KAD32 problem - cant stop the engine

cruiserpaule

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Hello all,
I have a vessel with twin Volvo Penta KAD32 engines. Model year 2003.

Often after a trip - the engine on the Port side will not stop when I rotate the ignition key to stop the engine.

When I look at the engine, I see that the fuse is out.
If I push back the fuse, I can now turn off the engine.

Could it be that the relay or the speed relay into the blackbox on the engine is defect?

So far I have replaced the automatic fuse from port side with Starboard side => no better result

What can I do to test or exchange any parts ?
 
Something is overloading the engine electrical system. It could be a Volvo item or there may be another electrical device connected behind the dash. Engine bay fans connected to the ignition for example.

Dose everything work correctly (power trim, supercharger and instruments.

I have seen this a few times where the supercharger clutch electromagnet has burn out. They still work but draw too much current and cause the trip to blow.

It could also just be a faulty stop solenoid.
 
I mean it's not the solenoid in the supercharger.
Because, there a installed a switch for each engine to stop the supercharger.
The switch was off during my test. I take this option for driving slow and less gasoline consumption on the Netherland canals.
You are also to my opinion that is not the supercharger?

Power trim and trim tabs works fine and during my test I have not use these tools.

I should look behind the instruments on the cockpit.
It could be a short circuit in the Elektric.
I should check and clean the contacts with WD40.

What do you mean with "faulty stop solenoid" ?
Is that what "bluejasper2" means ? => A stop solenoid on fuel lnjection pump.
How can I test it before I buy an expensive, new spare part ?

I think, this component is only on the KAD43 installed.
For KAD32 I dont find it. (see exploded drawing)

Now I have to do much things.
I will test again asap on the coming weekend. Thanks all for the moment.
 
Test the purple wire from the ignition switch when in stop position for 12v positive supply, if no volts then itsthe ignition switch, then test the terminal on te switch on injection pump, for 12 v, if power there its th switch it may just have a bit of debris under it in which case thats why its not working, remove switch be carefull not to loose plunger and spring when you do it.
 
Hi volvopaul,
you mean the switch in the drawing below ?
I think, it seems good. There are no debris to see. Could it be when the engine is hot, the switch on the injection pump generates a short circuit and the fuse in the blackbox will broken?
Because the problem is not ever to repeat.
But as next I will all parts test, what you have said.
 
Yes that's the switch , the problem may be unrelated as the blow out fuse supplies all the gauges as well so maybe there is a short circuit somewhere in the loom that's tripping the fuse, I'd make it work and stop start many times to test the stop solenoid.
 
Hi guys
please wait. We had in the last weeks so bad weather. I could not go boating in order to test further.
I will check the following:
- automatic fuse on the blackbox
- rotation relay on the blackbox
- other relay on the blackbox
- solenoid of the compressor (I installed a switch to disconnect compressor)
- switch on the injection pump
- resistance on the blackbox

At the moment I laid a cable from the engine to the cockpit instrument panel and connected it to automatic fuse which was in the blackbox. Now I can see when the fuse pops.

If I have a result, I'll get back.
 
problem found

Many thanks to all people which have answered me with my problem.
Now, I have checked many things.

But all ideas and possible reasons for my problem which I got was not the problem.
It was not
- solenoid of supercharger clutch
- rotational speed relay in the engine black box
- automatic fuse in the engine black box
- Injection pump switch
- etc.

I saw accidently the problem when I moved the throttle lever of port-engine (forward, backward or to idle). The fuse of the engine pops out.
In the throttle lever of port-engine are two cables with each 3 wires installed to move both "power trims".
If I moved the throttle, I got a circuit break. Not ever but often and sometimes when I have had the throttle lever in idle position.

I need now a new "Control lever with trim & tilt function" because separately spare parts of cables are no longer available.
Hope that is the problem and comes never back when I have exchanged the spare part.
 
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