Leisure 23SL Rudder Full of Water

[dolabriform]

Hi all

My rudder was full of water, to the point where you can hear it swishing about inside when you tip it.

After removing it, I put the trailing edge own on the floor and water came streaming out of what appears to be a crack along it's length.

It's now almost dried out and I'm wondering what the best options, bearing in mind my limited ( read non-existent ) experience of working with GRP.

After removing the antifoul:

A) Ground back the edges of the split, and then use plastic padding GRP Repair of fibreglass matt to seal the joint?
Then drill some holes and fill with foam?

B) Split the rudder with a circular cutter, clean out inside and then put back together, sealing the joint with matt and fill with foam etc?

I have never done anything like this before, and whilst I've watched loads of you tube videos I'm afraid of biting of more than I can chew, hence leaning towards option A, even if it will need further work down the line.

Thoughts appreciated!

Thanks

David

 

[pvb]

I know nothing about Leisure 23s, but rudders usually contain metal tangs, welded to the rudder post. If these have corroded due to water leaking in, the rudder may be weakened. On this basis, it would be best to split the rudder and check the metalwork.

 

[Quandary]

I know nothing about Leisure 23s, but rudders usually contain metal tangs, welded to the rudder post. If these have corroded due to water leaking in, the rudder may be weakened. On this basis, it would be best to split the rudder and check the metalwork.

I second that, it gives you the opportunity to use proper rigid structural closed cell foam ( from the same supplier as the GRP) and at the same time to form a strong web connecting each side of the rudder to the tangs. Leaking rudders are not unusual, I reckon at least 50% of them are taking water after 20 years, it is fairly routine in some classes to drill a hole in the bottom to drain when the boat comes out and fill again before launching, however this is usually from the shaft joint, a long crack is more serious.

 

[colhel]

I used to be a member of Leisure Owners Association (LOA) and I'm sure you could buy new rudders.

 

[peteK]

Its quite common to have water in the rudder on the L23 and other makes of boat,if I was you I would split the rudder and do the job properly.There is 3 tangs inside usually in stainless,when I did mine It was perfect inside with no corrosion,if you don't split it you will have the nagging doubt about it being ok,not as bad a job as you think.

 

[Mistroma]

Its quite common to have water in the rudder on the L23 and other makes of boat,if I was you I would split the rudder and do the job properly.There is 3 tangs inside usually in stainless,when I did mine It was perfect inside with no corrosion,if you don't split it you will have the nagging doubt about it being ok,not as bad a job as you think.

I remember leaving our mooring about 35 years ago and being unable to turn to port after an initial sharp turn to starboard. I could go straight or a bit turn to starboard. I think it took three or four big circles to get back to the mooring. I had a 25' Tomahawk in those days. It isn't something likely to give much prior warning of failure.

I split the keel and found all three tangs corroded at the welds. Easy enough job to get it all welded properly, reassembled and foam filled. It was a pretty common failure as has already been mentioned. Quite correct to split the rudder for a proper repair and not a terribly difficult job once you have removed the rudder.

 

[dolabriform]

I used to be a member of Leisure Owners Association (LOA) and I'm sure you could buy new rudders.

The LOA is amazing organisation and I've had a favorable quote for a new rudder, however as I'm being hit left right and centre with more costs than I expected I'm looking at all options.

And before anyone asks.... yes, I had a survey but as soon as one job starts it seems that more are discovered which I understand is the way of things. All I want to do is insure that the major jobs are taken care of so she is safe for the family.

 

[Tam Lin]

I had a Leisure 23 a few years ago. One day I moved the tiller and the rudder didn’t move. I took the rudder off and split it open to find it full of water and rotten foam and the metal tangs had come adrift from the rudder stock. A small engineering shop welded new tangs in place and I fibreglassed them in place and filled the cavity with foam and fibreglassed the two parts together using tape. It is not rocket science so have a go and do it yourself then you will be have confidence that your rudder is safe and secure.

 

[dolabriform]

Thanks all for your welcome advice.
I split the rudder today and the stock and tangs are fine, so good news.
On top of that, Gerry from Hurst Marine ( they have the LOA moulds ) is able to make a new rudder using the existing stock and tangs, which will save me the hassle of stripping the anti foul and rebuilding the existing rudder, and also save me money
Tam Lin I can't thank you enough for your encouragement, after reading your post I was up for giving it a go!

 

[Tam Lin]

Glad to have been of service and pleased you have got it sorted out!

 

[pvb]

I split the rudder today and the stock and tangs are fine, so good news.
On top of that, Gerry from Hurst Marine ( they have the LOA moulds ) is able to make a new rudder using the existing stock and tangs, which will save me the hassle of stripping the anti foul and rebuilding the existing rudder, and also save me money

Excellent! That'll give you peace of mind.

 

[ghostlymoron]

Any thoughts on how the design can be improved to prevent water getting in through the joint with the shaft? Maybe incorporate a groove for O ring or sealant.

 

[dolabriform]

Any thoughts on how the design can be improved to prevent water getting in through the joint with the shaft? Maybe incorporate a groove for O ring or sealant.

Interestingly the joint around the shaft was watertight. It had a large crack along the trailing edge that was causing the problem.