Leaking raw water pump.

[rays]

Spotted some corrosion on aft end of engine but couldn't spot the leak. Thought that it was from the water pump which had previously been repaired. After sitting behind engine for 10 minutes and watching the pump have now seen drip from back of water pump. The shaft seal (?) is leaking. Engine is 10 years old but only done 300 hours. We are heading off to Holland in two weeks so need to fix the problem. Is it worth getting the pump stipped down and the seals/shaft replaced, re-fitted and tested or would it be better (if a bit more expensive) to get a new pump and (when time permits) service the old one and keep it for a spare? One thing is certain, I don't want gto set off across the North sea with a problem pump!

What would you do?

 

[KenMcCulloch]

You don't say what make/model of engine, and I am no expert but here's my 5p worth: I had a similar leak from the water pump on my engine (Yanmar 1GM10) when I took over the boat last year, my engine was like yours about 10 years old but low hours. Using helpful advice from this forum I serviced the pump myself (new seals, basically) when she came out in December and that seems to have done the trick with no sign of leaks after 20 hours or so running this season. If it's only dripping slightly it's unlikely to totally fail. Go to any motorcyle shop and buy a spray of Scotoiler FS 365 Protector to spray around the area every few days which will keep the salt water from doing too much damage until you have time to fix the leak.

 

[rays]

It's a Volvo with a Jabsco pump. Is Scotoiler FS 365 the same as WD40?

 

[affinite]

I had a similar problem on my Yanmar 3GM30 last year. Considered buying the parts but it required workshop facilities to press the new seals on to the shaft so I took the approach you outlined. Bought new (ouch) and kept old for later refurb away from the boat.

 

[KenMcCulloch]

[ QUOTE ]
It's a Volvo with a Jabsco pump. Is Scotoiler FS 365 the same as WD40?

[/ QUOTE ] No, Scotoiler FS365 is not the same as WD40. It's made to keep mototbikes from rotting away as a result of wet and salty road dirt. It worked well on my bikes and I find it equally effective at keeping the rusty lump in my boat from going any rustier.

 

[VicS]

Basically just one seal that needs replacing. However after 10 years regardless of the amount of use the impeller is long overdue for a change.

It is probably worth replacing the other seal (the oil seal between pump and engine) as well but with little use that might not be necessary.

Also check the bearings and inspect the shaft especially where it passes though the water seal. With more use the end cover and the wear-plate or pump body should be inspected.

An overhaul kit may be available which may contain most if not all of these items.

Don't delay changing the leaking seal, they don't heal up and if it suddenly worsens it could lead to water entering the crankcase as the oil seal is fitted to keep oil in but not necessarily water out.

 

[fiveflipflops]

Hi



Just repaired my leaking water pump on our westerly typhoon, engine volvo penta 2003. Took less than a hour very easy to do. Raw water pump service kit from keyparts about 60 pounds delivered. You can just buy the seals 10 pounds ish. i replaced the lot and kept the old useable bits as spares.

 

[Avocet]

If you pull it apart, you'll probably be able to get part numbers off the seals. Any bearing factor should be able to find you a replacement if it's a standard lip seal. MAKE SURE to get one with a stainless or bronze spring in it if it's the sort with a spring behind the lip.

Also check the shaft itself for ridges.

 

[neale]

You want to read this months MBM /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Page 92 deals with this exact problem on a VP pump.