Leaky Diesel Tank

annageek

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When my wife jumped on board the other day and said "it smells a bit diesel-ey" down here, for no good reason, my immediate response was to dismiss it.

Anyway, it turns out, after starting high and working low, eliminating all other possible sources, our 210 litre mild steel diesel tank was weeping through a rusty spot on the bottom. We found about 15l of diesel in the bilges since the last time we were on board a week ago, so the leak rate was pretty high! Realising leaks like this seldom get better and usually get worse, I managed to scrounge enough jerry cans to take out the remaining 150l of diesel from some really helpful people.

The plan is to make a jury rigged tank to finish the season using a 42l plastic one I've managed to find and replace the main tank this winter.

My question is, what would you go for - aluminium, stainless steel or plastic?

I thought about looking at repairing the existing tank, but at 37 years old, it's older than me, and probably at the end of its life. The plan is to keep the current boat for many more years, so a proper, long lasting solution is required.

Having had a motor boat a few years back that had pitting corrosion in an aluminium tank that almost resulted in a huge petrol leak, I would be against aluminium.

The tank is in the engine bay, which, with the engine having been run seems to get super hot. Woudl this affect the integrity of a large plastic tank (e.g. the bespoke sort that Tek Tanks supply)? This may be academic, as the cost looks as though it may be prohibitive, but the fact it will not corrode is very tempting!

If I go with 316 stainless steel, is there anything that should be done to prevent crevice corrosion due to saltwater that gets trapped between the skin of the tank and the fibrelass berers that it sits on?
 
Hi Anna, when I had a similar problem last year, my research seemed to find that there were pros and cons with each type...in other words, no answer....just best that is available or suits your pocket
 
For 210 L go generic plastic .Heat from the ER won‘t effect it .
Its “ super hot “ because 80 % of the fuel is returned so the diesel tank contents an oil acts like a glorified oil filled radiator.Keeping warm hrs after shutdown .
 
When my wife jumped on board the other day and said "it smells a bit diesel-ey" down here, for no good reason, my immediate response was to dismiss it.

Anyway, it turns out, after starting high and working low, eliminating all other possible sources, our 210 litre mild steel diesel tank was weeping through a rusty spot on the bottom. We found about 15l of diesel in the bilges since the last time we were on board a week ago, so the leak rate was pretty high! Realising leaks like this seldom get better and usually get worse, I managed to scrounge enough jerry cans to take out the remaining 150l of diesel from some really helpful people.

The plan is to make a jury rigged tank to finish the season using a 42l plastic one I've managed to find and replace the main tank this winter.

My question is, what would you go for - aluminium, stainless steel or plastic?

I thought about looking at repairing the existing tank, but at 37 years old, it's older than me, and probably at the end of its life. The plan is to keep the current boat for many more years, so a proper, long lasting solution is required.

Having had a motor boat a few years back that had pitting corrosion in an aluminium tank that almost resulted in a huge petrol leak, I would be against aluminium.

The tank is in the engine bay, which, with the engine having been run seems to get super hot. Woudl this affect the integrity of a large plastic tank (e.g. the bespoke sort that Tek Tanks supply)? This may be academic, as the cost looks as though it may be prohibitive, but the fact it will not corrode is very tempting!

If I go with 316 stainless steel, is there anything that should be done to prevent crevice corrosion due to saltwater that gets trapped between the skin of the tank and the fibrelass berers that it sits on?
A pure aluminium tank will corrode quickly but one made of the correct grade of aluminium alloy and welded with the appropriate welding wire will not corrode. Mine is 23 years old and still in as new condition.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk
 
There's tanks and tanks. Mine was a mass of rust when I bought the boat in 1992, original 1976. Next refurb, I thought, and was still thinking that when I sold the boat in 2018. The spec from the builder was for 5mm steel. 1000 lts.
However, in re your question, I had a plan drawn out for two Tek Tanks at 500 lts each to replace it, cost about £550 which was a lot less than having anything fabricated. Use a big outboard fuel tank until you get a permanent fix.
You can stop a small leak with soap.
 
Good luck with getting the tank out - you never want to do it again. Only one real solution - Tek Tanks
 
A pure aluminium tank will corrode quickly but one made of the correct grade of aluminium alloy and welded with the appropriate welding wire will not corrode. Mine is 23 years old and still in as new condition.

Www.solocoastalsailing.co.uk

Then please tell the US’s largest boat builder.

My last boat, a 1995 Catalina 270, had it’s alloy fuel tank perforate at 20 years old. Fortunately I managed to get it professionally repaired and cleaned (full of diesel bug too) but I was disappointed to have what looked like a shiny, painted tank leak into the bilge.

Took loads of cleaning to get most of the diesel out of the bilge.
 
i had a similar problem and the mild steel tank, nearly 40 years old was cur out in pieces and replaced with custom made from Tek Tanks, have been fine and a great company to deal with, I was happier with that than off the shelf tanks. If you are local they have a base near Alton and very helpful.
 
Then please tell the US’s largest boat builder.

My last boat, a 1995 Catalina 270, had it’s alloy fuel tank perforate at 20 years old. Fortunately I managed to get it professionally repaired and cleaned (full of diesel bug too) but I was disappointed to have what looked like a shiny, painted tank leak into the bilge.

Took loads of cleaning to get most of the diesel out of the bilge.
How annoying, sorry to hear that. They may not have used the best grade alloy (Alloy - 5083 is an example). The fact that they painted it implies it was not the best which do not need any coating protection and can be left bare.
 
Someone, maybe here, had an ally tank. there was a drip from a deck leak, off one corner into the bilge, and they found a slight electrical potential between the tank and the bilge water, like 0.3v or so.
To be fair to me and my 40 year old steel tank, it was 5mm to start with, it takes 10mm of rust to destroy 1mm of steel, (??) and I used to go over the vulnerable areas with a a hammer and screwdriver. Still, all depends on the quality of the original welding....
 
I has this problem soon after I bought my current boat - Moody 33 mk2, again a mild steel tank which leaked - a previous owner had poured epoxy? in to cure the leaks but to no avail. It was a large tank, about 200 litres from memory and after draining it, I cut it into 3 large pieces to get it out of the cockpit locker. Rotating it to cut all round to get it out. Replaced with a 91 litre Plastimo plastic tank from our local chandlery who had had it returned as wouldn't fit the available space and gave extra space in the locker to fit the calorifier which had been in a galley locker. New tank gives me over 24hrs motoring which is more than enough. I did have to replace all the diesel soaked wooden bearers and thoroughly clean the bilge and plywood floor panels.
 
Can't help with tanks, except to say that my plastic tanks are 36 years old and (touch wood) still seem fine. One advantage of plastic is that you can see the fuel level.

When the time comes to clean up and get rid of the diesel smell, I can recommend bioclean. It got rid of a manky diesel stench in Jissel that nothing else would touch. Just splash it into the bilges with a bit of water and let it slosh around for a few days, then pump out.
 
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