LeTonkinoise varnish

[Fr J Hackett]

Pour it into a polythene bag exclude the air, tie the neck with some string place bag in a box or plastic container to protect it and it should be fine.

 

[Black Sheep]

I found warming it up carefully dissolved the skin - good direct sunshine did it for me for classic le tonk.
Not sure I'd have the nerve to use a stronger heat source...

 

[IanCC]

Pour it into a polythene bag exclude the air, tie the neck with some string place bag in a box or plastic container to protect it and it should be fine.

I am sure you are right but i just can't visualise it really. I can't imagine being able to tie a string around a plastic bag sufficiently tight to prevent liquid getting out never mind air getting in.

 

[Stemar]

I've used a plastic milk container. Pour in, and squeeze the container to remove air as you tighten the cap.

One big advantage of LT is that, when it gets damaged, it doesn't lift off the wood like varnish, so you can just sand it and give it a few coats, rather than having to strip the whole lot off.

 

[ducked]

Tung oil on now so will see. Tin of pure tung oil should last for decades it takes such a tiny amount to spend a moment putting another coat on so fingers crossed.. Looks nice.
Woodskin failed this time, I'm sure it was better when it was cetol.

PS. Just did an AI search of social media about pure tung oil against Le Tonk on sailing boats & Le Tonk easily came out on top. My conformation bias did not like that one bit but yours will

I should be able to get some here in Taiwan, if I can persuade someone to tell me the Chinese characters for it. Slight risk of messiness in the checked luggage, but probably acceptable.

I don'need no steeenkeeeng AI

 

[ducked]

I am sure you are right but i just can't visualise it really. I can't imagine being able to tie a string around a plastic bag sufficiently tight to prevent liquid getting out never mind air getting in.

For oxygen sensitive materials you can puff butane or CO2 into the container, or into an outer container in the case of a collapsed milk jug style containment

Another trick is to tie multiple plastic bags around your central container and put some sunflower oil in between them, and then the lot inside a bigger sealed tub. The sunflower oil acts as a barrier, and a sacrificial oxygen absorber, and will collapse the outer tub some as it soaks up the oxygen.

I suppose you could do both, but I've never tried that.

 

[westernman]

For oxygen sensitive materials you can puff butane or CO2 into the container, or into an outer container in the case of a collapsed milk jug style containment

Another trick is to tie multiple plastic bags around your central container and put some sunflower oil in between them, and then the lot inside a bigger sealed tub. The sunflower oil acts as a barrier, and a sacrificial oxygen absorber, and will collapse the outer tub some as it soaks up the oxygen.

I suppose you could do both, but I've never tried that.

Or you could just keep it in the tin, invert it first to get a good seal and keep it in a cool dark place - like in the bilge.

 

[[70521]]

Great to put on etc. But how do you manage to keep the unused stuff in usable condition please ? Nearly giving up with it.

I just make sure the red cap is tightly on.

Brian suggests putting it in an old soft sided washing up liquid container and gently squeezing to form a vacuum. This has the advantage that you can squirt small amounts onto an area and brush in. I've yet to try this, but once the cabin sole is finished am planning to give it a try with what I have left.

Sadly, Eco have changed their containers for some thinner rubbish.

 

[GHA]

I should be able to get some here in Taiwan, if I can persuade someone to tell me the Chinese characters for it. Slight risk of messiness in the checked luggage, but probably acceptable.

I don'need no steeenkeeeng AI

trying not to spark a "mines better than yours"... seems ideal for a cruising boat. Tin I found onboard must be donkeys years old & still fine, lasts forever & so simple and fast to put on, no cleanup. Little bit of an old teeshirt and little dribble in a used tuna tin then a minute 0r three to rub another coat on.
Seems to be generally accepted Le Tonk looks better but looks OK to my eye.



Will let this dry proper over xmas then quick sand with 120 & another 10 coats or so will go on the toe rail & all the other wood then weekly to do list will have a few minutes adding another coat to an area so the whole lot gets a coat or 2 over the course of a year. No brush required makes it practical & fast. After the first thinned coat is soaked in and dry takes very little to bang another coat on.

Ai says

The Chinese character for pure tung oil is 桐油 (tóngyóu)
1
3
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. This term combines two characters:

1. 桐 (tóng): This character represents the tung tree (Aleurites cordata), also known as the Chinese wood-oil tree
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   4
   .
2. 油 (yóu): This character means "oil" or "fat"
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   .

Together, these characters form the term for tung oil in Chinese. Tung oil, also known as China wood oil, is a drying oil obtained by pressing the seed from the nut of the tung tree (Vernicia fordii)
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. It has been used in China for centuries, with references to its use dating back to the writings of Confucius around 500 to 479 BC
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.

 

[ducked]

Or you could just keep it in the tin, invert it first to get a good seal and keep it in a cool dark place - like in the bilge.

Folks up-thread say that doesn't work. I wouldn't know, never having used Le Tonkinoise varnish. These tricks help with other labile materials, but nothing lasts forever, even in the bilge.

 

[westernman]

Folks up-thread say that doesn't work. I wouldn't know, never having used Le Tonkinoise varnish. These tricks help with other labile materials, but nothing lasts forever, even in the bilge.

Always worked for me.