Linseed oil

jmh2929

jmh2929

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Can anyone come up with a good reason for not using it on the boat's external woodwork? I have a gallon of it and teak oil is so expensive /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif
JMH
 
I did try it on internal stuff once and it stayed a tad sticky, as if it never quite dried. I'm not a great fan of teak oil on the boat, I much prefer Danish. It is expensive, but it's only once a year, sticks like the proverbial and dries to a wax like finish.
 
Linseed oil for hardwood.

Apply a full coat to the bare surface, wait for 10 mins. wipe and rub off all excess oil, leave for 24 hrs. to dry

(if you leave any excess it will half dry to a sticky mess as in Evadne's post)

Apply another full coat to the surface, wait for 10 mins. wipe and rub off all excess oil, leave for 24 hrs. to dry

ditto, ditto ditto... at least 12 - 20 coats are needed for a good finish.

I think the above is a good reason for not using it ...........
 
Linseed treated wood will turn black in the tropics and so we don't use it. However, Pembrokeshire isn't mentioned in any of the research material I have encountered to date.

Paul
 
It is an old and recognised way to finish English furniture but as stated requires many applications over months to get even close to a French Polish-like finish..

As to using it on a boat exterior,whilst undoubtedly providing a protective and semi moisture resistant finish,the wood becomes un-naturally dark,perhaps to do with oxidation of the linseed oil itself ?
That is my experience based on repeated applications once or twice a year..

Also a pita on smart yottie clothing when brush up against or sat on for long..
 
There are 2 types - boiled and raw. The raw oil will remain sticky for a long time, the boiled stuff will dry after 2-3 days provided you have wiped off any excess. Teak oil, Danish oil, Deks Olje and all the other 'fancy' oils are not just repackaged linseed oil, but are mixtures of various natural oils and contain drying agents, solvents and carriers to help them penetrate the grain and oxidise without significant darkening. Any vegetable oil (including cooking oils) will provide some degree of protection, but you pay your money and take your choice. As BBman says, it will mark your yottie gear, which is a bit annoying when you've spent all that time applying 10-12 coats.
 
If you do use it DONT FORGET to leave any cloths you use spread out flat as its possible for instantaneous combustion to take place if you leave them rolled up,same applies to Danish oil etc.
 
DO NOT use linseed oil, it will stay tacky for ages, it will also go black and it is a pig to get off, also do not use teak oil, that turns black also. Scrub with a teak cleaner or a teak cleaner/brightener, if you must use something, Teak wonder is quite good.
 
Thanks for all the info and advice. Looks like I need to bite the bullet, dig deep and save my gallon of linseed for something else /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif
 
When ah were a lad, me dad told me the way to apply linseed oil was to put it on once a day for a week, then once a week for a month, then once a month for a year, then as often as needed after that! That was for walking sticks and gun stocks, he didn't do boats, I can see why.
 
srp mentions vegetable oil including cooking oils. I tried cooking oil on a window ledge. It went black with mold. I assumed the mold was digesting the oil!

Philip
 
I'm not surprised, but it may be oxidation as well as mould growth. Cooking oil is recommended as a finish for sycamore chopping boards and butchers chopping blocks, and (slightly off-beat) as being suitable for deck shoes. All of these would (should?) receive more regular cleaning and re-treatment than, say, the rubbing strakes on a boat.
 
I know a little about linseed oil having a Swedish friend who deals in the stuff. Don't use any linseed oil that isn't clear. The colour in linseed oil is caused by the presence of proteins that have not been removed in the refining process. These proteins are what fungi feed on and in turn make your woodwork go black. Of course nice clear linseed oil is very expensive. The same rule applies to teak oils the clearer the better.
 
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