Laying up....what should I have done?

Tim O

Tim O

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I'm learning a lot,mostly it seems by making mistakes!

I took my boat out of the water in February, intending that it would be a few months to deal with points in the survey then back in the water in the summer. For lots of reasons that has turned into 10 months and is likely to be another one yet.

I be become aware I should have done stuff to lay up the engine properly...and other systems?.Eberspacher? Fuel?....but I didn't, apart from charging the batteries from mains as often as possible.

No use crying over spilt milk

So my questions are:
What key things should I have done?
What could I do NOW to prevent any further problems?
What do I need to check before relaunch?

All advice welcomed! No lectures I can do that myself in the mirror!!!
 
Tim O said:
All advice welcomed! No lectures I can do that myself in the mirror!!!
Click to expand...

See Practical Boat Owner's handy laying up guide in the October 2016 issue. Also in the October 2015, 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006 (that's enough issues - Ed.) issues. I recently found a copy of PBO number 4 when clearing a house, it's got a handy laying up guide in it as well, though in those days it was more about how to stop your Silhouette rotting away than making sure your pressurised hot water system stayed in tip-top condition/
 
Point taken....I could go buy a magazine

I suppose I was more after advice on what, given that I haven't done all the things that I should have if I had read a magazine at the time,a re the critical things I should check now before restarting engine for instance?
 
Why don't PBO do an annual article on What To Do If You've Been A Humpty and Not Followed Our Laying Up Advice?;)
 
Tim O said:
Point taken....I could go buy a magazine

I suppose I was more after advice on what, given that I haven't done all the things that I should have if I had read a magazine at the time,a re the critical things I should check now before restarting engine for instance?
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Don't worry about it. Just check the engine has oil and coolant in it, but take the raw water impeller out to check it. This will drain much of the raw water out. Replace the impeller before you start the engine when it is in the water. The engine should start immediately - the time you have left it is not so long!
 
Cool. Thanks Tranona. Was planning to check and possibly change impeller, also drain and change coolant water......oil will be ok left that long then?

What about the diesel in the tanks.....anything I should do there?
 
As the others have said it is not a long time so no panic.

If the engine is new to you, it is probably wise to do the full 750 hour service before launch.
It is vital to ensure that there is no water leakage from the rear of the heat exchanger where it is difficult to spot and absolutely double vital that the anode, which sits in that area, is still sound.
 
doug748 said:
absolutely double vital that the anode, which sits in that area, is still sound.
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+1
Tim: you should take one (or more) engine anodes with you. They generally last a season.
You might want to check out this site which offers screw-in zincs, considerably less expensive than buying the whole assembly every year. Note their rider about the two types of zinc holder: http://www.boatpartsandspares.co.uk/beta-anode-pencil-refill--free-postage-33-p.asp

You'll see that the same site offers assorted filters, belts and O-rings for Beta engines. It's worth getting a set of heat-exhanger O-rings. Beta recommends taking out the tube stack for cleaning every year. In my experience this is excessive for a boat mainly used in clean water: every two or three is sufficient. Be aware that there have been two types of heat exchanger and thus two spex of O-rings on some Beta engines: you'll need to specifiy the right ones.

Later heat exhangers are much easier to strip than early ones, although I've no idea of the cut-off date for yours. The engine's paperwork should make this clear but, if not, Beta are helpful people. You'll need the WOC number to identify the engine.
 
You should have disconnected the exhaust from the manifild/elbow, to avoid condensation in any cylinder which has the exhaust open.
A de-luxe job would involve squirting some oil/wd40 up there.
Or somehow totally dry the wet exhaust.

Some people say this is far more important than farting about with impellers....
 
Take the sails off - but you did say tanks so maybe a mobo - take anchor and chain/rope out and check, grease up your thru' hull fittings.
 
As for the Eberspächer (or any diesel air heater), no winterizing, just run it for an hour every few weeks (or more often if you're feeling cold), that'll keep it dry. It's not plumbed into anything but the diesel tank and air, so nothing can freeze (this is a different story for water/hydronic heaters).
 
Thanks, should have said it is a sailboat, 33ft Colvic Countess.

Presume the anode referred to is the one in the coolant system which I've checked and it is depleted so will be ordering a couple spares in.

I tried to start up the Eberspacher the other day and it didn't seem to want to start up.....it has one of the 801 controllers. I'm going to download the manual and see what it tells me. The blower function was fine, blowing cold air around but when I pressed the heat button nothing happened.......
 
Can I just echo, the remove exhaust tubing from the engine exhaust elbow, mentioned a few replies ago. French Marine detail a winterising service they offer, something along the lines of: The engine oil is changed, the cooling system is drained and filled with a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and inhibitor. Any cooling system anodes are changed. Engine drive belts are slackened. Fuel conditioners are added if required. Exhuasts and intakes are blanked. While I add, from general advice I receive, that starting your engine regularly is helpful, once every three to four weeks. If you have done the French M type routine this is not possible, unless you reconnect everything. I have also picked up that changing engine oil as last act before winter means the fresh oil has no water or acids in it. Engine can be wiped with oily rag and kept wrapped up, or covered. Especially, if you are like me and get tempted to do some sanding around it. Batteries need to be kept topped up, some advocate taking them home. Think about any fresh water tanks, heads, pipes that may suffer if any water freezes and drain them. Cheers
 
Tranona said:
Don't worry about it. Just check the engine has oil and coolant in it, but take the raw water impeller out to check it. This will drain much of the raw water out. Replace the impeller before you start the engine when it is in the water. The engine should start immediately - the time you have left it is not so long!
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Are you sure? Raw water cooled but check the engine has coolant in it .. then remove the impeller...? Don't you mean ensure the system is flushed with fresh water then drained?
 
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Yeah it's not raw water cooled it has separate freshwater coolant.

I will drain and add new coolant 50/50 mix.....does it need to be any special marine antifreeze or just a standard one?

I will put new anode in.

I will change oil.

Do I need to do anything about the diesel that has been sitting in the two tanks for ten months......check for diesel bug? (Don't know if previous owner had added a diesel treatment,) Check for Water in fuel? How would I carry out such checks.......?
 
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