sadlerbob
Well-Known Member
I need to lock the threads on a blind stainless shackle and kong swivel for the anchor connections, which locktite is correct for underwater use please?
Locktite
- Thread starter sadlerbob
- Start date
alahol2
Well-Known Member
The locking screws on my Flexofold prop are locked with Loctite® QuickStix™ 248™ Medium Strength, which looks a bit like a tube of blue lipstick. Seems to work OK, certainly haven't lost any screws yet. I believe you can also get a high strength version (red).
wizard
Well-Known Member
I have always used Loctite 243 underwater for my Kiwi for the last 12 years - no problems. (Also blue, but liquid)
Ian_Edwards
Well-Known Member
I used Loctite, not sure what grade, but blue in colour on my Kong swivel. When I came to take it off last week after 5 years and literally 100's of nights at anchor. It was very hard to get break the bond, I had to use extra leverage on the allen key. Once the bond was broken, it came out easily, so I'd say yes, it works.
vyv_cox
Well-Known Member
See on my website, under Anchoring>swivel connect. I tested Loctite 242 which proved very effective. Not to say that others don't work just as well.
savageseadog
Well-Known Member
Don't use the high strength stuff, some offerings are branded as "Studlock" by Loctite, not what you want. I've been using a low strength "Screwlock" which I believe is 222, successfully.
I was over enthusiastic and wanted security and coated the complete thread on an anchor connector. When I came to undo I could not move anything and resorted to a blowtorch. Loctite 609, its a red one, though from memory not readily available - but its what I had.
Quite a few seem to work underwater - cannot comment on which works best.
The trouble being a bottle last for ever and everyone seems to be using with success the first one they bought!
Jonathan
Quite a few seem to work underwater - cannot comment on which works best.
The trouble being a bottle last for ever and everyone seems to be using with success the first one they bought!
Jonathan
When you install - take note of Vyv's sage advise on his website. There is a right way to install a swivel and he defines what it is, most swivels are installed direct to the anchor and thus incorrectly.
I am intrigued - what has prompted you to spend a lot of money on a swivel?
Jonathan
I am intrigued - what has prompted you to spend a lot of money on a swivel?
Jonathan
prof pat pending
Well-Known Member
609 isn't designed to be used as a thread locker, it's for use on cylindrical assemblies.
They recommend that you use heat to disassemble.
lw395
Well-Known Member
To be clear, you are only intending to immerse it after it's been allowed to set?
I've used 242 on mooring shackles, it actually makes disassembly easier, as it prevents corrosion in the thread.
Seajet
...
On Harriers & Hawks, Loctite 221 on important things like contols ( which also had split pins as a positive lock ) was for ' able to undo sometime in future ' while grade 290 was for ' never comes undone, ever ! '.
My uncle had an engineering workshop and used to be able to tell different grades of Loctite by their taste; strangely enough he shuffled off this mortal coil quite early...
My uncle had an engineering workshop and used to be able to tell different grades of Loctite by their taste; strangely enough he shuffled off this mortal coil quite early...
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Sounds perfect to secure an anchor shackle?
Seajet
...
Use it if you like, but I'm used to Loctite in aviation and marine use and would still use monel locking wire every time for anything important like anchors let alone moorings !
Neil_Y
Well-Known Member
If you have some handy, epoxy works well and is what we recommend on all underwater bolts fixing rope cutters to P bracket and spool to prop hubs, none of which you want to come undone. Araldite 2011 (precision) is good as it has a low melting point so dismantling is made easy with a little heat which softens the epoxy.
Appreciating this is an anchor thread and I was also thinking outside the 'box'
I'm all for belt and braces and would use both, if possible. Some shackles are recessed with alan key slots and cannot be moused, nuts and bolts have the same inadequacies. Many props and bits of props are attached with 'simple' nuts or bolts that are not designed to be moused. The very environment in which an anchor (or prop) is used is quite aggressive, even to mousing wire. I imagine its as embarrassing if your prop falls off or if your anchor allows you to go for a walk.
A common complaint now is that bow shackles are too wide to fit into the increasingly narrow bow roller on modern yachts (basically the shackle pin lug catches on one side of the bow roller). One practice is to use a bow shackle with a recessed head to the pin (so no protrusion), another is to cut the lug off, leaving enough of the lug to be drilled to take mousing wire (but commonly only one strand of wire). Hence Loctite.
Jonathan
Seajet
...
Then flanged ends to peen over the nut, split pins through castellated nuts, etc; a positive rather than frictional lock is always required on safety critical items.
jerrytug
N/A
I bought 250ml (half a pint!) of 242 on ebay, a lifetime supply for £19.99, which is far cheaper than Halfords etc. The seller is 'bankruptoverstock' if anyone is interested, no connection etc.
Seajet
...
jerrytug,
sounds great but I'm not familiar with 242 grade, is that ' undo in future ' or ' that's it for life ' stuff ?!
sounds great but I'm not familiar with 242 grade, is that ' undo in future ' or ' that's it for life ' stuff ?!
sadlerbob
Well-Known Member
Do you know I can't answer that. I presumed it was to avoid chain twist when circling at anchor.
My set up is exactly like Vyv's on his.
I bought the Kong quite a while back to replace my existing swivel which on comparing is rather light on contruction.
What's your views on them?
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sadlerbob
Well-Known Member
Yes got it now vyv thanks.