Lesson learned

Sailorsam101

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30 Dec 2004
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I've got two AD41P-A's which so far are very good and not caused any issues at all.

I set about doing a belt and impeller change on both..now bear in mind that i change the impellers and belts every year anyway...and both water pumps had new shafts and seals two years ago.

Port engine..belts changed without issues..old impeller stuck fast..wold not budge no matter what! Bugger! So pump off then...all jubilee clips holding on the water hoses snapped the heads..yes they all snapped at the slightest pressure!..bugger!!!!! fast forward a week and i cut the old clips off with my trusty dremel. Then the left hand pump bolt is solid...just won't move...then it rounded off..Bugger! OK hammer a smaller size onto it and off it came. All serviced and put back together and port engine is done.

Stbd engine...Power steering pump off as it's a bit rusty..take it home and make it look like new again! New impeller in and fire up the engine....drip drip drip from the pump..bugger..new seals needed!
Hoses off easily this time...left hand bolt stuck fast again...won't budge..rounded off but no room in front to hammer anything on due to the battery box being in the way...Bugger!!! Cut off head of bolt and remove pump for servicing. Power steering pump back on and all ok with that!

So after all that i'm left with a bolt stud sticking out about 2cm that i'm going to try and get out with heat..if not i'll call in help.

What i have learned is to keep any eye on service bolts...an maybe every year just undo and grease. In two years two bolts had stuck fast!

Bloody boats!!!!
 
What size bolt stud is sticking out? If it is small like an m6 before going for the blow torch what about soaking wd40 or diesel down the threads and leave over night.
Then get 2nuts and lock them off against each other on the protruding stud and with a spanner undo the stud out
Jon
 
The achilles heel of old 40 series engines is the oil cooler which is very hard to see.

If its never been checked, remove it dismantle and inspect.

The corrosion is between the clamp on end caps and the bronze plate at the bottom on either end if they leak.

The corrosion will be to the body of the cooler which is aluminium.

If corrosion sets in it will displace the rubber gasket and blow out the engine oil and seize the engine.
 
Well thankful today i got the blow torch on it and it came straight off first time with some grips.

But now I've tried to rebuild the water pump and find that my spare impeller does not fit the new pump shaft i have. All part numbers are correct but it will not fit...the old impeller slides over the new shaft easily but won't move on the new one.

Any ideas folks?
 
Well thankful today i got the blow torch on it and it came straight off first time with some grips.

But now I've tried to rebuild the water pump and find that my spare impeller does not fit the new pump shaft i have. All part numbers are correct but it will not fit...the old impeller slides over the new shaft easily but won't move on the new one.

Any ideas folks?

The stainless shaft is very soft , of you hit the splined end with a hammer it spreads the splines making impeller fitting tight .
File the splines and all should be good.
I’ve just built one yesterday with new shaft kit , veery expensive for what you get in the kit .
 
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