As I thought, mine is a ‘drop in’ if I do not connect the engine. I have wondered if simply connecting the alternator to a charge controller would do it, but of course all the connectoins for starting and charging are inside the engine hood. I have just 2 x 6mm2 cables. Things are rarely as simple as you think.
You still need a class T fuse. Selection of a battery with adequate BMS rating for your load. If you are charging with solar then a smart shunt makes sense to accurately control the solar charge and give a true reading of SOC.
That's all easy compared to dealing with the alternator. And if I am running the fridge, the nav lights, plotter and heating, my load would not exceed 25A, even with both fridge and heater in start up.
Just regarding solar panels. it seems to me that modern domestic solar panels are a lot more efficient than they were 10 years ago. This guy Buying Solar? Don't Pay 'BMW' Prices For A 'Kia'! seems to expect a single solar panel to give 400watts. Now I assume a physical size somewhat similar to old panels because that is about all a single man can handle.
The UK market has a good selection of 300 - 400w and larger glass panels. However, he sails a light weight trimaran, so an arch and a couple of glass panels isn't going to be fitted.
True. What I do have is lots of deck space that is mostly not walked on routinely. And certainly never covered when sailing, I could get more than I previously said if needed, but our needs are quite modest. When folded on our mooring, the floats are partially shaded, so only the foredeck will get the sun then. Making the most of it is going to require some thinking.
My boat was built with class T equivalent fuses on windlass, engine and domestic banks. That was 43 years ago. The Lithium now joins the club