KAD32 SuperCharger - Fault Finding...

alt

alt

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Hi folks,
It's been a while since i've had to fault find on a KAD supercharger, trying to assist a friend.... supercharger is not cutting in, full-stop. Not above 1700 RPM, no kick-down etc. and the fuse is fine.

We suspect the electro-magnetic clutch, but, to fault find a little....

Can we apply 12v to the connector of the clutch and it should engage, if working?
Above 1700RPM, what voltage should we see coming from the other side of the connector? (ie. engine side, above 1700RPM)

I do have notes somewhere (can't find, of course!) about checking resistance on some side, but for the life of me can't remember.

I think the clutch shouldn't draw more than 3.5A, but that's not really the issue as it's not blowing anything... it's just not working!

Thanks all for any info.
 
Spotted that, thanks. I'm more after what the cottage should be and confirmation that applying 12v to the clutch is safe to do so and should engage the clutch... I did similar years ago but can't remember exactly
 
Could the supercharger electrical connector near the supercharger be disconnected and a multi meter connected to see whether the supercharger is receiving a voltage when the speed is in range or when the throttle is on max and the proximity sensor should activate the clutch.

Presumably the electrical connections in the black box to the speed relay and the circuit breaker and the multi pin plug connector have been checked/cleaned. Sometimes spade terminals can crack due to vibration/fatigue and electrical connections can become slack fitting due to corrosion.
 
Have a watch of my video. You can contact me via the email address in the video description.
I have a doc I can share with you for further testing. Most likely it is the speed relay that is faulty.

 
alt said:
Hi folks,
It's been a while since i've had to fault find on a KAD supercharger, trying to assist a friend.... supercharger is not cutting in, full-stop. Not above 1700 RPM, no kick-down etc. and the fuse is fine.

We suspect the electro-magnetic clutch, but, to fault find a little....

Can we apply 12v to the connector of the clutch and it should engage, if working?
Above 1700RPM, what voltage should we see coming from the other side of the connector? (ie. engine side, above 1700RPM)

I do have notes somewhere (can't find, of course!) about checking resistance on some side, but for the life of me can't remember.

I think the clutch shouldn't draw more than 3.5A, but that's not really the issue as it's not blowing anything... it's just not working!

Thanks all for any info.
Click to expand...
Place a flat blade screwdriver against the kick down switch , if it doesn’t work it’s the relay .
 
FatherTed said:
Have a watch of my video. You can contact me via the email address in the video description.
I have a doc I can share with you for further testing. Most likely it is the speed relay that is faulty.

Click to expand...
Many thanks - I have watched that video before! Will indeed look into that more when time allows.

I was just hoping there was an easy way to check if it was the electromagnetic clutch - last year, another friend had the same issue on a KAD32 (s/charger would not kick in, fulltop).... we took a chance and replaced the electromagnetic clutch and viola! it worked!
 
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