Leaking windows Grr Grr Grr

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jakeroyd

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Sometimes I amazed at my own stupidity.
Had a leak in my windows, they are the sort where the acrylic window is fixed directly to the fibreglass without any bezel or frame.

Used Sikaflex 291i then read the data sheet which confirmed it's not the best for UV resistance .Grr

Following visit to the boat still had a small leak and another separate leaking window. Raining of and on so I have to work quickly.

Got some captain tolleys creeping crack cure and a UV stable adhesive/sealant.

For the small window removed it opened the sealant and yes you've guessed right it was white not black. Grr Grr.

Decided to use it cos I had to refit the window before it rains again.
Looks carp. Grr Grr.

Decide to refix it with black but a devil sits on my shoulder and says "yesbut how are you going to get all the semi set white sealant off" He is right so I decide to leave it. Grr.

Just waiting to see if the captain tolleys has fixed the big side window.

You have jobs like this which turn oit to be a comedy of errors ?
 
Sorting out our leaky windows has been grief from start to finish! We also had the black not white sealant error, realising just after we opened it! But decided not to use it.

Just finished hopefully the last window using the UV resistant Sikaflex. We shall see.
 
Believe me having went through the leaky window grief, the only way to cure old window leakiness is for a complete refurbishment and installation. Depending on what you are trying to do, the window type, the materials being bonded, I would advise against using a strong adhesive sealant. There are more forgiving methods for achieving sealing, depending on your circumstances of course.
 
That type of window is very prone to leaking.the acrylic expands quite a lot in the heat and then breaks the seal.The trick is to leave a good thickness of sealant between the window and the cabin and drill oversized holes for the screws that should of course be filled with sealant.This allows the acrylic to move without forcing anything(much).Always use flat headed screws not countersunk ones which impose unfair stresses on the window when it's hot from the sun leading to cracking.
Rubber tape seems to be a good alternative to sealant because it's more forgiving of dimensional changes.It's also easier to do and a lot less messy.
 
I rebedded a hatch today that was leaking onto my face. Didn't do a perfect job but hopefully last a bit. All my windows leak so will need to spend a weekend doing a "proper job" before the season ends.

Longest day soon can you believe; hardly feels like the season has started.
 
northwind said:
Rebedded mine this winter, used buytl rubber tape, very easy to do and not messy.
Click to expand...
Comedy of errors - yes! Read the benefits of butyl and bought a load to do both cabin windows, perspex on fibreglass. Only done one window of the 2 - cracked it slightly twice, over tightening the bolts. The perspex didn't fit the curve of the boat that well, and I compensated with extra in the bulges. I also put the butyl on the boat instead of the window....grrrr or DOH!

Butyl strip around the edge of the window next time. I have "repaired" 2 leaks by stuffing more butyl in, it's forgiving stuff. My first choice was glue/sealant, but I'm happy with my learning experience! :D
 
northwind said:
Rebedded mine this winter, used buytl rubber tape, very easy to do and not messy.
Click to expand...

Have to agree, buytl tape is just so much better, Sikaflex if it bonds will rip the gelcoat off when you try to remove, if it doesn't bond it leaks! Wish I had learn't about it a long time ago. My 4 windows all went in first time without a leak.

Yoda
 
An update.
I contacted Sika who confirmed that 291i is not suitable due mainly to UV and also for not being able to cope with the differential thermal expansion PVC windows suffer.
So I have got some 295 UV which is the right stuff.

A couple of questions please.

The proper process is to use Sika cleaner 226 and Sika primer 209N

They are both very expensive so I am looking for alternatives.
The cleaner is basically Isoproponol which is basically alcohol AFAIK.
So I will use a bit of bio ethanol here possibly.

The primer is AFAIK dilute polyurethane and I can find no real substitute.

Q Have any forumites had good results using 295 UV without the primer on Perspex/acetate windows ?
 
jakeroyd said:
An update.
I contacted Sika who confirmed that 291i is not suitable due mainly to UV and also for not being able to cope with the differential thermal expansion PVC windows suffer.
So I have got some 295 UV which is the right stuff.

A couple of questions please.

The proper process is to use Sika cleaner 226 and Sika primer 209N

They are both very expensive so I am looking for alternatives.
The cleaner is basically Isoproponol which is basically alcohol AFAIK.
So I will use a bit of bio ethanol here possibly.

The primer is AFAIK dilute polyurethane and I can find no real substitute.

Q Have any forumites had good results using 295 UV without the primer on Perspex/acetate windows ?
Click to expand...

Ask yourself, do you want to do it right or again.
 
Don't grr to me about leaky windows. I am holed up in Arisaig looking forward to more rain with leaky everything. She is a wooden boat and is in perpetual attempt to sink either from leaks above or below. Captain Trollys solved a few of them but unfortunately even he can not solve them all. This winter, if all goes to plan, I will strip the decks and make good. Hopefully by next season we will only sink from below!
 
jakeroyd said:
An update.
I contacted Sika who confirmed that 291i is not suitable due mainly to UV and also for not being able to cope with the differential thermal expansion PVC windows suffer.
So I have got some 295 UV which is the right stuff.

A couple of questions please.

The proper process is to use Sika cleaner 226 and Sika primer 209N

They are both very expensive so I am looking for alternatives.
The cleaner is basically Isoproponol which is basically alcohol AFAIK.
So I will use a bit of bio ethanol here possibly.

The primer is AFAIK dilute polyurethane and I can find no real substitute.

Q Have any forumites had good results using 295 UV without the primer on Perspex/acetate windows ?
Click to expand...

Answer: No. Use the primer and the sikaflex will stick. (It will also be a b*$£&rd to get off in the future).

Yoda
 
Thanks for your replies.
Will order some primer 209
Does not seem to be that widely available so they have me by the goulies price wise

Heigh Ho
 
Pmagowan, I feel your pain. A leak in a boat is a miserable thing.
My boat was built in 2000 and has been bone dry up to the last 2 years when almost every window has leaked. Their construction makes the bond totally exposed to UV so it' probably that the original builders adhesive is at the end of its life.
Reading your post reminded me. Many years ago in complete and utter ignorance I bought a 1950's National 12 dingy. It was clinker built with copper nails and a bit nailsick and twisty (the hull I mean when sailing)
Used to take it sailing on Bala lake in North Wales.
We used to arrive on Friday evening and slip it off the tailor into the shallows.
It would sink immediately horrifying people who watched.
In the morning when the clinker had swelled we would bail it out and sail.
It would still leak pretty impressively when sailing hard.
 
jakeroyd said:
Thanks for your replies.
Will order some primer 209
Does not seem to be that widely available so they have me by the goulies price wise

Heigh Ho
Click to expand...

If you use the primer, you will never get the window off gain!!!!

Siko 295 UV has a very short shelf life. Do not buy it off the shelf - order it. That's why you almost never see it in the Chandlers

Also 295 is compatible with Acrylics - 291 is definitely not.
 
Thanks for the warning Chris.
I don't want it to come off again but hopefully remain sealed up:-)

The trick is to get the correct gap without having it squirting out all over the place.
I will put too much on rather than too little for obvious reasons.
 
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