Lessons learned, you may wish to share.

[Happy1]

I am sure there are some basic lessons that we have all learned the hard way, I didn't know if some people would be willing to share them, to perhaps save others from the same fate.

My lesson is that you should be aware that the contacts on navigation lights can become slightly corroded and cause the lights to fail. I lost all navigation lights on the boat, I had previously had a problem with the bow lights and cleaned the contacts, but a week later the rear stick anchor light and bow lights failed. I checked the fuses and bulbs but no problems, but it was bad contacts I later found out on both. I have now decided to WD40 the contacts on a regular basis as darker nights are drawing in, and I will be using them a lot more.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know" <font color=purple>

 

[Nick2]

Peter

Are you researching for a book ?

Nick

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://arweb.co.uk/argallery/Nick2>http://arweb.co.uk/argallery/Nick2</A>

 

[PGD]

a little vasalene or litle greese will last longer than WD40 as most of this evaporates.

hope this helps

PGD

<hr width=100% size=1><A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.mssa.org.uk>http://www.mssa.org.uk</A> Marine Service Standards Assistance

 

[Happy1]

No, just to save my bacon /forums/images/icons/laugh.gif

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know" <font color=purple>

 

[Happy1]

Thanks for that, would that also work on poppers for the canvas?

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know" <font color=purple>

 

[pheran]

Yes H1, there's one thought I would like to share with you. You seem to have had more incidents/problems etc in twelve months of boating than I have in over 40 years. So.......is it you (no offence intended). Is it the type of boat? Is it that new boats these days are complete heaps of cr*p? I'll give you an example - my last boat was 10 years old when I bought it and in the 9 years I kept it, it never even needed a replacement bulb inside or out, let alone corrosion of the fittings. Did thousands of sea miles and it was a Birchwood!!! You have a fondness for drawing conclusions so........waddya think????

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=blue>A hangover is just the Wrath of Grapes</font color=blue>

 

[Happy1]

I think that I have bought on a budget, first ever boat and all that, so I have to ensure that I maintain in in tip top condition or it won't last. The workmanship on these new 'soap dishes' as some people call them is sometimes not the best, and the fixings are bought within the budget. The engine however is the same, so fittings and fixtures are only a small part, but can still be a pain. Looking at a bigger boat has certainly got us thinking, you either get a GS279 Glastron with the KAD32 (or wait for the new D6) for £49,999 or pay £100k for a Sealine with a similar spec. Now for £10k even, I could have the 279 cabin refitted to a reasonable standard and still be in pocket. The Glastron hulls are superb, and so are the Volvo engines IMHO, but as for the rest you get what you pay for. In the cuddy market I am limited to a few models, so it was a really take your pick, which we did. Apart from the boat falling apart, it is great, I love the flexibility, handling, and power it has.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know" <font color=purple>

 

[Jerbro]

Here are some of my lessons learned. These are personal to me and I by no means assume they will benefit others (I'm just answering the question). OK, some of them are real howlers, but hey, this is some insight into my journey of knowledge.

o Little things going wrong with the boat while it's safely moored in marina help you learn more about your boat. Recent example - while tracing the 8 metres of sewage pipe in my V40, I found the bowthruster ran of a separate battery installed at the bow with a big fuse next to it (I had assumed it ran of the engine battery). While fitting the new toilet pump and tracing the wiring, I fix the windscreen washer spray

o Always use the wind to your advantage when mooring. Not so recent example - I picked up a scratch to the hull when trying to get on the fuel pontoon. I was determined to moor to the side with the filler, but fought the wind in the process. Why didnt I try mooring on the other side of the boat and pulling the fuel hose round to the other side (Doh!)

o Don't ever take anything for granted, even trips you've done loads of times. I did on a recent trip from Weymouth to Poole and got caught badly at St Albans Head - it was very scary (big swell and spring tides)

o Don't be put under pressure. A bad boating experience can start when you leave late from work and subsequent events and time available lead to the previous point above (lack of preparation/haste)

That's all I can be bothered to write for now...

<hr width=100% size=1>Jerbro
====
Click here for <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.btinternet.com/~jerbro> My ex-boat pics</A>

 

[Guest]

£50k vs £100k? Split the difference, I could do you a lovely Fairline Targa...

I'll even show you all the stuff I've learned.

 

[tcm]

don't use wd 40 on poppers the material will rot, use vaseline. i am not doing you a favour here but the next owner of your boat! careful with too much wd 40 on lectrics as it can make contacts worse not better.

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[rich]

Re:WD40, is highly inflammable

as i learnt the hard way!

<hr width=100% size=1>rich ) <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.jersey-harbours.com>http://www.jersey-harbours.com</A>

 

[BarryH]

Olive oil works better. Vaseline holds grit and crud. Use olive oil on zips as well to keep lubricated and easy to use. Don't use any silicon based products on acrylic canvas, it kills the proofing.

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[Captain Coochie]

candle wax gets most things running smoothly and its water proof
not tried it on a boat yet thou :O/ so dont quote me
grafite is good for locks and stuff like that but messy(dont want grubby fingerprints on your gel coat )

<hr width=100% size=1>Rowers ......Man in a boat ......Get the picture ?

 

[BarryH]

Aye, but it tends to all flake off with a couple of uses of the zip and turns into a cruddy mess with hot weather. Always found olive oil less hassel. Dip a cotton bud in it and just give it a wipe over.

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[BrendanS]

Do you know what's in those little expensive bottles and 'lipsticks' they try to sell you to lubricate drysuit zips? Never bought one, just interested

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[c_j]

WD 40 is not good for marine use. If you are protecting electrical contacts use silicon grease, Swindelry will have some.



<hr width=100% size=1>CJ
cjs@stone.uk.com


<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.stone.uk.com>http://www.stone.uk.com</A>

 

[Happy1]

Thanks for the tips on the electrics, I must say I never knew WD40 was not effective on them, I will get that sorted, cheers.

<hr width=100% size=1><font color=purple> "You only see what you recognise, and you only recognise what you know" <font color=purple>

 

[Gludy]

Corrosion X is much better than WD40 and can even manage to repair faulty electric contacts.
I had a radio on my old boat - the channel button was sticking so that I got no channel increment or many at once - one squirt of Corrosion X and it was cured.


<hr width=100% size=1>Paul

 

[Will_M]

reo you know what's in those little expensive bottles and 'lipsticks' they try to sell you to lubricate drysuit zips? Never bought one, just interested


Dont know what it is, but can tell you it lasts and lasts and works really very well, shouldn't have thought it would damaged any boat cover, afterall it goes with wetuits & drysuits material with no damage.

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[Guest]

Re: Poppers

When they stick, don't ever pull them off, lever them off wilth the bowl of a teaspoon.

The bowl provides a pivot that won't harm the gelcoat

Geoff



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