Locking the steering

From the good old days of mucking about with wind generators I seem to recall you could lock them by short-circuiting them - I wonder if something similar could be done with an autopilot actuator (assuming an electric one)? Then you could lock it at any time, in any position, at the flick of a switch.
In a hydraulic system it might also be possible to override the spool valve solenoids with a switch, locking the fluid (and therefor the ram) in place.
I haven't messed around with autopilots in a long time, so please don't start hot-wiring expensive kit based on my mad ideas, but it might be worth looking into - simple to implement, simple to operate, and the force is applied "below" all your linkages.
 
I already asked Raymarine about that, and it was a definite no. I think if I had the powerboat version with jog steering it would be possible to just go in to manual steering mode and adjust the rudder position.

The control unit for the AP has terminals labelled 'clutch' and 'clutch solenoid'... what would those be for?
 
@geem yes quite a different system.
We have a 90⁰ bezel gear in the top of the pedestal, a UJ at the bottom of pedestal, a shaft, second UJ, 90⁰ gearbox (this is the one with the failed bearing), shaft, UJ, then final gearbox which is a worm drive reduction whose output is an arm rather than a shaft. Finally a drag link to the stub tiller.
The AP connects directly to the stub tiller.

With so many components in the system I like the idea of locking at the rudder shaft itself, which should reduce wear on the steering gear.
 
geem said:
Is interesting to note the differences in various Whitlock systems. Mine has a large cast iron gearbox adjacent to rudder shaft that is a 3:1 reduction gearbox. The rest of the shaft drive consists on a Plummer block, three way gearbox to handle the rotary drive autopilot motor then the bevel gearbox at the base of the pedestal. Due to the 3:1 reduction gearbox close to the rudder, we don't really need to lock the wheel at anchor. It doesn't move. Being a barn door rudder some 6ft long it would be hard to move without the reduction gearbox.
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Mine is similar with a huge reduction gearbox next to the quadrant. Everything else is a direct or 90 degree linkage. I have no play in any linkage except the outside helm wheel and i think the best approach is to check and correct if necessary play in every linkage as per your and Norman S. My wheel linkage involves serious extraction surgery and it can wait.

I would be careful of any locking mechanism that is hidden - my autopilot defaults to unlocked if power is turned off. You don't want to be hunting quadrant locking pins in the dark as the anchor drags! I admit that that I tend to choose simple and reliable solutions to most problems, usually starting with a piece of rope.
 
Kelpie said:
@geem yes quite a different system.
We have a 90⁰ bezel gear in the top of the pedestal, a UJ at the bottom of pedestal, a shaft, second UJ, 90⁰ gearbox (this is the one with the failed bearing), shaft, UJ, then final gearbox which is a worm drive reduction whose output is an arm rather than a shaft. Finally a drag link to the stub tiller.
The AP connects directly to the stub tiller.

With so many components in the system I like the idea of locking at the rudder shaft itself, which should reduce wear on the steering gear.
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Understand your approach although I think that properly adjusted, lubricated and kept dry bevel gearboxes will last a very long time.
 
Kelpie said:
With so many components in the system I like the idea of locking at the rudder shaft itself, which should reduce wear on the steering gear.
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IMO it's the only way.
People who are pro tiller and anti wheel often site an issue that they get less feel and feedback from a wheel, which is obvious when a lot of linkage is added.
Similar to adding a wheel driven A/H, it has to work overtime to keep up with any play in the linkage.
 
So, thinking about the disc brake idea.
Would it be possible to make the brake caliper electrically actuated? I'm struggling to think of a place in the cockpit where I could practically mount a brake lever, and it would need some way of locking it down.

I think a small solenoid could work. Running a cable and installing a switch seems much neater. But it would have to fail open, and not draw a continuous current whilst closed. And of course the throw length and force would need to match up with the brake caliper.
 
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I think I see a problem with these little solenoids. They are for giving a momentary push, not a continuous force. Keeping it energised will use a lot of power and burn out the solenoid. So another sort of device is required.
 
Progress update... I finally got the wheel off, now trying to get the rest of the input mechanism apart.
Cliff at Whitlock has been very helpful, despite me not being able to actually employ him to do any of the work due to my location.

I'm quite enjoying a cockpit without a wheel. Maybe I could make it removable in the future...
 
Another update: I've got the entire input shaft out of the pedestal. I'd like to remove the down shaft next, as there is a little play in the lower bearing.
Not sure how to go about this. I removed a circlip and there is a thrust bearing below that. I thought the whole shaft would just lift out but it moves a few mm and then stops.
 
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Kelpie said:
Another update: I've got the entire input shaft out of the pedestal. I'd like to remove the down shaft next, as there is a little play in the lower bearing.
Not sure how to go about this. I removed a circlip and there is a thrust bearing below that. I thought the whole shaft would just lift out but it moves a few mm and then stops.
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On mine the bottom bevel gearbox is undone from below and removed. The shaft is supported at the bottom by the bevel gearbox. No additional bearing.
 
geem said:
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On mine the bottom bevel gearbox is undone from below and removed. The shaft is supported at the bottom by the bevel gearbox. No additional bearing.
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There is no bottom gearbox on my pedestal. The lower end of the pedestal is sealed, and a UJ goes on to the shaft.

I've decided to just reassemble with the shims adjusted. I think this will take out play further down the system. I'm replacing the failed bearing on the first gearbox (going stainless this time) but I couldn't source the thrust bearings and I've been told that they should have a little breathing room anyway.
 
Kelpie said:
So I've swapped one of the shims from one side to the other. There's now absolutely no play whatsoever. In fact it feels a bit too stiff. Hmmm.
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Well, at least you know that you're on the right track. It may need further adjustment.
 
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