Leaking window

FergusM

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A couple of years ago, when I bought my current boat, I asked the yard to replace the windows.I was a bit surprised and disappointed, this year, to see some books in the shelf underneath the window getting wet. I tried tightening up a little on the screws fastening the perspex, and was horrified to find some of them just spinning, they had no grip at all. I withdrew the one at the leak, and saw it was a self-tapper with the tip cut off. When I reinserted it and screwed it fully in, and pushed with the screwdriver, some water squeezed out above the window. When I released the pressure on the screwdriver, I could see the window easing away from the cabin side, and the bead of water sinking back down.

My first reaction was to think about using a larger size of screw, hoping that it would bite into fresh grp, and grip. A complication is that the screws all round the windows are matching, with a black finish, so a new one will be obvious. I could try a dab of Humbrol paint on it, I suppose. I would rather not have to drill larger holes in the perspex - there is too much of risk of cracking it.

I don't want to try adding bedding compound round the outside - it always looks awful, and is a dead giveaway.

I would prefer not to have to remove and rebed the window, as the boat is ashore out of doors. The bedding should be in good condition, but the window is clearly not being pulled against it by any clamping pressure from the screw. I fear it may come to this, however.

Is there any way I can make the existing screw bite?

Does anyone have any other ideas?

Back around 1970, I remember reading a story in PBO in which the author described the lousy work and sharp practice he had met at boatyards, and he concluded by saying that the only way to get a job done right was to do it yourself. 45 years later, and not a lot seems to have changed.
 
What's at the back of it? Can you get a couple of bolts in? Unless you can get some really good pressure on it and then some Captain Tolley's on it then....
 
Yachtsaila

My boat is also a Hunter Horizon, a 21, the second Horizon I have owned.

There is no frame or nuts on the inside. The lining turns neatly over the edge of the window cut-out. As far as I can see, the screws must be self tappers catching on the GRP. If someone who has fitted out a Hunter is any the wiser, I would be happy to know precisely how it fits.
 
Fergus, this suggestion is a bit of a bodge but I have used it successfully when needs must - find a thin piece of timber, insert in the hole (as though you were fitting a Rawlplug) and then follow it with the self-tapper. The reduced hole size should encourage the screw to grip the GRP and bite.

I have given up using "general" contractors; they universally make a pigs ear of most jobs. I use specialist guys for their particular skill and then do the rest myself.

rob
 
Although trying to make good would be the best option, I would second the use of Captain Tolley's. I solved a tiresome and quite brisk window leak in my old Sadler with this and the result was almost permanent.
 
Having just resealed all of my windows this year I think I would just bite the bullet and remove/refit it. You could use an epoxy filler in the holes and then redrill them.
 
Having just resealed all of my windows this year I think I would just bite the bullet and remove/refit it. You could use an epoxy filler in the holes and then redrill them.

+1.

Is it a sandwich construction? If so, might be worth a dig to see if inside is ok, and if all the holes need sealing up properly.
 
I had my chainsaw repaired and some of the self tappers into grp were not holding. The repair guy pushed a short length of strimmer line into the hole, then screwed the self tapper home. Still working perfectly several years later.
 
Yachtsaila

My boat is also a Hunter Horizon, a 21, the second Horizon I have owned.

There is no frame or nuts on the inside. The lining turns neatly over the edge of the window cut-out. As far as I can see, the screws must be self tappers catching on the GRP. If someone who has fitted out a Hunter is any the wiser, I would be happy to know precisely how it fits.

I've just replaced a couple of windows on a Horizon 26. They were self tappers through the solid GRP finishing in the Vinyl behind and the grip was limited. I've bolted through the coachroof - though on one it seems I did a poor job with the Sikaflex :( - perhaps that Sika primer isn't so optional afterall. I'm going to have to re-seal but I'm pondering butyl tape this time to avoid the mess.
 
It's pressure you need so why not, as suggested, replace the screws with bolts or inter-screws. I did this on a Cobra 750 and cut a teak trim to go inside and to spread the load. In the end I thought it looked good and it stopped the leaking. I too used the black sika without primer and regretted it. But the bolts established a seal despite the lack of complete adhesion to the Perspex.
 
It's pressure you need so why not, as suggested, replace the screws with bolts or inter-screws.

As the owner over the years of 3 Hunters, I would second the use of interscrews. It's the only way you are going to get the pressure needed. As for sealant, I would second the use of a butyl tape rather than a Sika type sealant. Much cleaner and easier (don't ask me how I know!!) I would also suggest adopting the inner teak trim partly to spread the load and also it would look much better.

FWIW on my present Hunter, during the build I abandoned the Hunter supplied windows and replaced with proper glazed units with frames.
 
WP_20140527_18_00_09_Pro.jpg


Above is a photo of a window on my 26 while I was re-lining. The drip is condensation. You can just see the cup washers that the window is bolted through into, with nuts sitting in them, painted to match the vinyl.

There is also a but of good quality ply that I'm using as a frame surround to cover the messy vinyl edge at the window. I've painted this to match the now painted bulkheads in the boat and it looks ok to me!
 
It's pressure you need so why not, as suggested, replace the screws with bolts or inter-screws. I did this on a Cobra 750 and cut a teak trim to go inside and to spread the load. In the end I thought it looked good and it stopped the leaking. I too used the black sika without primer and regretted it. But the bolts established a seal despite the lack of complete adhesion to the Perspex.

Interscrews are the way to go. You can find them in stainless if you search around. Not cheap. However worth the money I think. My Jeanneau interscrews were originally aluminium alloy (anodised) but many had crumbled. When I fitted new perspex this year- I replaced ALL (100+) with stainless button-headed hex sockets- flat bladed on the inside.
They look good and won't rot! I wouldn't dream of screwing direct into the coach roof under the perspex....
 
Same problem in my previous boat a Hunter 27tK (factory finished), The previous owner had lined the cabin sides with ply to cover the receding stuck on sponge vinyl around the windows and made glass fibre trim to finish against the window. The window started leaking and some of the screws were spinning so we replaced the windows and used a butyl tape to seal them, using stainless steel bolts with allen screw heads (not counter sunk) instead of the countersunk self tappers with ss and nylon washers inside, all hidden behind the ply panelling.
 
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I also have a Hunter 27 tk - I agree the method of screwing leaves a lot to be desired - if you use too big a screw it starts to poke through the headlining.
On thing I have learned though is not to bed the window on sikaflex or on the original rubber sheet gasket. I have used a closed cell epdm gasket material - with double sided adhesive - this will take up the imperfections and will seal even when the screws aren't very tight..... works for me.

JuSw
 
Had a similar issue.
My advice would be to not use Capitan Tolleys and use one of the methods suggested.
If you can see a gap it's too big for CT.
It will just run everywhere and be impossible to remove.
How do I know!
 
Many thanks for all the responses.

I used some strimmer cord, and that seemed to deal with some of the leaks. There was no visible gap, and I did use Captain Tolleys. It appears to have worked.
 
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