Leak inspiration

[Adrianwool]

Any ideas?

I have a freshwater leak which puts a gallon or so of water into my forward bilge after a heavy fall of rain. Things tried so far

Anchor locker covered to prevent any water draining through any defect, anchor locker inspected dry!, hose from locker dry!. water still turning up in bilge.

Diesel fillers & pumpout covered - water still in bilge.

Engine air intakes covered - water still in bilge

Engine box perfectly dry it has two sealing bulkheads and is consequently self contained from the rest of the boat.

Cleats examined minutely, no signs of damage looseness or cracks

Window and windscreen seals intact and dry.

Inspection with a lamp shows no dampness in all areas (including those where you need to be a double jointed monkey!.

The rubber strake between the hull and topdeck and hull is intact and undamaged

AAGH inspiration PLEASE

 

[kashurst]

what make and model of boat is it? someone else may have had similar experience

 

[blueglass]

have you looked at the deck/flybridge drains (don't know what kindof boat) these are often connected by hose to the exit point - any leak in the hose can end up inside the boat.

 

[Adrianwool]

Sorry should have said Nimbus 3400 Europa, I am also having a new canopy made, just in case thats the problem

 

[Salty John]

It's often helpful to sprinkle talcum powder around the area surrounding the bilge. The trickle run will show itself up and you can then, at least, determine if the origin is port, starboard, fore, aft etc. Leaks are almost never from the obvious place, they work their way from the most remote spots to show up, usually, over my bunk.

 

[cataldo]

we used to have a sealine 350 flybridge on a swinging
mooring and in roly conditions the sea water used to
come back in the bilge outlet pipes,sealine raised these
outlets on later boats..

 

[boatmaster]

It's often helpful to sprinkle talcum powder around the area surrounding the bilge. The trickle run will show itself up and you can then, at least, determine if the origin is port, starboard, fore, aft etc. Leaks are almost never from the obvious place, they work their way from the most remote spots to show up, usually, over my bunk.

This is a good method, one i use too - except i use chalk, anyhting that washes off easily will give you a good lead as too where you need to be looking. i tend to find these irritating leaks, if not windows tend to be deck fittings (particularly pulpit rails bases) or even rubbing strake fixings. good luck.

 

[Bassplayer]

I have been chasing a leak on the Fairey for 5 months now! Found the port fuel tank is actually sitting in 6" of water, so it is probably seeping from that. Going to pump that out on Boxing Day. Like the talc idea though.... Good luck anyway. Wooden boats are worse as the water travels through the wood and even trying to trace the leak with a moisture meter doesn't work!

 

[Assassin]

One other option is to use a product called drain stain, this is available from builders merchants and is used to identify leaks in drains and water outlets.

This is simply mixed with water and applied by pouring or through a jet wash if it has a detergent tank and leaves a coloured streak along its path. Being water soluble it is easily washed off and is non toxic so no risk of damage.

 

[mont]

Assume you've established source type of water. Bit of food colouring added in fresh water system sorts that one.
I'd suggest that at your age of boat the original sealant on fittings is probably suspect now. I chased various minor leaks for a long time and found that lots of the fittings whilst appearing sound had dodgy sealant.
Think the talc idea is good one at least you can follow the source.
You may find dependant on direction of prevailing rain, any heal of boat etc that sometimes it leaks, sometimes not.
very best of luck !

 

[rule the waves]

Screws ?

Just my little "input": on my boat (a Larson Cabrio 274), fresh water comes in through the rubbing strake. I mean: my rubbing strake is an aluminium rail set in plastic above and under, simply screwed to the hull (separation line) with self-tapping screws straight through the 5 cm overlap between hull and deck. Unless this is very very carefully done and sealed afterwards, it is NEVER completely sealed off. It's also hard to correct...e.g. it is hard to reach the inside of the screws in the (extended)bathing platform, and from the outside only you can't get it done 100%. I've even tried to cover it from the inside with Rubson Liquid Rubber for roofs - which partially worked I must say.