KAD300 dip-stick

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Does the dip-stick go to the bottom of the sump?

ie. am I better off sticking an extractor tube down as far as possible, or making a seal at the top?

This is for extracting the oil, BTW :)
 
Yes , it’s the only point to draw oil from

Paul, what I meant is, does the dip-stick tube go to the bottom of the sump ie. am I better off sticking the extractor tube on top of the tube with a seal around it (therefore the dip-stick tube forms part of the extractor tube), or stick the extractor down the tube and hope I get it to the lowest point? The issue with the electric extractor is that it's VERY flexible and my fear is that it will curl up when it reaches the sump
 
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This bugs me on my kads as you cant get all the oil out via the dipstick tube, it doesn't go to the bottom It has a 90 degree bend at the bottom that no tube or pipe I can find will go around. I was doing my valves back in March and discovered where the oil separator is (below and behind the ECU follow the crank case breather pipe down from the rocker cover)
I think (I haven't tested this yet) if you lift out the oil separator, the exposed hole will allow you to stick a pipe in right to the bottom of the sump and hopefully get it all out.
 
When I had KAD 300 ,s in a boat I never got it all out with a Pele vac thing .
It used to bug me too .9 L max ( 12 ) .
The MAN ,s I have ,have a pump permanently connected to a sump plug positioned ( in a way Germans can only think it through) at the very lowest point near the G box .
Consequently we pump out all 32 L / engine .
This means for the first 10/20 hrs it stays a nice honey glow yellow .
But with the KAD ,s because there was 20 % left it turned black after the first run .
There’s a school of thought in some engine circles of accumulations of sludge , you know the acid bearing dissolving stuff at the bottom of the pan , the very stuff of the raison d etre of doing a lub change in the first place .This is left behind .

To Volvo Penta at least offer a sump pump out option .

Btw with the MAN system you flick a valve and you can drain the g box dry too .Again at the lowest point .
 
N, have a look at this pic -> https://images.app.goo.gl/Fd3rPYGiaJZuBwx36

That tells me that seal around the top of the dipstick tube would be the way to go. That’s the way I do it on my tamd75’s with good results.

Hi, K.

Many thanks, will give this a shot and see how I get on. Now, to make a seal! I'm guessing I need a solid plastic piece, then drill appropriate sized holes in each side (one for the dipstick tube, one for the extractor tube)
 
I have the electric Volvo extractor pump (worth every penny, btw.). The outer diameter on the extractor pump hose is the same as the outer diameter of the mouth of the dip stick tube. I bought a piece of tube with the inner diameter same as the outer diameter of the previous and then just used two jubilee clips to tighten this ‘connector’ at both ends. Hope this makes sense.

Not sure if this is usable in this case though...
 
This bugs me on my kads as you cant get all the oil out via the dipstick tube, it doesn't go to the bottom It has a 90 degree bend at the bottom that no tube or pipe I can find will go around. I was doing my valves back in March and discovered where the oil separator is (below and behind the ECU follow the crank case breather pipe down from the rocker cover)
I think (I haven't tested this yet) if you lift out the oil separator, the exposed hole will allow you to stick a pipe in right to the bottom of the sump and hopefully get it all out.

Your right you can get in there, however, i managed to get more out by sticking the extractor on top of the dipstick tube
 
Hi
Sealing round the top of the dipstick will not create a better suction or vacuum situation. The whole crank case is open to many sources of air, when you think on it.
I’ve always pulled the oil out the dipstick (after running up to temp obviously) then pulled a little more 10 mins later...then poured like half a litre of fresh oil in...sucked that out...then carry on.
 
In case people think this applies to all kad engines - it doesn't.
The kad 32 dipstick tube allows the oil extractor tube to reach the sump pan.

After extracting the oil I also leave the engine to drain down and find the next morning I can get more oil out even if more slowly as its cold. I also pour some fresh oil in and immediately pump that out.
The oil filter housing gets wipe with paper towel.

All a bit over the top but since I don't do it for a living my time is free.
 
How tricky would it be to replace the sump nut (KAD 44) with a tap / hose extension ?
Or that too risky in case it drains it all out when the engine is running ?

You would think it would have occurred to VP to fit such a ting to assist with oil changes. It not like they need to save a couiple of quid .
 
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