Kad300 stalling

Porto, that's not my understanding. On another thread Volvopaul advised that if the Seafire system was shutting the engine down then the temporary workaround is to pull the the purple wire out of the stop solenoid.

Pete to quote Dennis “ read the posts ...... “
I never mentioned your “ seafire “ .You introduced it and the Op confirmed / answered your query.
What’s “ seafire “ got to do with it ? It did not come from me .Thats your baby Pete with this thread .You own that .

As it’s turns out a loose bat connect ( does not matter which polarity) I conclude I was correct with my assertion of intermittent LOSS of power to the stop solinoid. They normally need power !! - simples !!
The only slip up was I assumed the op had checked all the connections which I reiterated in my final post if you care to re-read that .
Let’s face it bat connects are pretty fundamental.I check mine routinely in every thing that has batts btw .
Was driving a Testarossa in a Waitrose car park U.K.about 20 years ago and went over a speed bump , the damm thing stalled blocking the exit.
Dead .
AA man just reconnected the bat as one lead although looked like was on had bumped up the tapered post and lost sufficient contact to power the 5.0 L 12 cylinders Bosch fuel injection system = engine dies .

School of hard knocks Pete :cool:
I learnt about batts pdq.
 
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Pete to quote Dennis “ read the posts ...... “
I never mentioned your “ seafire “ .You introduced it and the Op confirmed / answered your query.
What’s “ seafire “ got to do with it ? It did not come from me .Thats your baby Pete with this thread .You own that .

Jeez, Porto, you're hard work sometimes! I know the OP hasn't got Seafire, he said that earlier in the thread. However my point (and I did say in a separate thread) is that the Seafire system shuts the engine down by operating the stop solenoid. To stop it doing this, disconnect the purple wire (+) from the stop solenoid. It's the same stop solenoid that will be energized (if that's the correct term) by turning the ignition key into the stop position. So instead of faffing about with ignition barrels the OP could have disconnected the top solenoid to rule out issues of that nature.

As it’s turns out a loose bat connect ( does not matter which polarity) I conclude I was correct with my assertion of intermittent LOSS of power to the stop solinoid. They normally need power !! - simples !!
The only slip up was I assumed the op had checked all the connections which I reiterated in my final post if you care to re-read that .
Let’s face it bat connects are pretty fundamental.I check mine routinely in every thing that has batts btw .
Was driving a Testarossa in a Waitrose car park U.K.about 20 years ago and went over a speed bump , the damm thing stalled blocking the exit.
Dead .
AA man just reconnected the bat as one lead although looked like was on had bumped up the tapered post and lost sufficient contact to power the 5.0 L 12 cylinders Bosch fuel injection system = engine dies .

School of hard knocks Pete :cool:
I learnt about batts pdq.

Yeah but that Testarossa didn't have a diesel engine. If you turn the ignition off on a Testarossa it will stop. If you turn the ignition off on a KAD44 is will keep going albeit with some unpredictable behaviour.
 
I'm fairly sure the stop solenoid signal is via the ECU, not the key switch and with out looking at a wiring diagram it's hard to know if the solenoid is 'energise to run' or 'energise to stop', I've seen both systems on different engines.

Also, a bad battery connection will normally manifest itself whilst cranking, as that is when the highest current demand is.

All just my most humble opinion.
Andy
 
In my experience, it can be very easy to get bogged down in a situation like this.

As you say, swap the ECU's over. If the problem moves then you have your answer. If the problem persists on the same side then stop and go back to basics.

These systems are not that complex. The running is controlled by an ECU which has a series of inputs and a corresponding series of outputs, pre determined by the 'map' programmed in the ECU.

Very often these type of problem are ultimately found to be a basic issue that is not connected with the management system and can be found by good basic diagnostic skills. I've seen a lot of people get carried away assuming the problem is to do with the management side of things.

However, if it is an electronic problem and you can rule out the ECU, then it is either a faulty input sender or switch, a wiring problem or an actuator on the output side of the ECU.

I realise I'm not telling you anything you don't already know, but, again in my humble opinion, when you get stuck press the mental reset button and go back over it again, from the start and never make any assumptions about anything.
Andy
 
Agree.

I have this recently with a Williams - and was lucky enough to be able to swap parts and I had the same issue and lost heart.

In the end it was a temp sensor connection.

These things now have so many connections and sensors it is inviting something to go wrong.

Best of luck
 
Appreciate the support everyone, feel like I have started with the basics, however will go back and start again after ecu swap
 
Well done to the OP for diagnosing the issue. By and large the KAD44/300 is a good engine and I'm sire that you're faith in it will be restored once you've solved tis issue.

The Volvo part will be daft £££

Some on here I beleive have had success using car Ecu repairers. Coastal rides are worth a try for a pre loved one

You beat me to it. Incidentally, does anyone know the part number as I can't find it on the schematics.
 
Thanks guys, spoke to a tech today and said they will try updating the software and see how it goes, otherwise a new one is 4K Aud!!! Regardless now it’s on the port engine I won’t lose my power steering I may leave it till after the Xmas break
 
Thanks guys, spoke to a tech today and said they will try updating the software and see how it goes, otherwise a new one is 4K Aud!!! Regardless now it’s on the port engine I won’t lose my power steering I may leave it till after the Xmas break

I didnt realise you were in Australia so any recommendations on here for places ( other than Coastal Rides who will ship) is probably not much use.

Software updates..... emmmm I have had Range Rover do that for 3 years for a car issue. It is first line of defence and I suspect wont work - it is just a non technical solution.

Google for local ECU repairers. The only thing unique about your unit will be the software - the rest will be one of ac handful of standard ECU cards made by whoever make ECU cards. A Volvo truck place is a good place to start!
 
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