Leaking toilets

[Paul_H]

Had an SL400 for years. Likely to be leak from the seal for the pump lever (21/29) which can be fixed without resorting special spares. Water runs down pump housing and appears to come from the inlet valve housing (24).

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[dickh]

In my opinion, throw it away and get another toilet, I've had two and both have leaked and been difficult to repair. I gave up on both of them and replaced with a Jabsco/Par which to date I've been pleased with.

<hr width=100% size=1>dickh
I'd rather be sailing... /forums/images/icons/smile.gif

 

[mainshiptom]

Re: Hey Peggie!

Two spoon full of olive oil ! Has to be virgin olive oil ! Once a week !

Not in marinas , since they think it a diesel spill !

Tom

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[HeadMistress]

Several possibilities

I got the drawing...since it's not an exploded drawing, it took me a little time to figure out where all the gubbies(?) go...and I may not quite have it yet.

Paul, if your diagnosis is correct, wouldn't the toilet leak whether the inlet seacock is open or not? (as I said, I'm still sorting out where things go)

I'm inclined to think that it's a rubber failed seal/o-ring (25/43)...perhaps combined with a failed or corroded inlet valve spring (13).

I saw a handwritten note on the parts list...couldn't make out all of it, but it appeared to refer to using bleach in the toilet. That's a MAJOR no-no--as is the use of any household chemical bowl cleaners--in any marine toilet...bleach destroys the rubber parts in addition to corroding any internal metal parts such as the inlet valve spring. So if you've been using bleach in the toilet, that very well may be the cause of your problem.

As for lubricating, the SL 400 shouldn't need much, if any...it has a diaphragm pump, so no parts are rubbing against each other to require it. There are two approaches to lubricating piston/cylinder pumps--a never-ending weekly dose of oil down it that just washes out in a few flushes...or a single annual "dose" of thick teflon grease--the same grease that's in (or should be) in every new toilet when it leaves the factory--applied to the pump--a job that takes all of 10 minutes:

Remove the top of the pump...on a Jabsco, that only requires removing 6 screws...or on the newest ones, just loosening a nut. Put a HEALTHY squirt of teflon grease in the pump...pump a few times to spread it all over the inside of the cylinder...put the top back on...you're done. That's all the lubrication the toilet should need to work smoothy for at least year. Adding this job to your preventive maintenance list will also double or triple the time that rubber seals and o-rings last. It's also the best lubricant for y-valves, manual bilge pumps and seacocks.

Teflon grease can be found at most auto parts stores and swimming pool supply stores. It's sold in the US under many different brand names...the best is SuperLube. Teflon lubricant also comes in liquid and aerosol...you ONLY want the thick one that comes in a tube.

<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987

 

[scrumblebunny]

Re: Several possibilities

I'm really grateful to all you people, I didn't know where to start. We're new to this having just traded up from a Tornado catamaran.... didn't have loos to worry about with that! I think I'm going for the o ring on the operating spindle first. Thanks very much.
AlexB

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[Hardley]

Just seen your posting, agree with Rickwat part No 24 is the most likely problem, I solved it by removing the pipe, put the ends in hot water and pushed it back in place.
Another possibility is part No13 a rubber gasket,that could be perished.
I would buy a parts kit, they are now in short supply and you are sure to need other parts in the future.
Best of luck,
Hardley.


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[HeadMistress]

I hope he'll come back and tell us...it's the only way I'll know whether my diagnosis was even close.

<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987

 

[scrumblebunny]

Hi Peggy
I have not tried any of the suggestions yet. The boat came out of the water this week so I'm going down today to tidy her up. I'm going to have a look at the loo then.

Alex B ( female)

<hr width=100% size=1>AlexB

 

[pvb]

We must have missed something here. If the toilet only leaked when the inlet seacock was open, how are you going to find the fault when the boat's out of the water?

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[HeadMistress]

Simple: remove the head intake hose from the thru-hull and stick it in a bucket of water--which is the way toilets are tested out of the boat on the bench.

<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987

 

[pvb]

Don\'t think so...

From the symptoms described in the original post, don't you think that the leak might be caused by the head of water outside the boat pushing its way in? Most sea toilets are installed so that the bulk of the pump mechanism is under the waterline. Whilst I respect your experience in the toilet world, I can't see that simply putting the intake hose in a bucket would simulate that.

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[HeadMistress]

Re: Don\'t think so...

According to his original post, it only happens when he pumps flush water in, so it should be replicatable using a bucketful of water. He'd want to flush all the sea water out for storage anyway, and the bucket is the way to do that...followed by sticking the hose in a jug of antifreeze if the toilet and tank are to be winterized.

However, even the problem is "ram water," it can still be replicated on the hard by connecting the intake to a garden hose and turning on the water. A little trickier to do, though...requires some fittings to create a leak-proof connection between the intake hose and the garden hose and care not to have too much pressure 'cuz too much can damage the toilet.

<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987

 

[scrumblebunny]

Re: Don\'t think so...

My intention was to stick the inlet hose in a bucket of water and then use the inlet pump to see what happens.

Today I have removed the operating spindle, gland nut and swivel ring and am now attempting to replace the o ring. If a new o ring fails I am going to replace the inlet valve and spring. Although how I am going to get the flushing tube removed I 'm not quite sure at the moment as it seems to have been heat shrunk on to the inlet nozzle and the nozzle on the back of the basin.



<hr width=100% size=1>AlexB

 

[HeadMistress]

Removing hoses

Warm the hose a bit with a blow dryer to soften and expand it a bit. If you opt to use a heat gun instead, be VERY careful...you only want to WARM the hose...overheating it can damage it.

To put the hose back onto the fitting, warm it again and lubricate both the fitting and the inside of the hose with dish soap. Don't use any grease, and no sealant...double hose clamps, with the screws on opposing sides of the hose.

<hr width=100% size=1>Peggie Hall
Specializing in marine sanitation since 1987