Kiwiprop Greasing?

[savageseadog]

Has anyone greased their Kiwiprop? I've looked at the instructions. This is what it says about the greasing points:

"These have been chamfered to
accept a standard needle nosed grease point. You will need to remove the outer guard off the
needle."

What does this amount to practically? Do you fit a needle point greasing adapter to your grease gun? Is a grease gun necessary or would a syringe do? Does the needle merely rest on the outerpart of the hole or does the needle go right in?

 

[sailorman]

contact Full Circle he is the East Coast Expert on these matters

 

[Tranona]

No, you need a special grease gun which Kiwi will sell you -although probably available elsewhere if you know what to ask for. Important you do this regularly or you may find difficulty going into reverse, particularly if you have a low horsepower engine.

 

[FullCircle]

You can get a needle nose .....
Here
to fit any Sealey gun.

Shell Nautilus 2 or equivalent grease.

Or you could buy the (quite large) gun full of grease from Vecta marine, not badly priced really.

A grease gun is very necessary, as it will force the grease around the hub and spring mechanism, which is the bit that allows blissful use of reverse. Once per season absolute minimum.

As I sit in mud a fair bit, I remove the blades once a year, and remove the mud and sand from inside the blade holes. Then I manually grease the 3 shafts before reassembly, then I pump in a bit more until it comes dribbling out.

I no longer have any problems.

Interesting to note the New Zealand webiste is not recommending use in mud berths any more. /forums/images/graemlins/ooo.gif

 

[nimbusgb]

[ QUOTE ]
No, you need a special grease gun which Kiwi will sell you

[/ QUOTE ]

Just a needle nose nozzle for a regular grease gun

 

[TiggerToo]

It really is a 5 minute job. 10 minutes if you want to removethe baldes, clean them and put them back. And it could probably be done under water too (although I'd be afraid of losing the steel/titanium pins to the depths

 

[savageseadog]

[ QUOTE ]
It really is a 5 minute job. 10 minutes if you want to removethe baldes, clean them and put them back. And it could probably be done under water too (although I'd be afraid of losing the steel/titanium pins to the depths

[/ QUOTE ]

Thanks for the replies.

I have done prop work underwater. I got round the possible loss of bits by lashing a bucket into position.

Re The needle nose nozzle. I've not seen one, what is the outer sleeve it says to remove? Does the nozzle go right into the prop or does it rest on the hole more or less on the surface? If that's the case could I knock something up with a grease nipple and............ ?

 

[TiggerToo]

[ QUOTE ]
Does the nozzle go right into the prop or does it rest on the hole more or less on the surface? If that's the case could I knock something up with a grease nipple and............ ?

[/ QUOTE ]

there are a few greasing points as explained on the instructions: the ones on the hub are just holes you need to press the greasing gun point on (something like the contraption shown above from Ebay). For the blades, you need to remove screws (one each blade) and the pin holding the blade onto the prop: then pump the grease in until it starts to emerge from the hole. Do one blade at a time.

I am not sure what this "sleeve" is you are talking about. Why not get in touch with Alan Pollard at Vecta Marine: he and his wife are absolutely brill... and very helpful too.

 

[savageseadog]

[ QUOTE ]
I am not sure what this "sleeve" is you are talking about.

[/ QUOTE ]
It was in the manual as quoted by me above "You will need to remove the outer guard off the needle."