latest gas regs

Scomber

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hi
just about to replace all gas pipe/ fittings/and new spinflo
anyone got up to date info regarding simplest system which if tested by competent person would be deemed acceptable
cylinder out on transom
8mm pipe (one run)in conduit for full length or not?
1 bulkhead fitting out to reg and cylinder
1 on off near cooker
flexi ss hose to cooker
how many of you have some sort of in line tester(other than your nose!)
thanks
 
hi
just about to replace all gas pipe/ fittings/and new spinflo
anyone got up to date info regarding simplest system which if tested by competent person would be deemed acceptable
cylinder out on transom
8mm pipe (one run)in conduit for full length or not?
1 bulkhead fitting out to reg and cylinder
1 on off near cooker
flexi ss hose to cooker
how many of you have some sort of in line tester(other than your nose!)
thanks

Acceptable to who? MCA? I see you have a family Sadler, so it's your choice, no rules or regulations! It all sounds normal, except... is your bottle actually on the transom? That's unusual, IMO it's going to get ripped away by a line or something, and it will go rusty and be bad for your trim. So does she have a gas locker ( perhaps it's now used for something else) because that is the best place.
The cock near the cooker should not be TOO close, you should be able to operate it freely, without having to reach your arm over a blazing frying pan for example!
Apart from the bottle location, you will have the same set-up as me.
I use a rubber flexible pipe to the cooker (gimballed) which is cheap and easily inspected and replaced, if it chafes (which it does)
cheers Jerry
 
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hi
just about to replace all gas pipe/ fittings/and new spinflo
anyone got up to date info regarding simplest system which if tested by competent person would be deemed acceptable
cylinder out on transom
8mm pipe (one run)in conduit for full length or not?
1 bulkhead fitting out to reg and cylinder
1 on off near cooker
flexi ss hose to cooker
how many of you have some sort of in line tester(other than your nose!)
thanks

Use the BSS chapter 7 as a guide and you wont go far wrong. New version never has been published as far as i know but 2005 version in its entirety at
http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/180428/bss guide 2005 complete web.pdf

Very simple system and a more complex sytem ( PBO Many years ago)

ac591497.jpg


363128ec.jpg
 
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Use the BSS chapter 7 as a guide and you wont go far wrong. New version never has been published as far as i know but 2005 version in its entirety at
http://www.boatsafetyscheme.org/media/180428/bss guide 2005 complete web.pdf

Very simple system and a more complex sytem ( PBO Many years ago)

ac591497.jpg

Many thanks for these. If I may offer a small addendum to the very simple system: the BSS says that when there is only one appliance, the cylinder valve counts as the shut-off and you don't need a separate tap by the appliance. Which is how it is on my boat. I've thought about adding a tap by the cooker, but decided against because it adds two more points of failure (the tap itself and a connection) and I can't really see any benefit. I'm thinking of fitting an solenoid valve at the cylinder, though.
 
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I'm thinking of fitting an solenoid valve at the cylinder, though.

I am nervous about solenoid shut-offs. If it is the only valve habitually used, can you be sure there are no weeps?

There is something reassuring about a manual valve. It would be nice to have a remote manual - straight on the bottle but the mechanical realisation has (so far) defied me.
 
8mm pipe (one run)in conduit for full length or not?

The BSS regulations don't allow pipes to be in conduit. This may or may not bother you. Their reasoning is that the pipe has to be accessible for visual inspection for damage. To my way of thinking, putting the pipe in conduit from the locker to the appliance makes a lot of sense:-

* the pipe is gently supported evenly along its length, rather than being subjected to numerous point loads
* the conduit will protect the pipe from accidental damage
* in the unlikely event of the rugged metal pipe suddenly deciding to fail, as long as the conduit is sealed to the pipe at the appliance end, any resulting leakage will be in the gas locker, not in the boat.
 
On Sunday at the CA Biscay section we had a useful talk from a member who has a business installing gas systems for several of the big name boatbuilders. His advice was that a single copper pipe, without bulkhead fittings if at all possible, was the optimum. Flexible hose at each end. Putting the copper through transparent plastic hose is a good way to protect it from wear and corrosion while satisfying the inspection requirements.
 
The BSS regulations don't allow pipes to be in conduit. This may or may not bother you. Their reasoning is that the pipe has to be accessible for visual inspection for damage. To my way of thinking, putting the pipe in conduit from the locker to the appliance makes a lot of sense:-

* the pipe is gently supported evenly along its length, rather than being subjected to numerous point loads
* the conduit will protect the pipe from accidental damage
* in the unlikely event of the rugged metal pipe suddenly deciding to fail, as long as the conduit is sealed to the pipe at the appliance end, any resulting leakage will be in the gas locker, not in the boat.

That's interesting. Some years ago I had to comply with the then BSS requirements, and had to run the 8mm copper in braided plastic pipe. Once it was done, it was fine, and I sealed the inboard end, although this did not seem to be recommended in the regs.
 
That's interesting. Some years ago I had to comply with the then BSS requirements, and had to run the 8mm copper in braided plastic pipe. Once it was done, it was fine, and I sealed the inboard end, although this did not seem to be recommended in the regs.

Conduit is usually opaque; transparent plastic pipe as you and Vyv have suggested may well get around the fussy BSS examiners.
.
 
On Sunday at the CA Biscay section we had a useful talk from a member who has a business installing gas systems for several of the big name boatbuilders. His advice was that a single copper pipe, without bulkhead fittings if at all possible, was the optimum. Flexible hose at each end. Putting the copper through transparent plastic hose is a good way to protect it from wear and corrosion while satisfying the inspection requirements.
That is how i did my system & with a gas cock @ the cooker + a dinghy access above the gas locker to enable turning off the bottles & use the change over valve
 
Another slight drift. I have a bubble detector but fitting it so that it is visible without descending into the cockpit locker (which in reality is so difficult it will not happen) is not easy.

Is is permissible/desirable to fit it in the cabin? Admittedly, there are two more joins in the run and it will not test leaks between it and the bottle but then leaks in the locker go overboard.

A minefield!
 
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