KAD 44 supercharger clutch

[roy851]

Afternoon all, first post on here, looks like there's a wealth of knowledge on here so i'm hoping someone can help. I need to change the supercharger clutch on a kad44 but there is not a lot of room in front of the engine. Are they on splines or taper? I would like to know if i need to take the whole supercharger off and get the pullers on it or whether it will pop on in situ (which would be ideal)

cheers,

G

 

[volvopaul]

Afternoon all, first post on here, looks like there's a wealth of knowledge on here so i'm hoping someone can help. I need to change the supercharger clutch on a kad44 but there is not a lot of room in front of the engine. Are they on splines or taper? I would like to know if i need to take the whole supercharger off and get the pullers on it or whether it will pop on in situ (which would be ideal)

cheers,

G

It’s on a spline the first part undo the 10mm centre bolt , prise off that part .
Next part is the bearing housing, circling pliers , then the magnet , again circled pliers .
Don’t loose the shimms.

 

[roy851]

thanks, got it off no problem and new one shimmed and torqued however the supercharger still won't kick in When i disconnect it and put the meter on the engine side, there is 12v there but there must not be enough current to operate the clutch. Anyone have any ideas on this? thanks

 

[petem]

thanks, got it off no problem and new one shimmed and torqued however the supercharger still won't kick in When i disconnect it and put the meter on the engine side, there is 12v there but there must not be enough current to operate the clutch. Anyone have any ideas on this? thanks

Danaged fuse perhaps?

 

[petem]

Correction, there is 12v present at the supercharger with an open circuit, when you connect the supercharger, it drops to 0 Fuse is intact, pos from fuse to supercharger is ok and neg from supercharger to edc is also fine so it's looking more like a sensor/edc issue possibly????

Sorry, I should have been clearer too. I've heard of fuses appearing to look OK but have hairline cracks etc meaning that they are not able to carry sufficient current. IS there a realy for the S/C? Does all the wiring look good and are all the contacts clean?

 

[Scubadoo]

Double check for a loose connection. I had an electrical fault (not on a boat but a car) and although I had 12Volts but when current was applied it wouldn't power on up, in the end took the wiring loom apart and found a loose joint connector. Just saying maybe be something like that.

 

[DavidJ]

Have you tried putting an independent feed to the disconnected supercharger just to check that it works. The instructions recommend this before you before you do a fire up test anyway ( Of course I didn’t when replacing mine last month)

 

[roy851]

Managed to delete my previous post, doh! So the pos wire from the fuse holder to the supercharger is ok, roughly 2 ohms. Neg from supercharger to ECU is fine, roughly 3 ohms. No route to earth on either cable. Tried a new fuses anyway
Am I right in thinking that the supercharger is controlled by boost sensor and speed sensor. Is there any way of testing the sensors? The manual is proving to be useless

 

[petem]

Managed to delete my previous post, doh! So the pos wire from the fuse holder to the supercharger is ok, roughly 2 ohms. Neg from supercharger to ECU is fine, roughly 3 ohms. No route to earth on either cable. Tried a new fuses anyway
Am I right in thinking that the supercharger is controlled by boost sensor and speed sensor. Is there any way of testing the sensors? The manual is proving to be useless

On the KAD44, the Supercharger should run when you first start the engine and will run until the engine reaches a certain temperature. I guess yours isn't doing this?

 

[roy851]

On the KAD44, the Supercharger should run when you first start the engine and will run until the engine reaches a certain temperature. I guess yours isn't doing this?

No not cutting in at all

 

[Momac]

I guess there is a speed sensor which tells the clutch when to cut in an out? Sorry i don't know where that is on your engine.

 

[roy851]

So it turned out to be the inlet manifold temp sensor. Wouldn't have thought that it would have stopped it working completely but there you go. Hopefully someone else will find this useful in the future

 

[petem]

So it turned out to be the inlet manifold temp sensor. Wouldn't have thought that it would have stopped it working completely but there you go. Hopefully someone else will find this useful in the future

Thanks Roy, I wasn't aware that the inlet temperature would have been a parameter. Incidentally, did you get any Vodia errors?

 

[roy851]

Thanks Roy, I wasn't aware that the inlet temperature would have been a parameter. Incidentally, did you get any Vodia errors?

You an me both! I don't have access to vodia but the local Volvo dealer had been down prior to my visit and there were no faults logged