Locking of rigging bottle screws

[morgandlm]

I spent some time yesterday adjusting the rigging tension on Bonsella and found myself pondering this question. I looked around the nearby boats and found some boats without any split pins (agh!!), (perhaps they were fresh back on the water after having their mast re-stepped) some with lock-nuts, some with the bottle screws taped up, some with nice plastic sleeves etc etc.

I have always struggled to get split pins folded neatly so as not to leave sharp bits that can snag ankles and spinnakers and am reluctant to tape up due to the corrosion problem. I had the heretical thought of using nylon cable ties, suitably trimmed. In fact I used nice new split pins but am still wondering about cable ties. Any thoughts? Shall I just hang my head in shame for the heresy?
Morgan

 

[michael_w]

I always use monel seizing wire to secure my rigging screws.

I'll try and explain, though it"ll probably be as clear as mud! Middle a length of wire. Pass the ends in opposite directions through the hole in the end of thread, wrapping the wire round the body of the rigging screw. Twist the ends together in a neat pigtail and tuck away so nothing gets snagged.

Neat, quick to do and remove with wire cutters when needed. No need for miles of sticky tape either!

 

[PetiteFleur]

I always use split pins well folded back and taped if necessary(after SWMBO ripped her new trousers on a split pin last year). Incidently, after my boat was laid up ashore, I wandered around looking at things and suddenly spotted a missing split pin on the forestay clevis pin - no idea how long it had been like that but potentially disastrous! I quickly put one in. The split pin was however on the anchor side of the cheek plates and perhaps the anchor chain had ripped it out? I will turn the clevis pin around before it's relaunched.

 

[Pye_End]

The taped up ones were most likely that way to stop the 'sharp bits' exposed!

I don't like locking nuts as they seem to come undone just when you don't want them to. At least mine did.

Cable ties probably work in the UK - but keep an eye on them if you do it. Have never had any cable ties fail due to UV exposure, but then I don't use them in critical places - just in case.

 

[Blueboatman]

Split rings- as you use for keyfobs. No nasty end to jab your wet hands.

 

[saltwater_gypsy]

I have never been sure that any of these approaches would actually stop the rigging screw unscrewing if it is actually going to do so. The split pin and wiring may stop the screw from coming right out of the body but they are probably ineffective in preventing the body from turning unless you have long pins bent back or wire twisted around the body.
Luckily it is very rare for a rigging screw to move more than half a turn in service
On my last boat I had cubes of nylon which fitted tighly into the slot of the body. The nylon block had a hole in it to take the end of the rigging screw and a transverse tapped hole to take a 2mm bolt through the pin hole. Very neat and re-usable.
Come to think of it I should make some for the current boat!!!

 

[savageseadog]

[ QUOTE ]
Split rings- as you use for keyfobs. No nasty end to jab your wet hands.

[/ QUOTE ] Do not under any circumstances use split rings. If a rope catches them they pull out.

 

[Bosunof]

I would turn the clevis pin now whilst you remember. Otherwise when you get to the bow you might have forgotten why you went.
That is if you have as much grey hair as I do

 

[tross]

Two pennies worth - we always used seizing wire in the aircraft industry. The temptation to reuse split pins is too great and is fatal as they can become brittle and fall out -especially the smaller variety. If you tuck them is as michael_w suggested then you do not need tape so you can keep an eye on them.

 

[morgandlm]

Thanks for the replies and the ideas.

Before I bought Bonsella in 2005, I went to see the boat and found the forestay clevis pin half out. The clevis pin was fitted so that the split pin was on the inside so had presumably been ripped out or worn away by the anchor chain. The photo shows how close the previous owner was to a dismasting. The finding rather worried me about his attention to other important items, so I assumed the worst in negotiating a price! So far, so good.

The clevis pin is now in the other way around.

Morgan

 

[Clyde_Wanderer]

Firstly can I say that the clevis pin arrangement in the pic is not ideal, as there will be too much radial movement/play in the pin which will cause undue and premeture wear.
If I were you I would replace the pin with a bolt which has a shank length equal to the outside width of the fork, and I would suggest fitting a spacer in the space between the inside of the fork ond the outside of the bow roller to prevent the fork from moving axially along the pin.
I use a 12mm A4 bolt with nyloc nut and a split pin through the nut for added assurance.