latest gas regs

Graham_Wright said:
………only if they operate at 0.8 p.s.i!

My supply runs at around 7 bar (which is I guess you meant!).
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Typical gas regulators on boats operate at around 28mbar, which is therefore the pressure to which the gas solenoid is subjected. If your air tools operate at 7bar, that's actually 250 times higher than the pressure the gas solenoid is under. The point I was making is that your experience of leaks bears no relation to the conditions under which a gas solenoid operates.
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pvb said:
Typical gas regulators on boats operate at around 28mbar, which is therefore the pressure to which the gas solenoid is subjected. If your air tools operate at 7bar, that's actually 250 times higher than the pressure the gas solenoid is under. The point I was making is that your experience of leaks bears no relation to the conditions under which a gas solenoid operates.
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Didn't know that. It always seems scary when I crack a cylinder valve.

So, they never leak then?

I know I am paranoid and I went years without any concerns and no incidents but I am older now!

I would like a mechanical shut off that operated directly on the cylinder valve but which is remotely turned in the cabin.

Butane cylinders lend themselves to the (with a horizontal axis valve) but propane are more difficult.

Now - about the bubble detector location. Anyone?
 
pvb said:
The only sensible place to put a bubble detector is in the gas locker. If you can't do that, sell it.
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I know they are usually located in the gas locker but why? They are part of the LP system so why not locate them outside but adjacent to the locker. I could do that but there is no more space in my locker than is absolutely needed for a 907.
In my case, for historical reasons, there is a join in the copper pipe just outside the locker. I could fit one there without even increasing the number of joints.
 
VicS said:
In my case, for historical reasons, there is a join in the copper pipe just outside the locker. I could fit one there without even increasing the number of joints.
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Indeed you could.

One of the (many) reasons I have delayed the installation of my new gas pipe is because I can't decide how to terminate it at the locker end. At present it has a flange join with the rubber hose the other side; ideally I'd like to eliminate the join outside the locker.
 
VicS said:
I know they are usually located in the gas locker but why?
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The theory's fairly straightforward. The bubble tester only shows leaks downstream. If it's in the gas locker, any upstream leak will drain away safely. If it's outside the gas locker, any upstream leak could end up in the bilge.
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nigelmercier said:
Indeed you could.

One of the (many) reasons I have delayed the installation of my new gas pipe is because I can't decide how to terminate it at the locker end. At present it has a flange join with the rubber hose the other side; ideally I'd like to eliminate the join outside the locker.
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Get a bulk head fitting.......basically a straight union with a flange in the middle that can be screwed to the outside of the locker ....... but drill the "land" out of the centre of the union so that a copper pipe can pass right through with no join. Only fit an olive in the outer union, even cut the inner one off if you like. You can then seal the whole fitting to the locker wall and the pipe into the remaining union with the olive. You then have a totally gastight entry into the locker with no joins in the pipe.
 
pvb said:
The theory's fairly straightforward. The bubble tester only shows leaks downstream. If it's in the gas locker, any upstream leak will drain away safely. If it's outside the gas locker, any upstream leak could end up in the bilge.
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I understand that but would a tester outside the locker be better than no tester or is it just unacceptable to fit it outside the locker.
 
VicS said:
I understand that but would a tester outside the locker be better than no tester or is it just unacceptable to fit it outside the locker.
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Sure, you could fit one next to the cooker, just in case the flexible hose develops a leak. I just don't see the logic of fitting a bubble tester unless it's in the gas locker. Frankly, I think people are generally irrationally concerned about LPG safety on boats. The incidence of accidents is incredibly low, and if you look at the circumstances of most of the accidents, sheer carelessness is often the cause. As with many aspects of our society, this has become a "jobsworth" issue with "health and safety" being used as a justification for excessive regulation.
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VicS said:
Get a bulk head fitting.... but drill the "land" out of the centre of the union ...
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Yes, I have a bulkhead fitting at the moment. The pipe I'm using is plastic covered, so I will need to go up a size or two (I will have to measure the OD when I next visit), but that is a good idea, thank you.

Edit: note to self, thanks to Old Bilbo "outside diameter of 10.83mm - 11.02mm"
 
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Two years ago I overhauled our system.

The gas locker is on the side deck, nicely vented directly overboard.

Starting from the regulator We have about 8 inches of flexible pipe to the electric solenoid.

From there another 8 inches to the inlet side bubble leak tester, from the outlet side of the bubble leak tester the flexible pipe is joined to the OE imperial 5/16 inch thickwall copper pipe with about 3 inches of flexible pipe.

This copper pipe is barely 10 inches long as the gas locker is on the side deck right where the cooker is mounted inside. Sensible eh!

I have-for belt and braces reasons-added a conventional gas tap on the bulkhead by the cooker.This is joined using new compression fittings and flexible pipe. If the electric solenoid fails it can simply be bypassed and this tap used.

From this tap about 32 inches of flexible pipe join to the cooker, using the OE fitting for the cooker.

All connections were made using a pro O clip kit-left over from my racing days. If I do it again I have found a scource of SS clips that should be better.

A poster asked why the bubble leak tester should be in the gas locker. They need to be as close to the scource of gas as possible so they test the longest possible run of pipe to the appliance, and the appliance itself.

IMHO, they are one of the best bits of safety kit going in regard to gas on boats.
 
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sailorman said:
I understand that there should be no joints outside the locker until the cooker isolating cock
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This is based on what? Certainly not the BBS where in fact 7.8.3 and 7.8.4 cover the requirements regarding joints in the LP pipework
 
rotrax said:
A poster asked why the bubble leak tester should be in the gas locker. They need to be as close to the scource of gas as possible so they test the longest possible run of pipe to the appliance, and the appliance itself.
IMHO, they are one of the best bits of safety kit going in regard to gas on boats.
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But I have two choices : No bubble tester or a one immediately outside the locker.
The chances of a leak developing in the couple of inches of copper pipe between the locker and the leak detector are negligible.
 
VicS said:
But I have two choices : No bubble tester or a one immediately outside the locker.
The chances of a leak developing in the couple of inches of copper pipe between the locker and the leak detector are negligible.
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And the chances of a leak developing in the rest of it are equally negligible.
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pvb said:
And the chances of a leak developing in the rest of it are equally negligible.
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I agree. The only likely places for leaks are joints, and if you put a bubble tester outside the locker you have added two joints in unventilated places. On my boat that would double the risk.
 
JumbleDuck said:
I agree. The only likely places for leaks are joints, and if you put a bubble tester outside the locker you have added two joints in unventilated places. On my boat that would double the risk.
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But as I said earlier there is already a joint ( there is no objection to properly made compression joints) where i would might put the tester......... Which id fitted would check the most likely palce for a leak which is the flexible hose to the cooker

O
 
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VicS said:
But as I said earlier there is already a joint ( there is no objection to properly made compression joints) where i would might put the tester......... Which id fitted would check the most likely palce for a leak which is the flexible hose to the cooker
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Ah. I forgot that joint. Why not put the tester where the cooker hose joins the copper pipe, then?
 
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