Leading lines aft advice?

[NUTMEG]

Evening all. Taking advantage of the first sunny day in months, son and I went to boat to fit rope clutch to my W21 as per earlier thread (thanks for advice re cabin roof thickness and ply backing plate etc). Sorry to ask another numpty question, but nothing on telly at the mo.

We ran the main halyard down the outside of the mast, through a new ballraced block to turn it to the deck organiser then straight to the new Lewmar clutch, so far so good. But when I went to raise the mainsail it was very hard to pull up. Tried pulling on the main halyard at the mast, no problem, so the track etc are all free running. The angle between the turning block and deck organiser is about 35' so less then 90'. But the vertical angle between the turning block and the deck organiser is a bit steep and this seems to be where the problem lies.

Can anyone throw some light on max permissible vertical angle leading to a deck organiser? Should we 'block' up the organiser to reduce the vertical 'lead in' angle? Should they only run 'flat'?

 

[VicS]

I think I understand what you are saying.

You have the deck organiser lying flat on the deck but the halyard coming of the turning block at the foot of the mast is a bit above the level of the deck.

This means that the halyard is not running fair onto the deck organiser.

If that's right then what you have to do is mount the deck organiser at an angle to the deck, angled up towards the turning block.

I thought they were available on angled bases for just that purpose, if not then a wedge shaped packing piece is needed under the deck organiser.

 

[simonfraser]

you've got to get the halyard to run into the clutch parallel with the bore of the clutch.

Fit a shallower block, or a new deck pad lower down ?

 

[NUTMEG]

Ah!

Thanks chaps. VicS you have it in one, my old boat does not have a flat streamlined deck, rather shaped (and built) like a brick ****house!

So, we now need to remove the deck organiser, and the Sikaflex, and pack it out an inch or so. Why is nothing on a boat ever straight forward?

Still, soon be summer!

 

[Seajet]

The much easier way would be to fit a 'lacing eye' - small stainless steel strip raised in the middle, a small foot at each end to take through deck bolts ( which will require backing plates or penny washers ).

If you are lucky and the right block is availabe - DO make it a ball bearing block - you can attach it direct with the lacing eye, otherwise the shortest strong shackle you can get.

There are deck blocks for this job, held vertical by coiled springs around the base, but frankly they are unnecessary, once the line is through the block it will take up the right position anyway.

One thing I did on my boat was to fit double block mast sheaves, so the halliard whatever comes out between upper and lower ball bearing sheaves. Simpe to fit if one is comfortable working with alloy, and they help reduce the friction on the whole set-up.

BTW the inverted 'U' bolt in the photo' foreground is a harness point ( with a big backing pad !) - I've found this an ideal place for them on my Anderson 22 ( one each side of the mast foot ), it's inboard so less opportunity to be washed far overboard, and a harness line can be clipped to it and left; so I can clip my harness to it while still in the cockpit before going on deck, and it has enough range to let me reach the foredeck etc.

 

[NUTMEG]

Good idea...

Thanks Seajet, two really good ideas there. I like the U bolt, not enough room for jackstays on my boat and have wondered how to 'use' tethers. Nice one. I like the idea of the block too. I did not fancy setting the deck organiser 2 inches up in the air on a block of wood. A bit messy looking. Thanks.

 

[Quandary]

Leading halyards, barber haulers etc.

Barton have recently introduced 'high load eyes' in a broad range of five different sizes for varying sizes of lines or tethers, neat solution, worth considering for anyone trying to improve the lead of individual lines from mast foot or side deck.