Kiwiprop SDC blade removal

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tawhiri

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Hi all

I need to remove the blades of my Kiwiprop SDC to replace the Vectran rope which feathers them in normal operation. It is the two blade model.
I am stuck with removing the split pin through the head of the allen key bolt securing the blade see picture.
I am unable to get behind the blade to release the split pin, and I can only pull it from the top, but is is not moving.
Does anybody have an advice on how to remove this split pin.

Thanks in advance Andrew
 

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I can't really read the photo but it doesn't look like a split pin. Maybe a roll pin? If so, they are usually drifted out but it doesn't sound like that is possible.

I wonder if you are supposed to grind/split/drill off the end until you can turn the Allen fastening?

Richard
 
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Have a look here for the manuals

Untitled Document

It looks the pin is not a split pin but a solid pin fixed in with loctite but they warn that the pim must protrude to allow removal. You may end up having to drill the pin out and fit a new one.
 
tawhiri said:
Hi all

I need to remove the blades of my Kiwiprop SDC to replace the Vectran rope which feathers them in normal operation. It is the two blade model.
I am stuck with removing the split pin through the head of the allen key bolt securing the blade see picture.
I am unable to get behind the blade to release the split pin, and I can only pull it from the top, but is is not moving.
Does anybody have an advice on how to remove this split pin.

Thanks in advance Andrew
Click to expand...

You may find the ......................................................
Beaten to it by a short head by Roger

The customer manual http://www.kiwiprop.org/pdf/Customer Manual.pdf is the one to read

But I note it says :
UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES REMOVE BLADES -EXCEPT FOR BROKEN BLADE REPLACEMENT
NB: THERE IS NO NEED TO REMOVE THE BLADES FOR NORMAL MAINTENANCE
 
If the pin was installed as directed with only a small amount of loctite of the right grade (i.e. not the high strength variety) it might just be possible to free it by gripping the end with pliers, but its pretty doubtful IMHO. As an aside if it was intended to be removed then a 4.2mm hole tapped M5 for a set screw would have been a much better arrangement. If it won't yield to persuasion with pliers can you get a cutting disk in a Dremel type tool to slot the top of the pin so that a screwdiver can be used to twist it back and forth to break the grip of the loctite? I actually doubt that will work but it may be worth trying. Usually heat from a blowlamp is the way to break the grip of loctite but that is ruled out by the presence of plastic parts.
 
Looking at the pic again it looks like someone has fitted a split pin as it looks like the head is visible.

If it is and there i a hole in th head of the split pin you nay be able to lever it out with a bent screwdriver. You couls also try to heat it up using a soldering iron in the split pin hole the try to lever it out.

If it is in fact a split pin I doubt it will be bent over as a normal split pin as the manual only talks about a round pil in a drilled hole held in wit loctite.
 
Norman_E said:
If the pin was installed as directed with only a small amount of loctite of the right grade (i.e. not the high strength variety) it might just be possible to free it by gripping the end with pliers, but its pretty doubtful IMHO. As an aside if it was intended to be removed then a 4.2mm hole tapped M5 for a set screw would have been a much better arrangement. If it won't yield to persuasion with pliers can you get a cutting disk in a Dremel type tool to slot the top of the pin so that a screwdiver can be used to twist it back and forth to break the grip of the loctite? I actually doubt that will work but it may be worth trying. Usually heat from a blowlamp is the way to break the grip of loctite but that is ruled out by the presence of plastic parts.
Click to expand...
Rogershaw said:
Looking at the pic again it looks like someone has fitted a split pin as it looks like the head is visible.

If it is and there i a hole in th head of the split pin you nay be able to lever it out with a bent screwdriver. You couls also try to heat it up using a soldering iron in the split pin hole the try to lever it out.

If it is in fact a split pin I doubt it will be bent over as a normal split pin as the manual only talks about a round pil in a drilled hole held in wit loctite.
Click to expand...
ITYWF that the legs of the split pins are splayed during installation
 
RichardS said:
I can't really read the photo but it doesn't look like a split pin. Maybe a roll pin? If so, they are usually drifted out but it doesn't sound like that is possible.

I wonder if you are supposed to grind/split/drill off the end until you can turn the Allen fastening?

Richard
Click to expand...
Ah .... I've looked again and the head of the split pin has suddenly jumped into view. I couldn't see it before. It doesn't change what I said about removing it but I suspect that it isn't supposed to be removed if there's no way of accessing the other end of it. If it was supposed to be removed, the manufacturer presumably wouldn't have used a split pin. :unsure:

Richard
 
Thanks all for the advice.
Well I did manage to get a grip on the easier of the two pins, and with a LOT of force, and two broken screw drivers, managed to pull the pin out enough to get my side cutters on to it. The side cutters made short work of it, by being able to get a good grip and levering it out 3mm at a time. I was quite surprised how long that pin was (60mm), and how deep it goes.
I am thinking of making a spilt pin puller for the more difficult pin of the two, which I can only move by about 1mm. This is not enough to get my side cutters on to it.
The reason for removing the blades is to replace the Vectran rope connected to them, which is totally worn out. Therefore the blades must be removed.

Thanks again Andrew
 

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Reading the assembly manual page 13 It talks about drilling a 5.1 mm hole an fitting a pin with loctite leaving it above the knurled surface.

The split pin seems to be a bodge looking at the assembly manual

http://www.kiwiprop.org/pdf/Assembly Manual.pdf

To me a better approach would be to tap the locking hole and fit a geub screw that can be removed with am allan key. Loctite on the upper thread would hold it in place but would allow easer removal.

To do this you would need a new nut to replace the bodged on you already have.
 
If the hole is 5.1mm I suggest tapping it 6mm which will give enough thread engagement as 6mm tapping size is actually 5mm and the small difference will have little effect. You will need a 6mm set screw, length is not critical but A4 stainless is preferable, but quite hard to find. These are A2 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/CONE-POI...a6cf27c94:g:DPgAAOSwK9hd~Jow&var=484301553338
All the ones on ebay in A4 stainless seem to be from China.
EDIT: Since the hole is only supposed to be 45MM deep it looks as if yours was drilled too deep. Has the over length split pin damaged the Vectran rope? In view of the depth required you won't easily find a long enough set screw so it might be better to buy a length of A4 studding and cut to length required and make a screwdriver slot in the end.
 
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I made this special tool for removing spit pins, which worked quite well. I am sure I could use this tool for something else, but I am not quite sure what else it is good for.

Thanks Andrew
 

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