Kad Oil filter assemby leak

BruceK

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I recently changed the piston cooling bypass valve on the left below 1; parts 8 7 5 4 and 3 but not 2. All new parts and it is leaking vast amounts of oil past the o-ring (7) and plate (8) while on idle. (steady fast drip) I pulled it all apart in case the o-ring was misaligned in it's seating and destroyed. It wasn't and on inspection it was in good order. I put it all back together carefully while in-situ on the engine block and it leaks even worse now. Bother! Compared all parts to those that were removed including silicon o-rings and exactly the same. Relooked for any damage anywhere and nothing. Still leaks. OK this has to be something extraordinarily simple but I will be damned if I can figure out what it is.
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part 8 is brand new as per above. I did not see any damage to it and as it is brand new that would be fairly conspicuous. The only thing I can think of is as it is a pressed metal part it may be slightly warped....? It's doing my head in for sure because this should be as basic as mechanics can get, and yet here we go.
 
Did you move 2 ? It looks position sensitive.....slots needs correct alignment?

No. VP said to remove them I needed to hammer in a screw driver and twist them out. So I presume they are not location sensitive and no as above those I did not replace as me and hammers near engines are a real liability. I shall replace them next time round once I have removed the oil filter / cooler assembly when I can get a bearing puller in to do it gently before resorting to a hammer. I did not remove it from the engine this year as it is a helluva job that requires a size 50 -60 something spanner (part 21). The only thing I had to remove it previously was a meter long pipe wrench which is nearly as bad as a hammer in my hands.
 
I paid good money for the new parts!! No. I shall tomorrow though. I'm all out of options currently and nothing to lose. It's a right PITA to keep changing as it's buried behind everything , Heat exchanger / supercharger / airbox manifolds etc etc etc. So I was hoping someone may have come across this before and know an answer. I hypothesise that it must be a warp in the stamped end plate. Cheap and nasty part tbh.
 
I do sympathise with your predicament, but if you have suspicions that it may be the new end plate that’s faulty, could you just refit your old one first to see if that is the culprit?
 
The old one is on it's last legs. Mild steel so they rust up which is why I replaced it. Each trial is a 4 hour job on my boat in very awkward positions so yes, as above I will refit old today to prove one way or the other, I was hoping there may be some sort of corroborating experience or a methodology that I have overlooked. As I said, this should be elementary mechanics. O-ring in slot, cap with 2 bolts. Easy peasy and although I hypothesise that the new cap must somehow be warped it's still a stretch of the imagination and I dont hold out much hope that is the problem.
 
Have you measured the length of the spring. The thickness of o ring and if new bolts check the length. Also the thickness of plate as bolts might be to long .
 
Well got the old manky end plate and old o-ring on and leak has stopped completely. I measured and compared the two visually and see no difference or warping. So. The problem was.... magic. All I can think off. Bad juju. I shall run the engine some more and verify but.... the green genie is back in his lamp touch wood.
 
Tim however is desperate to get out. See boaty chat and tie up with him if you can help him out with anchorage etc. I have a root charger issue and need to replace both. Ordering Monday. If both arrive by Friday I will slap them on and catch you Sat HW
 
Post #1 ......is the absence of the word genuine significant in relation to the “ new parts “ description?

They were genuine in as much as they came from Volvo distribution in a Volvo bag and number. Whether they are original manufacturer or new.... ?
 
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