Liferaft question

MrG

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Last night SWMBO and I were talking about liferafts - as you do. It has 2 connections to the boat (its mounted on deck beneath the boom).
1st connection is via the hydro-static release - so it can bob to the surface,
2nd is the rope that inflates it - which is also fixed to the boat.

Question is ' how does the second not pull the liferaft down?'

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Cheeky Girl

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Surely that defeats the purpose of the hydro-static release. This is supposed to send the liferaft to the surface once the required depth is reached - not use it as a balloon to hold up the sinking boat.

Graham

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tome

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Launching line is long (length should be marked on raft, prob 25m) and would normally be used to release. You have to pull an awful lot of line out before you can do the magic pull to inflate.

Hydrostatic is for if you are overwhelmed and go down suddenly. There should be a knife by the entrance to the raft. Best to know exactly where in case you need to cut free in a hurry- you won't have time then to read the handbook.

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Wiggo

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Umm, probably. But I don't think the hydrostatic jobbies were designed to be sensible, were they? If your boat sank, would you wait around until she was x feet underwater before attempting to deploy the liferaft?

Assuming that the boat sank without anyone aboard noticing, then the hydrostatic release would let the liferaft out of it's cradle, at which point the sinking boat would tug on the painter and inflate the raft. The weight of the sinking boat would snap the painter, I expect, allowing the authorities to puzzle over themystery of an unmanned liferaft, adrift with a snapped painter, and the total disappearance of a boat and crew...

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pvb

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Next time it\'s serviced...

Next time your liferaft's serviced, try to go along and have a look at it, including seeing the location of the knife and other bits and pieces. You might even pull the cord to inflate it, if you don't mind paying for a gas refill, etc. As Tome says, there's a lot of line to pull. When I tried it on my liferaft, I was also surprised that you need to tug the line very hard to trigger the inflation.

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andy_wilson

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Life or death answer!!!

YOU SHOULD NOT HAVE BOTH LASHED DIRECTLY TO THE BOAT.

The raft should be strapped to the deck via the hydrostatic release, which will cut this lashing at a pre-determined depth on immersion.

The raft activation lanyard should be attached to the WEAK LINK OF THE HYDROSTATIC RELEASE. Usually clearly identified as a link or loop connected BELOW THE RELEASE MECHANISM by a separate piece of cordage, usually in a CONTRASTING COLOUR.

In the event of sudden sinking, the hydrostatic release cuts the raft free and the natural bouyancy of the raft brings it to the surface. The raft lanyard is still attached to yacht side of the weak link and at 30 ft or so will deploy the raft.

The bouyancy of the raft will cause the weak link to fail at this point and the raft is released, complete with intact painter which may be useful to deploy secondary sea anchor.

Next time aboard, examine it all carefully, compare with the instruction sheet which clearly illustrates all this, and make sure you install it all correctly.

Ensure the raft lashings are VERY secure, both against the raft being carried away by green water crossing the deck, and strong enough to deploy the raft without pulling away.

The weak link will snap cleanly on deployment of the raft (and further sinking of the mother ship). Poor attachment of the release to the ship could result in it pulling away before the raft is deployed. or snagging in rigging etc. once the raft is deployed.

Oh, and check the date.

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jerryat

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Hi Roger,

You are quite correct, this is exactly how they are designed to operate. At least, my Avon liferaft is!!

Cheers
Jerry

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StephenSails

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I a not sure about this at all! I worked for a well known liferaft servicing company about 5 years ago and this certainly was not a feature on Avon rafts then, so it must be a new feature but its sounds dodgy to me. I would check with the manufactuer asap! I am pretty certain that the line has to be cut with the supplied cork floating knife once you have boarded the raft.

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bedouin

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In order to be type approved the breaking strain of the liferaft tether must be less than the buoyancy in the liferaft so in the case you mention the painter will part rather than dragging the liferaft down with the sinking boat.

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tome

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Consider this scenario. Hydrostatic release.

The boat sinks suddenly, for whatever reason. The crew make it to the surface and clip on to each other.

The liferaft pops up, disappears briefly as it's pulled under, then shoots to the surface as the weak link goes.

How do you see the crews chances of regaining the liferaft?

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Melody

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Yes, should only be one link

I absolutely agree with you Andy. The liferaft should NOT be connected to the yacht by anything other than the HRU. There should be a diagram which clearly shows how to attach it.

Our HRU has to be changed every two years, so if your is old you should think about a replacement.

Cheers
Melody

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MrG

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Re: Yes, should only be one link

Thanks everyone for this information. I will certainly be checking it out closer next time I'm down as it sounds that I have it incorrectly attached.

I also like the idea of attending the annual checks, which should be Jan/Feb time.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=blue>Regards Mark
 
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