barton cars. But maybe I can make the tufnol blocks stand up with a thick leather collar hmmmm. Thank you

I understand the appropriate quality leather ( split chrome? ) is not now widely available, and is pricey. A good alternative is to 'recycle' the tough material from a split fender, turned clean inside-out. The stuff also does a good job on spreader ends and stanchion tops.