Lifebuoy lights design

[jwilson]

A new 'Trem' LED lifebuoy light, bought last winter, was put onto the boat at the end of April. Last weekend it was found to be dead, water inside, LED bulb and switch area corroded, as were the battery terminals.

The water is not getting in through the orange plastic case, or the translucent light cover: it can only be getting in via the rubber O-ring on the threaded cap, despite my putting a light smear of silicone grease on this and tightening it well (lifebuoy lights have "previous form" for dying from water inside).

I think what happens is that the air inside gets very hot and probably the pressure eventually equalises via minute leaks round the seal. Then you get a cold shower of rain/spray and suddenly the pressure inside is lowered as it cools. The way these things are designed means that if it rains there will then ALWAYS be some water in the upside-down rim of the lens cover above the O-ring and this can then get sucked inside if there is the slightest seal failure.

If the casing design was very slightly changed to have a lip going down over the edge of the lens cover
- remember designer that these items are stowed outdoors UPSIDE DOWN - I suspect there would be a vastly lower rate of failure. It would not stop spray, but I bet most lifebuoy lights get rained on 100 times for every dousing in salt water.

Whilst I accept failures in cheap kit as part of the throwaway culture, these are items of safety equipment. And on replacing it I looked at a more expensive type and saw little evidence of any better design.

http://www.gaelforcemarine.co.uk/ProductImages/led-trem-lifebuoy-light.jpg shows the exact product, though I did not buy it from them....

 

[Mandarin331]

We have one os thesehttp://www.force4.co.uk/7460/Baltic-Flashing-LED-Lifebuoy-Light.html

Which seem to be designed not to keep water on the join so hopefully will be better.

 

[Spirit of Glenans]

I don't think they will change the design as regular replacement of these ensures regular sales of the product. A good wrap with self amalgamating tape should sort out the problem.

 

[prv]

I don't think they will change the design as regular replacement of these ensures regular sales of the product.

Only if people keep buying the standard crappy ones.

There are a number of better designs out there now.

Pete

 

[rob2]

There are a number of better designs out there now.

Pete

I'm not so sure, there are quite a few at six times the price, fully sealed (good) with LiIon battery(good) but then after five years (or less0 shelf life you throw the whole thing away. A better design of the original lens would make the whole thing cheap, cheerful and long lasting. The recent test of new designs in PBO didn't make me rush out to spend money.

Rob.

 

[Twister_Ken]

Not just the cap/body joint. Because many of the bodies are cheaply moulded in carp (anag) plastic, I've had them develop pin holes which let water in.

 

[blackbeard]

I remove mine from the pushpit when the boat isn't being used - take a battery out so it doesn't switch itself on. Check it lights up (when upright) when you put it back. 10 years old, still works.
Incidentally, lines joining dan buoy to lifebuoy and light are typically polypropylene (floats) and if left out in sunlight for years on end will lose their strength. Another reason to stow the kit inside the boat when the boat isn't in use.

 

[lw395]

I remove mine from the pushpit when the boat isn't being used - take a battery out so it doesn't switch itself on. Check it lights up (when upright) when you put it back. 10 years old, still works.
Incidentally, lines joining dan buoy to lifebuoy and light are typically polypropylene (floats) and if left out in sunlight for years on end will lose their strength. Another reason to stow the kit inside the boat when the boat isn't in use.

Likewise.
Otherwise they will get nicked, or at best knocked out of the holder and the battery will go flat.
I put the grubby ancient life ring on when in harbour or on the mooring.
I actually came close to using it in anger once, so I like there to always be a ring of some sort available.
The 'proper' kit is for leaving the Solent or after sunset.

A squirt of GT85 inside the light seems not to hurt either.

 

[pcatterall]

And another thing!!! I was looking at buying some new LB lights myself. I thought that the LED ones would have longer operating life than the old type bulbs ( which often seem to be just one night in the water) I understand that survival my be an issue in some conditions beyond this time but in others it could be much longer.

 

[jwilson]

As the LED bulbs use less power and my (now dead) LED lifebuoy light still has 4 D cells, I'd expect a longer light period.

My danbuoy (at the top above flag) light has the odd arrangement of a 9v PP3 bulb feeding a 6 volt MES torch bulb: obviously the little PP3 is chosen as lightweight to avoid a bigger float and even bigger bottom counterweight, but how long it would stay on I have no idea. I tried a 12 volt MES LED bulb in it and whilst it worked it was not nearly as bright as the overdriven torch bulb. I could easily make up a large high brightness white LED with the right resistor for 9v but I am reluctant to have "non-standard" safety equipment on a coded boat.

 

[LittleSister]

It sounds as though a significant proportion of those on sale are 'not of merchantable quality'.

Can anybody recommend a lifebuoy light they have found durable and (seemingly) effective, still available, and not costing the earth?

 

[TQA]

Not Plastimo. I have had three or four and they have all become unreliable pretty quickly.

 

[jwilson]

Not Plastimo. I have had three or four and they have all become unreliable pretty quickly.

Not Trem
Not Lazilas
Not Plastimo

 

[Martin_J]

And don't follow what I've ever bought.. They've not been 100% reliable either.. even with plumbers putty helping to seal the lens thread.

Even with no visible condensation inside they seem to reduce in reliability unless turned over (to test) each week.

I'm looking for perhaps an LED type with a thread that is not open to direct dampness from above.

 

[Martin_J]

Another option I am considering is making some covers.. Elastic to hold them on and a big webbing handle (or handles) across the front.. Reflective tape could even be attached to name the device and include 'pull here'..

These covers could be designed to protect the whole caboodle - Horse-shoe lifebuoy, Drogue, whistle and light... and might even hold it all in place better than the usual sun damaged elastic supplied with the current type of holder.

 

[Martin_J]

This isn't the only one.. but an example of a cover here..
http://www.seascrew.com/browse.cfm?s=2242421

I know this doesn't answer the OP question regarding a good, reliable light.. but it could be a reasonable workaround.

 

[Chalker]

I've taken apart 3 different types, the long ones that take 4 D cells.

Inside I have found:

A collection of penny washers as the switch
Bent pieces of metal that press against each other or the bottom spring to make electrical connections
Springs that go rusty
Water that gets past twin greased O rings

I also bought two sealed lithium/LED ones that filled with water. Now withdrawn from the market and replaced free by Ocean Safety. The replacements work fine.
They have two studs that switch on when immersed in seawater, or when the salt dries on them! No good for rivers and lakes, fresh water or rain does not activate them.

Getting the horseshoe, light and drogue untangled with or without a danbouy and into the water can be slow. Not sure that I want a cover as well.